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MrBadExxample

Camshaft Installation Questions

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I'm in the middle of a valve adjustment procedure. Specifically, I'm in the phase where you wait for shims to arrive, since my local Honda dealer apparently has no room to keep valve shims in stock. I digress.....

Anyhow the intake valve clearances were all within spec, actually the intake valve clearances were all identical and right in the middle of the range. This is on a 49K mile 97 XX. I love you Honda.

However half the exhaust valves were too tight, so I removed the exhaust camshaft. Once the shims arrive I'll install it. I have a couple questions about the installation:

1. How the heck does one view the alignment marks on the intake camshaft? There's this thing called a "frame" that's in the way. Using my dental mirror I can view the sprocket's reflection, but I'd prefer to view it directly. Removing some engine mounts and tilting the engine forward seems the only viable alternative. Cutting a viewport in the frame didn't seem like a good idea. I suppose I'll just trust the reflection in the mirror. Has anyone done the engine tilt?

2. I assume locking the CCT rod is to prevent the camchain/crankshaft/camshafts from moving. Locking down the CCT rod increases the tension on the cam chain, correct?

3. But, if the tension on the cam chain is maxed (via locking the CCT rod) how does one get the camchain back on the camshaft sprocket and/or the sprocket back on the installed camshaft. The tension on the camchain will make this awfully tough. I was think the tension on the cam chain needs to be relieved to be installed and then reapplied. Perhaps by removing the CCT, then installing the camchain on the sprocket and the sprocket on the camshaft.

I have the OEM manual, but it doesn't offer muich in the way of camshaft installation techniques.

Thank You In Advance.....

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I thought by turning the CCT (lifter) clockwise, per the manual you take tension off the chain?? I have an extra CCT at home and can check it when I get home from work.

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Might be some helpful stuff here.

And yes, I do believe the idea is to take the tension out of the cam chain, not the reverse. Otherwise how would you get it apart or back together? All those timing marks are there to make sure it goes back together as before, no need to keep the chain tight and in place.

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Might be some helpful stuff here.

And yes, I do believe the idea is to take the tension out of the cam chain, not the reverse. Otherwise how would you get it apart or back together? All those timing marks are there to make sure it goes back together as before, no need to keep the chain tight and in place.

Tim, don't ever get rid of that gallery.

I see you marked the inward side of the intake camshaft, that makes sense. I'm gonna do that too.

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Tensioner goes last,period.

Basically it goes like that

Park crankshaft so cylinders 1 nad 4 are at TDC ( there is a timing mark of ignition trigger wheel and its cover ).Side note.Becouse those marks are on such a small radious you`ll never get cylinders right at TDC without degree wheel and positive cylinder stopper,but it might be good enough.

Install exhaust camshaft with sprocket where they suppose to be, ( timing marks) put the chain over a EX sprocket in such a way that all the slack between crankshaft and EX sprocket is taken out.

Install IN cam with sprocket in right position ( marks again), and put chain over intake sprocket so there is no slack between Ex and In.You might have to remove intake sprocket from the cam in order to do it.

Install tensioner with rod backed all the way in and locked with the tool.Once is bolted to the engine block ,tool needs to be removed.

Now engine needs to be turned over clockwise( when you look from the right side),make sure that chain won`t jump over cam sprockets,use your hand or install that little guide that goes between In and Ex cam boxes.Tensioner will take a slack away,you`ll hear the "snap".

Crank the engine few times( by hand of course) ,check timing marks on the crank,In cam and EX cam.They have to right.

You can use ignition rotor bolt to spin the motor,I think it is 17 mm,removing spark plugs helps.

I agree,those timing marks on cam sprockets are PITA to see.When I degreed my cams,motor was lowered on rear bottom bolt.

Just becouse your valve clearance was O.K.( well at least on IN valves) don`t assume your valves and valve seats are in a good shape.

You might wanna check out "94 k miles cylinder head tear down" tread.

BTW how tight were yor Ex valves,do you have Honda`s workshop manual or just O.E.M. piece ?,,,,,,,,

You have to be totally sure everything is right or you`ll bend valves.

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Well...I've never done the cams on a bird before but I'm guessing they are like many other shim under bucket setups... I always ziptie the chain to the gears before loosening the cams to make the valve adjustment. This allows me to put everything back in place without messing with the timing. Then just cut the zipties off when finished....make sure you don't drop them into the engine...ok.

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Well...I've never done the cams on a bird before but I'm guessing they are like many other shim under bucket setups... I always ziptie the chain to the gears before loosening the cams to make the valve adjustment. This allows me to put everything back in place without messing with the timing. Then just cut the zipties off when finished....make sure you don't drop them into the engine...ok.

Robin, I've never done cam work on a bike engine that was still in the vehicle, just on a bench. This might not be a valid concern with some engines. But with your procedure I would be concerned that the chain might get loose and move a tooth on the crankshaft. So I would be very careful to check the timing afterwards.

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