SHIM DELIMA

[T REXX14]

Looking for a little input here.Thinking about shimming the shock,But just want to know if you add a little more (3-4mm) is it still better than stock?Or do you need to go to 6mm?The reason i'm asking is in some pics i see of bikes there are blocks of wood/shims under sidestand.Just would like to use both stands without the hassle,I would give up a little performance.Or is anyone having that problem?Maybe the bikes i saw were higher than that.

Thanks,

john

[Mekanix]

I went 6mm in the rear shock and also had wood plank issues. It was more like using a 2X6 under the center stand to do chain maintenance and real bad lean when parked on sidestand. What I ended up doing, which you should consider with great caution, is that I moved the front forks up in the triple trees to about 8mm. The fork change is more direct than the geometry involved in the shimming of the rear shock, so it is subtle. I moved up slowly, and I think stock height from the top of the triple tree to the retaining ring is supposed to be 4mm, but don't quote me on that. I have moved it around a little and I don't notice a whole lot of difference in handling by sliding the forks up. Understand that changing steering geometry will cause deadly headshake if you go too far, but I don't know how far is too far and I found that sticking an 8mm between the clip on and the triple tree, tightening the tree clamps and then putting the clip ons down where they belong did not cause head shake and allows the rear tire to spin freely for chain maintenance/ tire pressure checks. Also, lean while parked is diminished.

YMMV

[02XXCA]

Dropping the triples on the fork tubes will do the same thing, but you are loosing ground clearance. There are some who have drug plastics in the past. Unless you are reducing fork angel significantly you don't have to worry about head shake.

[T REXX14]

So is a little better than none?Or should I try a little of both? Just did not want any weird handling traits.

Thanks, john

[Para045]

So is a little better than none?Or should I try a little of both? Just did not want any weird handling traits.

Thanks, john

I have heard of a few people who have gone for just a 3-4mm shim and found some improvement

Just that 6mm seems to be about optimum without causing any unusual handling traits

I did have until recently an 8mm shim on my 98XX with 900RR shock when I was running the Shinko's as they don't turn as quick as the PP front

With the stock forks and springs I never had any problems other than it obviously loaded up the front more under braking with me being 300lb anyway Oh that and the fact I needed ~3/4'' board under the CS to spin the wheel when lubing the chain etc

It did lean quite a bit on the SS but I was never worried it would fall over :icon_think: I tend to use the CS most of the time anyway

I took the extra 2mm out because I thought it was causing the high speed weaving problem since replacing the forks, putting in heavier springs, lighter oil and tapered head bearings and dropping the triples on the forks :icon_think:

I have since gone back to the stock fork height, 6mm shim and done a lot of testing and I seem to have narrowed the weaving down to the SHB's :icon_think:

I would put the 3mm in if you want it is easy enough to go more or take them out

[jon haney]

So is a little better than none?Or should I try a little of both? Just did not want any weird handling traits.

Thanks, john

Three mm won't give you any weird handling traits. I have about 3mm on mine and thought it was a noticeable improvement.

I also dropped the front about 4mm. The lap times at my last track day were quite a bit better, so that proved to me that it was an improvement.

One other thing: If your inseam is less than 34 inches, I doubt you would like the 6mm shim. Seat is too tall.

[T REXX14]

Thanks for the info guys!Just thought I'd hit up the pros here!It's been awhile since i rode a big bore on the street and don't quite have the confidence that I once had to push it.Just need a little more seat time!Raising a family will do that to ya!So the better i can get my set-up out of the box the better off I am.Think I will try the 3 in rear and - some in front.

Thanks again,

John

[rockmeupto125]

Okay, more history.

Our brothers in old blighty started this shim thing a very long time ago, and did a lot of experimentation with it before coming to the conclusion that that more than 6mm made the bike a bit twitchy, and required a lot more serious attention to navigate...which is why the standard became 6mm rather than 4 or 8.

Dropping the fork tubes will alter the suspension/steering geometry in a different fashion....its not quite the same. Do so with extreme caution, and I don't recommend it. The front gets squirrely real fast.

[John01XX]

Okay, more history.

Our brothers in old blighty started this shim thing a very long time ago, and did a lot of experimentation with it before coming to the conclusion that that more than 6mm made the bike a bit twitchy, and required a lot more serious attention to navigate...which is why the standard became 6mm rather than 4 or 8.

Dropping the fork tubes will alter the suspension/steering geometry in a different fashion....its not quite the same. Do so with extreme caution, and I don't recommend it. The front gets squirrely real fast.

+1

I wasn't going to say anything since I sell the 6mm shim myself

I now supply Jaws and most of Europe with the aluminum shims as well.

They are actually not exactly 6mm but rather 5.6mm due to the thickness that aluminum is normally manufactured.

According to the Blokes overseas, " Do not alter the front height and raise the rear by 5-6mm for optimum handling."

[rockmeupto125]

I wasn't going to say anything since I sell the 6mm shim myself

All the more reason to say something, John. As the seller, what sets you apart from others is that you know what you're selling, how it works, and what it does. Don't waste that.

[T REXX14]

Thanks for the knowlage rockme and john.Back my basic deliema is the stands versus performace.Will it help at all with 3-4 mm in shock even if i dont change forks?I want my side stand even though i mainly use center.What is your personal opinion?

Thanks again,

John

[Toynut]

When I installed the rear aftermarket shock with the height adjusted for the increased lift and a pair of Traxxion cartridge forks, I found that the front end of my bike had lifted substantially higher relative to stock which led to sluggish handling. I read that Hyperpro had suggested raising the tubes approximately 10mm from their stock setting to accomodate the stiffer springs altering the stock ride geometry. I raised my fork tubes in the uppers about 10mm as well. In the 500 miles or so of testing, at both low and high speeds, the bike handles as great as ever, and turn in has greatly improved! YMMV, but, at least in my case, this approach seemed to have corrected a problem. BTW, It also reduced the side stand lean angle a bit. These picture show the difference between my Traxxion equipped '03 bird on the right, and my 0 mile, bone stock, spare '03 on the left (viewed from the front).

[rockmeupto125]

Thanks for the knowlage rockme and john.Back my basic deliema is the stands versus performace.Will it help at all with 3-4 mm in shock even if i dont change forks?I want my side stand even though i mainly use center.What is your personal opinion?

Thanks again,

John

Yes it will.

Don't get me wrong. My shock is adjusted to raise the rear and the front is slightly dropped. I just don't recommend anyone else drop the front because I've seen differing handling traits with such activity. I also have 1.06 springs on revalved forks that helps keep the fairings off the ground, as well as a steering damper to overide the twitchiness...by the way, the twitchiness I mentioned that occured with dropping the front is more evident at lower speeds than higher speeds. (think weird handling in town with very sharp turn in)

[Para045]

I also have 1.06 springs on revalved forks that helps keep the fairings off the ground, as well as a steering damper to override the twitchiness...by the way, the twitchiness I mentioned that occurred with dropping the front is more evident at lower speeds than higher speeds. (think weird handling in town with very sharp turn in)

+1 I had similar when I recently replaced my forks with 04 ones raised 5mm in the triples (lower front), 1.2kg/mm springs, 5w oil, new TSH Bearings, new PP front and PR2 rear tyres and an 8mm shim

The bike seemed to tip in extremely quick at lower speeds and became more neutral at higher speeds

I got sort of used to it after a while but moved the forks back to stock height and removed the 2mm extra shim and reduced front spring preload trying to get rid of a weave at around 180-200kmh

None of that worked so I think it is SH Bearing preload related and will fiddle with that and if that sorts it I will look at putting the 2mm back in or dropping the front again

Most likely drop the front so that I can spin the back wheel when on the CS without putting a board under it

I also have a steering damper but left it off for a couple of 100 km to see whether there was any difference and the only one was it was slightly more twitchy after landing a wheelie without it

PS I wouldn't worry about the lean on the SS, it is more but I never felt like it would fall over even with 8mm shim :icon_think:

[Dutch]

My 03 was shimmed 6mm and otherwise stock. The handling was noticeably better. Turn in felt closer to my old R1 than my original 97 XX. It did lean a little heavily on the sidestand but never enough to worry me. When it was up on the centerstand all I did was lift it onto a 1/8" piece of plywood so the rear tire would clear enough to rotate.