poida

(To clarify, noise only when the clutch lever is pulled in, regardless of whether the bike is moving, in gear or not.... Pull the clutch lever in and it squeals...release the lever and the squeal stops? Yes?) thats it exactly, if it was in a car i would pick it being a thrust bearing,but ive never had much to do with bike clutches. didnt make it to newport rhode island.very pretty up that way but the amount of cops with radars i encountered was crazy,and such low speed limits.i was even finding them on little back roads.could have gotten very expensive for me so i bailed haha.

gday hank ,been well thanks mate,.how are you and leslie doing? my usa trip was great and a real eye opener.i intend heading back in the future,there is so much more to see there .planning on riding across australia next year to spend a few weeks riding around tasmania. Is it a big job to replace the bearing or is it pretty straight forward. the bike has just under 270 thousand klms on it and it is still on the original clutch. the noise is there while sitting still and when coasting,in gear and in neutral.

the clutch on my 99 bird has just starting making a high pitched squeal when the lever is pulled in.has anyone got an idea what might be causing it ?. i replaced chain and sprockets on saturday and its been running fine up until this afternoon. rode home from work and as i was coasting down my driveway with the clutch in i could hear a high pitched noise.clutch out no noise,clutch in and it squeals.clutch dosnt slip when riding.

it might not need plugs depending on what they look like.its not that hard to pull them using the plug spanner that comes with the bikes toolkit.tank off or propped back out of the way,airbox out and theres more than enough room to access them.

Have you pulled the spark plugs yet ? the colour of the electrode might tell you if its electrical or fuel.also check the plug caps for splits.

make sure the wires going to the coils arnt lose,not the plug leads but the thin wires.had mine drop to 2 cyl's a while back and found one of the wires was a bit loose on its pin.

it might be the wiring looms test plug playing up.

ok i got the comp tester off by sliding a piece of steel tube down the comp hose and pushing it down onto the fitting while turning it with multi grips.next time i will be making damn sure the adaptors are really tight on the hose before using it.live and learn

dont know if youve seen these from australia.ive never fitted one to a bike but they look pretty good in the pics http://www.radguard.com.au/products/honda-cbr-1100-black-bird-fi-1999-2008-radiator-guard.html

im in perth western australia ,W.A is often said to stand for "wait awhile" when it comes to getting parts as we dont seem to stock much on this side of oz.. the people that fit the tyres actually run the track days i attend so i thought they would know what they were doing.they only sell dunlops and looking at the dunlop website the d211 front dosnt come in a 120 60 size(not that i can find anyway).once these tyres are worn i will look to replace them with a different brand that has the 120 60 front in a sticky tyre.any recomendations? problem im having now is after getting a compression tester the adaptor is stuck in the head.the adaptor unscrewed off the hose when i went to remove it from the head.. put a little bit of blue loctite on the hose fitting and screwed it back into the adaptor and now thats stuck too. any tips on getting the damn thing out would be greatly appreciated.

cheers scott.was a bit concerned about the sizes they fitted, but a few of the racers at the track said a 180 rear is what i should be running on the rear instead of the standard 160 size so i have a bigger contact patch while leant over. but no idea why they fitted a 70 front,unless the dunlops dont come in a 60.have no idea how i will be able to use tyre warmers later on though, theres no room left front or rear.will start looking around for suspension bits.im using sonic springs in my blackbird with 7.5 wt oil and can appreciate the difference correct springs make.picked up another complete unlicenced 97 f3 the other day real cheap so will be able to use that as a parts bike as needed.

thanks for sharing your experiences with them.its a shame that so many companies now just trade on the good name they built up years ago but supply cheaply built crap instead.i ended up only replacing the worn ball joint with one from a suspension shop,more than likely just a chinese made part.decided not to replace the others as i figured they would be old australian made ones and would probably still outlast the new ones on the market.

what are you getting at scott,are you sayin im fat . one of the riders at the track was kind enough to adjust the suspension for me which made a huge difference ,its still a black art to me,but im sure as i get quicker i will be looking for upgrades so will keep your suggestions in mind.have never heard of fox shocks before.the bike's running dunlop sportsmax d211's 180 rear 120x70 front.raised the front fender a bit to give extra clearance and i cant fault the grip they give in the corners yet.only place i could pass the bigger bikes was on the outside through the turns. you have been racing your f2 for a while havnt you scott, do you have any other mod tips you can share ? with the carbs im pretty sure a workmate mentioned quite a while back he had an ultrasonic cleaner so when i see him next will ask him if he still has it and can use it on my carbs.

had the bike at the track yesterday and apart from running rough after scrutineering the bike ran brilliantly.the scrutineer twisted the throttle back a few times with the engine off to see how well it returned so im guessing he may have flooded it .once out on the track i was able to get the revs right up and it cleared itself out. i have to admit i suprised at just how good the old f3 was out on the track.the bigger newer bikes had me on the straights but once it came to braking and cornering i had them.im definately hooked on track days now. had the 600 booked in for my first track day a couple of weeks ago but the day before the radiator sprung a leak so i took my blackbird instead.the blackbird is great on the road but on the track i found it hard work in the corners.had the pilot power front slide on me once and the pilot road 3 was sliding around on almost every corner.wont be running a road 3 on the bike again as it tends to cup on the sides too much so will be going back to the pilotroad 2. have just checked the plugs and 1 and 4 look perfect,2 and 3 are both looking a little rich but identicle to each other.runs standard jets,138 for cyls 1 and 4.140 for 2 and 3.stock headers with a roo racing muffler. on the street it ran fine in the lower revs and also above 6500 rpm but at cruising speeds of 100kph at around5000 5500rpm is where it was fluffy.havnt been able to work out which system in the carb runs that rev range as im reading conflicting opinions online. was thinking it might be a blockage in the actual carb bodies as well so was hoping that by riding it around with carby/injector cleaner in the fuel it might eventually clear it but i really dont know if thats possible or not as im still learning about how carbs work.

hey i live somewhere near perth. been pretty fortunate over here in the west as ethanol fuels havnt really taken off here yet.its just recently being introduced. will look into the diaphram.im sure whatever the cause is it will be something simple.its just a matter of finding it.

well i spent most of the morning running around trying to find a compression tester that would fit the spark plug hole or at least an adaptor to fit my compression tester but no luck.have had to buy one on ebay.should get it next week.did the running around on the 600 and number 3 wasnt firing till i got it up around 7000rpm and it seemed to clear whatever was blocking the fuel in that cyl and it now runs fine,apart from number 2 still rich.thinking i might take the bike to a track day this week and see if running it at higher revs over a period of time helps. where abouts in oz do your relatives live silverbird?

Do a compression test......gday silverbird,if compression was down in that cyl would that cause it to run rich ? was going to pull the carbs again in the morning but will check compression first. forgot to mention in my first post that ive checked the choke valve/needle thing as well in case it was sticking but it was all good.

have a problem with my 600f3 running rich in no2 cyl. when i bought it,it had been in storage for around 3 years and was running on 3 cyl.once i got it home i worked out which cyl wasnt firing and swapped out the plug which was really sooted up and it ran on all 4 till it sooted up again.have pulled the carbs and cleaned all the varnish off the needles and out of the jets using carb cleaner and compressed air.carb balance is spot on.bike runs heaps better but is still fluffy in the mid range but pulls really strong from around 6500 rpm. no2 plug is still sooting up and i can smell the bike is running rich.all other plugs look great.have swapped around coils and leads to rule out an electrical fault. have run carb/injector cleaner in the tank but no change. diaphrams have no tears or splits.no fuel coming out of overlow hose.bike starts well and idles. jets,needles and floats all look good but i think i must be overlooking something. anyone have any suggestions?

could be the key and lock tumblers are worn.your spare key should still be like new so try that

cheers for that.i can order parts now i know what ive bought

the compliance plate has 1998 cbr600f ,no where on the bike does it have f3.(the CBR 600F was discontinued in '90)that would explain why when i look up parts lists for it in the US its only showing f3.

have bought a cheap 98 cbr 600f to use as a track day bike and looking at the cheap fairing kits on ebay for a 98 they seem to be all for the f3. does anyone know if the f3 fairings will fit the f model?

the original oem stator in mine lasted about 40,000klms.had it rewound by a motorcycle electrics shop and it lasted around 100,000klms .had them rewind it again and got about another 100,000klms out of it .running an oem stator at the moment while i look for another shop that does quality work to rebuild the old one again.from what ive read it comes down to the lacquer coating degrading that stuff them up.

had a look at rock auto,shipping was a couple of dollars more than summit racing but noticed they sell ngk plugs for the blackbird for $6.49,.i think last time i priced them here in aus they wanted around $20 each kinda explains why i try and buy parts from the usa myself.2 moog ball joints here $118 or buy them myself from us 4 for $135 delivered.havnt found oem ball joints so will go with moog.uppers and lowers are greasable and hopefully more reliable and better quality that the chinese crap thats flooded our market.

thanks for the info.i like how theres a broad spread of knowledge on this forum.the moog ball joints here are around $118 a pair delivered compared to $72 to $82 for a set of 4 chinese ones.