kevinskii

I agree, it seems that the culprit is the bank angle sensor or the kickstand sensor. Since you still had lights and indicators when it cut out, I can't think of anything else offhand that would prevent the engine from even cranking. It would probably be worthwhile to try idling the bike for a while to see if you can reproduce it. You'll want to have a multimeter ready so you can take readings on both sensors when it happens.

When it cuts out, do you lose all electrical (lights, dash, etc.) before you cycle the key?

I used it recently for something similar, and I would have had better luck binding the parts with my own dried turd. Have a looky here.

Heh. Mine's on its way back to Apple. The iPad may not be far behind it.

Jesus Christ, is there anyone on this forum who doesn't have a broken fairing bracket? And here I thought I was special.

That's how mine is right now. Thanks for the advice. I'll probably just leave it alone. It's one less thing that will break the next time I crash.

You're right, it's on the pan, not the engine block. Thanks. I wasn't looking closely enough. It's nice to know that I can pull it off if some of the JB Weld alternatives suggested here don't work.

When I low-sided the XX a few months ago, the bracket mount for the lower cowl broke off the engine block. This isn't a stress-bearing part, so I thought JB Weld would make an ideal fix. Unfortunately it keeps breaking under the slightest pressure. I've tried setting it three different times, and I'm pretty sure I'm doing everything properly. Has anyone had better luck with another brand of off-the-shelf epoxy?

What happens when you try giving it a bit of gas while letting out the clutch? I know it sounds stupid, but everything you describe seems to indicate that the idle speed may simply be set a bit too low.

Make sure you tightened the terminal screws enough when you put in the new battery. Seriously, the same thing just happened to a friend. His battery died on the freeway due to the terminals being loose. And like Mike said, completely remove the PCII from the system and ride with the stock computer for the first couple of weeks.

I agree that it's a crappy law, but a '97 bird should still be able to meet the emission standards for newer vehicles. I'd be surprised if you learn otherwise. Please let us know.

103C ~= 217F, which is very close to what my '02 bird stays at while idling with the fan running. It sounds like you're fine.

Another possibility is that if you recently fiddled with your idle speed adjustment knob, the set screw may have gotten detached from the wax unit. This would cause the bike to run normally during cold idle, and then die as soon as the computer switches over to warm idle.

Holy crap. This thread is still going? Cool. Way to go, "Punisher."

It's a counterintuitive pain in the ass the first time you use it, isn't it? Hopefully my recent experience will be somewhat helpful: Yes, that's correct. Make sure it's there. It's very easy for it to fall on the floor when you're not looking. This happened to me, and I accidentally pushed the pin through the back and destroyed the master link. Yes. Make sure it's all the way to the stop. In one of your later posts, you attached a photo from webbikeworld where it is backed off an inch or two. I'm pretty sure this is wrong. I initially tried to do it this way, and I was having a heck of a time trying to flare the rivet because all of my energy was going into bending the rivet pin. Yup. I'm pretty sure I held 'A' while tightening 'B'. I personally found it much easier to do when it was on the rear sprocket. Hopefully my own dumb mistakes will save you some grief. Have a great weekend! Kevin