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CBR1100XX.org Forum


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none last won the day on January 4 2017

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  • Birthday 01/01/1974

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  1. My previous XX was a 98 model, with jetting to match the 4-into-1 Erion exhaust, temp gauge rarely got above 2/3 up, never seen it running into the red even in NYC gridlock traffic inside the Holland Tunnel where air temp can easily reach above 40C. My current XX is a 2003 FI model, near OEM equipment other than aftermarket grips. Digital temp regularly indicate above 210, hot summer days fan comes on while waiting for red light to turn green regularly, but I never see the digit display getting above 230. Normal cruising temp is about 190-200. I have not gotten stuck in the Holland Tunnel yet.. but likely will next year. The 2000 model VFR800 and 2006 CBR600F4i that I have tends to run much cooler than the 2003 XX, both of them rarely gets above 210 on digital display.. even in hot summer and slow moving traffic pattern. Regular cruising temp is about 170-190. My 2002 Superhawk was also a cool running machine.. temp gauge rarely gets above 1/2 way up... maybe the jetting and Jardine exhaust help with the flow of hot air.
  2. none

    09 Ninja 250

    My Ninja 250 is a 04 model, I bought it for $800 back in 2010 with 4k miles on odometer. The PO had it sitting outdoors without cover for nearly 2 yrs. Idled rough, lots of surging in low (under 5k) rpm, above 7k rpm was better. Pre-gen Ninja 250 are tuned pretty well with OEM parts, taking the carb apart isn't necessary, IMO. I empty the tank, put minimal amount of fresh fuel and Seafoam mix, new sparkplugs and ran the piss out of it for 20-30 miles then repeat the process for the next 2 tanks of fuel.. and the idle just got batter and better. OEM jetting with 2 clip up from OEM setting, OEM chrome exhaust/air filter.. runs like a champ. I put a taller windscreen for winter, taller profile rear tire for lower engine rpm at high speed operation. Now at 18k mi. on odometer, it's my fav. commuter in traffic between Manhattan & Brooklyn... Sustained 85-90 mph; 11k rpm operation on the NJ/PA Trnpk between Philly and NYC.. not bad for $800.
  3. Depends on how much aggressive riding are you willing to get into. If there is enough tread, i'd just ride (conservatively) the tire until the tread runs out, make sure you allow plenty of warm up before you lean into turns.
  4. Since car tires are designed to be use with vehicle with more weight (and generate great forces), softer compound of ice/winter car tire would be better suited for moto application than regular car tire, does that make sense? I've ridden over 16k miles with a car tire mounted on the rear wheel of a Burgman 650, I feel that the handling issues while vehicle transition between the car tire leaning during turns can be deal with practice, just like any new tire mounted on a 2-wheel vehicle. Operator need to get used to the handling character of any new tire, feel for the limits and allow tire to "scrub-in". Plenty of 2-wheel vehicles such as Goldwings, FJR1300, Triumph Rocket III, heavyweights with high torque and HP output are know to use car tire on the rear wheel for better mileage between tire changes, more solid highway handling and more contact patch at nearly all vehicle lean conditions. Just because tire manufacturers do not "recommend" the application, doesn't mean that car tire usage is dangerous for all application on motorcycles. People have turbos, superchargers, track tires, non-DOT (off-road) tires mounted on bikes, or even tow trailers all the time, accident rate is no more than regular moto-specific tire mounted bikes. It is up to the operator to consider the application and riding style for their vehicles. I have heard of Iron Butt rider on XX riding with a car tire mounted on the rear wheel, but can't seem to find any pics.
  5. This is a motorcycle forum, discussing car tire directions, how is my post unrelated to OP? Your post do nothing more than calling names and insults; making judgement on topic you have no experience with.
  6. blind? pretty darn fast for off-road riding. Here's a google..
  7. I want to put one of those winter/ice tire on the rear wheel of my XX.. FJR1300 w/car tire carving through CA canyons.
  8. I bought a $2.00 rubber O-ring from local hardware store, plumbing section.. rider control the throttle on or off, 100%, that's real throttle control.. none of that auto return/close throttle.
  9. I've converted many dual exhaust system motorcycles to single-sided exhaust systems, never once I've heard of anyone concerned about balancing the exhaust can weight after the conversions. Personally, I like loosing about 13 lb. from the XX's OEM dual exhaust system. Do not assume that all aftermarket exhaust systems are "look-at-me-and-my-loud-exhaust". Besides, I wear earplugs every time I ride my XX, just to protect my ears from the loud wind noise at XX's travel speed. I do not have the OEM exhaust, but one can likely find them rather easily.
  10. I don't like to put holes on hot pavement. XX is a heavy bike. From the shadows in the pictures, you could tell they were taken mid-day, when it is hot.
  11. 1998 Honda CBR1100XX Blackbird $3750 located in ZIP 19468 18,6xx mi., never been down. Honda VFR800 handlebar conversion, Laminar lip, K&N air fitter, Dynojet Stage 1 jet kit, Erion 4-into-1 full exhaust, bike is tuned to perfection, runs better than FI models. Valve check, throttle sync, front and rear brake pads/fluid change, chain and sprockets all performed at 16,000 mi. Front tire 90%, rear tire at 75%. Bike needs nothing, ready to ride anywhere. Clean PA title in hand ready for transfer. Price is more than fair, email me with you name & phone number, then I will contact you directly at my earliest convenience.
  12. Looking to purchase a front wheel for my 98 CBR1100XX, with or without rotors, preferably stock paint, must be round and true. Please send PM with email contact info and pricing.
  13. On my old 1987 BMW K75, the front brakes used to squeal no matter how clean the replacement pads/calipers are. There have been suggestions to apply rubber type paint to the back of the new brake pads to dampen the vibration of the pads in order to reduce the noise when brakes are applied. I've never tried it, I figure the noise is good so I know they are working.
  14. I think you need bigger "paddles" for the rear.
  15. Pull the plugs and take a look.. I changed mine at 16k mi. while checking the valves..
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