TitaniumBird

That's the one! http://bikebits.us/cct-lifter-set-p56.html

@XXBlackbird Cam chain tensioner, expense to replace a think there's an aftermarket one if you search the forum. Easy fix and it's one of the only things that ever go wrong with this bike. The other is the test plug on the wiring harness if you have or have your FI light stay on.

Thanks for the pointer, I ordered a complete salvaged right bar that included the instrument cluster, lever, throttle cables etc. off a 2002. 35. bux with shipping, not bad!

More testing today. I was able to jump the connections where the relay is and had the high beam on so I knew at least one light was good and connection there to. The only thing between the relay and power is the starter switch. I started fiddling with that (which I had done before but not to this extent) and if I push it in slightly and wiggling it up and down I can find a good spot where both headlights come on. What a weird coinkydink that that switch chose to go bad while the fuse was out. So it looks like I'm in for a switch. Does anyone know, do I have to replace the whole cluster or do they just sell the bottom half with the starter switch only?

I guess that's the next step, I just didn't want to take the dash apart again. Just doesn't make sense how they could both go at the same time being separate units and all...

Yeah, I reached up behind the lights and felt around, seemed like everything was intact, nothing loose. They're only 2 years old. Just odd that things would quit working for running without the fuse, they shouldn't have had any power for that ride home. Very strange.

Okay, here's a riddle. I've been getting intermittent charging issues when it warms up it seems to not charge so well. On the way home, sitting in traffic my fan kicked on and killed me dead, ZERO power. I got a jump from some guy in a pickup that didn't know how to use jumper cables, that's a whole other story... Needless to say (oh and I have an HID kit, both hi and lo) i pull the headlight fuse to save power if she's not charging and break all kinds of laws to not sit in traffic any more on the way home. I go in the garage the next day, put the headlight fuse back in and no lights, not hi, not lo, nothing. I checked the fuse and it's good and the fuse block gets power. I pulled the relay, don't know how to check it, the one terminal has crazy high voltage. Anyone have info on how to check the relay or any suspects as to what the issue might be? Other than the nut that's loose behind the handle bars that is. Edit: 2000 bird, brand new gel battery, I'm pretty sure the charging issue is a loose connection somewhere, it's charging now when I have the test meter on it. Replaced the stator and did the R1 regulator on it summer before last. HID setup has given no trouble till now. Double checked / worked the switch a couple dozen times, not even a flicker of headlight. Thanks!

my vote is for the loom fix, I've seen where it doesn't trip the FI light, it ties into so much, can cause all sorts of gremlins.

I'm glad to see it's nothing to worry about, I've been obsessing about it the latter half of this summer hearing only that and nothing else. Sadly it's easier to hear when you wear ear plugs, I think that exaggerates it... hehe I just changed my oil today after 1500 miles on the synthetic and threw some traditional 20/50 in there to see if it would make a difference. Didn't do a damn thing to quiet the knock when it gets hot. So, we have it, it's not a threat, I'd still love to know what in the hell it is...

There is also a little set screw in the side of the rear shock body, at the bottom, accessible from the left side (from rider position) with a long straight screw driver. This allows you to adjust the rebound damping, it might have been setup extra firm for the bags, now that they're off, you're not getting the movement you'd expect.

Why doesn't someone move this into the " important & usefull threads section". IIRC, there's a similar thread already in there... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=276 Mike I saw that thread, someone just needs to open it up and add my post then, there are no part numbers on that thread... Seems to be exceedingly hard to find the part no when I was searching.

+1 2000 wiring loom - I just did mine, sounds very similar and after doing it, basically the whole bike grounds in those dozen or so wires, anything can happen. It was classic when I was wiggling mine while it was running, the bad connections would make the whole system go just ape shit. Lights flickering blinkers coming on / off, stuttering engine etc...

You gonna die man. A three wheeler, with this engine would be just plain fucking crazy. My thought when I read your post was a 6 wheeler, ATV, one of those deals that goes in the water, 6 big balloon tires, have this engine running two big heavy duty hydrostatic pumps to drive the wheel/tracks... mmmm

Man, you guys are on it. hehe I've never thought about preventive maint. Well, I guess I do, but I loath admitting something is just due and rush to do it. lol I can only imagine, in theory anyway, that throwing a new, efficient R/R on might even prolong the life of your stator. Either that or it'll have the opposite affect and everything else will be the weak point and fail. Honestly, I don't know, and... well I'm pretty loaded writing this. LOL Anyway, I guess it depends on how the machine was treated, mine gets wet a lot and I run the shit out of it on back roads every day. hehe 40K and it's starting to feel a little loose, maybe I'm just itching for a new ride, it is 8 years old after all. I wouldn't want to sell it though, it's been too good, and well, it's just too nice to sell.

Yamaha R1 Part number I just installed, fits 99/00 R1, 4JH-81960-01-00 I installed on my 2000 XX Should also work on 99 at very least, not sure about the other years. I know the OEM honda R/R changed after 00, 01 is supposed to be beefier and have a different mounting position (other side of the bike) Found this on our site after much digging but searching for stuff around the R/R business is tedious, there is so much, such a problem for the 99/00 bird. http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html I cut the plugs off my OEM R/R, ran the 2 reds together, 2 greens together and soldered to butt connectors. Green is positive, Red is negative and they don't need to be seperate. The black wire is for headlight cancel for starting on the FI birds, doesn't help/hurt to leave it behind, be sure to terminate it. Three yellows for the stator, soldered butt connectors. Shrink tubing on all the wires, up close to the connectors. 1 giant wad of black tape and voila! You're happy. All said and done, she's now making 13.8 volts at 5000 rpm on the battery. I hope it's over, this is finally done after going through TWO piece of SHIT R/R's from electrosport, don't waste your time and money with them. Not to mention they're a pain in the ass on the phone and I have yet to get my money back, they keep trying to send me more junk R/R's.

So far no more fuses (knocks wood), must have been the damned R/R, I'm glad I didn't send back the electrosport... NEXXT, lets GO!

Trust me, I don't want to be down for any amount of time in this weather, I'm in love with this bike all over again this summer, it's been like a rebirth, even though I never really stopped... But still. LOL Anyway, I stripped all the tuperware and put the R/R I had on the shelf in. It was testing 14.7 steady on the battery through all RPM range, then I let it get good and hot and did it again and it was steady around 15.2... My get tells me it's bad and building up till the damn breaks and letting go of serious voltage. The new on is on and it's 13.7 steady, we'll see how that goes, and I left the bags off till I'm sure it's not going to go on me again.

So, out on a ride tonight and blew through two headlight fuses before realizing it was happening when I was tearing ass. When I run the RPM's up fairly good, it's blowing the headlight fuse in a hot second. Not only did that majorly SUCK, It was also pitch dark, roaring out of a wooded intersection, the blinkers make nice light... Anyway, WTF, I just replaced the R/R and stator... Anyone wanna bet on the gremlin? I'm thinking R/R but why just the headlight? Kevin

I have the rear section of the wiring harness off of my old 2000 if anyone would like to have. It might be good for practice or spare connectors but was replaced due to the efi light staying on. If no one speaks up it's going in the trash soon. Are you going to be doing away with your ECU? I know someone looking for one of those.

Well, my 2000 bird has been fixed, big warm thanks to jblackbird2000 for the electrical debug session and convincing me to take a razor blade to my wiring harness. Thanks to the post describing the loom fix in detail, I have to say, anyone with a 99-00 bird should seriously think about the permanent fix. link Lastly, my picture (albeit fuzzy) of the loom fix (the soldering fix) to my 2000 bird. My bike had been suffering the symptoms of the loom issue over the course of a few years, FI light flickering, high beam causing FI light to come on, turn signals with FI light, fan kicking on would cause the whole thing to run like shit.

I know the read e-brake on my toyota has another little set of drum brakes inside the hub of the rotor (rear disk brakes) if that makes sense. technically, three sets of brakes, likely never need to replace the shoes for the e-brake unless you drag it or USE it in a real emergency.

Take it out and open it up. I don't think you're supposed to be putting your nose in there though anyway.

That's damned good to know, sneaky bastards. I'm sure I would have put a pipe on my C-clamp and broke it or the caliper or "something".

Ahhh yes, this looks like your typical smooted stator. Edit: Is this picture big enough, nuff detail?

It's usually a good idea to extend the piston as far as you can and steel wool off any shit that's collected. That really helps the life of your calipers. After that, reach for the biggest C clamp you have and a couple hunks of wood, so you don't mar the edges of the piston or the outside of your caliper (unless you don't care. Then just wind it in till you have nuff to get your new pads on and you're golden.