Zero Knievel

Good luck finding a new guy. A trustworthy mechanic is worth his weight in gold, and finding one is the hardest challenge. So many out there either don't know what they are doing or don't care, and if they bugger things up, try and prove it's their fault.

Agreed. I thought it was interesting how the different weights of oil for different weight riders worked out...and it makes some sense. If you're a light person, you'd probably find the stock suspension too stiff. If you're "husky" you might be happy with stock or need stiffer, and wear would be more noticeable because of your weight. I'm doing the forks and putting in stronger springs because there is too much dive in the front end now, and that was the likely sign that the fork job was overdue...I don't remember it diving so harshly when I first got the bike.

From another board while looking for information...an interesting FYI on springs and oil viscosities.

Is there a difference in using 5w vs. 10w?

If I missed it, I apologize, but what brand and weight of oil for the forks is recommended? How much should I get to do the job?

If Honda makes them like Kawasaki does (and I hope everyone else), when it goes it starts weeping fluid (a slow but steady drip you can't miss). Of course, last time my Kawasaki pump went, it lost a lot of fluid in a short period of time from a "weep" through that tiny hole. :icon_wall:

Still have some wiggle room. Frankly, as FUBAR as the wiring setup is (you'd think there'd be a discrete way to route it), you can just cannibalize the stock lights to make them shorter. That's what I eventually did.

You need the adapter kit for your bike. The wingrack has 4 basic connection points. Two high, two low. The low ones should connect to where your exhaust pipes bolt onto the pillion. The higher ones (on the XX) connect onto where the rear grab handle is behind the seat. You get 4 connection pieces designed to fit the XX. Bolts are included,but I replaced the 4 bolts for the top part with cap screws and locking nuts so they wouldn't work loose. IIRC (not at home), there are two hex bolts (rounded heads) for the lower connector to the exhaust mounts (you replace the stock bolts. I think for each side there are two washers and a locking nut. Appropriate bolts for attaching to the wingrack (cap screws and locking nuts IIRC). Upper side uses two bolts for connecting the adapter to the wingrack (each side) and the two cap screws for the grab handle also includes two spacers so the bracket doesn't directly touch the handle. I suggest getting longer screws and locking nuts because to put enough tension on the screws so they can't work loose, you are going to be putting a lot of pressure on the grab handle and crack the rear cowl (that's what happened to me). With the longer screws and locking nut, you do more work to put it on, but you only have to make it snug...the nut will ensure it won't come loose. I'll try and remember to search my stuff at home for the parts sheet. Screw it....found the PDF on Givi USA's web site. y158.pdf

Are you talking about the wingrack system itself or the adapter kit that makes it fit your bike? The above diagram should have come with your kit.

Love your avatar...BTW.

What's wrong about not knowing the temperature of your swingarm nut?

I'm interested. Can't tell from the thread if you sold it already. PM sent.

Amateur. I take 14-18 day trips.

Never mind. I found a dealership in NC that had the parts at about as good a price as Autozone has them, but they had the correct part numbers and free shipping.

1998 Mazda B3000 V6 2WD. The key issue here is that Ford/Mazda (B series made by Ford), did a digital update to the parts directory and accidentally cut/paste the wrong info into most everyone's database. Last time I had to deal with this, my dad hunted down a Mazda dealership where the parts department saved one of the hard copies of the parts list with the correct numbers for the parts. I gotta replace all the ball joints in my front suspension. This year's model has the uppers incorporated into the upper control arms, so the whole component must be replaced. I know what Mazda wants for parts, but I'm hoping other places have them for less. Below are Mazda's/Ford's part numbers. Upper R/H (passenger side) Control Arm - P/N ZZP1-34-211A Upper L/H (driver side) Control Arm - P/N ZZP1-35-211A Lower Control Arm Ball Joints - P/N ZZP1-34-550 If someone else carries these, I'd like to know if their part number in case the clerk I deal with isn't too bright about finding it in their system based on the OEM part numbers.

I don't know if it's possible to put a caliper on wrong, but if the bike's been down or one of the fork tubes isn't aligned correctly, I suppose it's possible to FUBAR the mounting alignment. A tube being even a fraction of an inch different in the clamps would angle the rotor relative to the caliper. To check your rotors (if a warp or cup isn't obvious), dismount the tire and lay something you know is rigid and straight against the rotor. The difference should then be obvious.

My guess.... 1. Caliper is not on striaght, causing part of the pad to always make contact. 2. Disc is bent, cupped, warped. Only my guess, but it's what I'd double-check. Your old pads would have worn to fit the misalignment/defect.

I would tend to agree, but I'm amazed how SMALL the 36L ones are when I pack for a big trip (which I tend to take). To be fair, I've learned to pack a lot less with each successive trip, but then I find ways to use the extra space for stuff I tend to run out of (like clean, dry boot socks) because I eliminated one thing to make room for another. Yeah, they make the bike look like a tank, but I'm shameless when I'm touring. If I took more local/weekend trips, I'd find the smaller cases a better deal, but for my first purchase I wanted maximum storage space. Heck, I pack my tool bag, an air pump (electric), and some other necessities...just in case, and that takes about 3/4 of one case alone (ironically, if something goes wrong, I always seem to still lack the one item I need). Also, at rallies, I leave the two side cases in the room and shuffle stuff about in my top case (same size), so on the group ride, I have all "absolute daily essentials" in one case.

My cases are E45. I can't imagine going SMALLER than those. Even the one I use as a top case tends to be packed full.

I think I recently passed 65K.

I'll think about it. Look like the ones I have and I rashed one on my last trip. Can't hurt to have spares (and they make great luggage for other trips too).

If you're fabrication savvy, why not ask someone who has theirs apart to just trace you a template and you fabricate something out of a plastic sheet of adequate thickness?

+1 Not being mean or anything, but people I know who do track will tell you to master the stock machine before doing serious work modifying the motor. Tweaking the suspension to match your weight and maybe a PowerCommander so you can tune the EFI for optimal power is all you should do until you've reached the limit of your riding abilities. Anybody can go fast in a straight line. Farkling the motor for more HP is (IMHO) stupidity because it has little value in the curves. The XX is almost overpowered for wailing on the curves compared to some other bikes out there.

They sent me a photo and description. All the parts match. They count lines literally. So if one assembly has two lines going from hard point to hard point, they count each of them. I was expecting 11 lines (10 brake - 1 clutch). I got 9 (8 brake - 1 clutch).

I got my HEL lines today. I ordered the brake kit and the clutch line. Sadly, whoever put the package together did a sloppy job. While it was sealed, parts went everywhere because nothing stayed closed up. There is no packing list, so I need confirmation on what should have been shipped. I have the following accounted for: 1 - Line marked "clutch" 1 - Line marked "A" 1 - Line marked "B" 6 - Lines of various sizes and configurations 3 - Bolts, long 12 - Bolts, short 33 - Washers, copper I am concerned as I believe the brake system on an XX (based on HEL's own website) said there were 10/11 lines for the brakes and 1 for the clutch. I have a total of 9 lines in this kit which leaves 1-3 unaccounted for. I'm e-mailing HEL to see what's up.