poida

thanks superhawk.i used reducteur penetrating oil .i need to buy new bolts to replace the old ones but there are none available in australia so they will need to be ordered from japan.that will give me 2 or 3 weeks to get the broken bit out.was thinking of trying loctite freeze and release on the bolt.a friend suggested using a hot air gun on the engine casing leaving the bolt cold another suggested welding an 8mm nut onto the bolt,although that sounds a bit extreme at this stage.i know the engines get hot when running but do you know if there is anything that could be damaged by applying heat to just a small area of the casing?forgot to add,there is about 3 to 4mm of bolt sticking out.

after some advice on the best way to go from here.was removing the old waterpump today so i could fit the new one but one of the bolts holding it in has snapped.there is still a little bit of the bolt sticking out so would anyone know the best way to proceed from here before i wreck what bit of bolt is left to grab.have sprayed it with a releasing spray and left it at that for now.

when my 99 has run on 3 cyl's it is usually one of the wires that plugs onto the coil . giving the connector where it plugs onto the coil a jiggle and it seems to sort it out.

thanks for the replies.my air cleaner gets pretty black so wasnt sure if that was because those holes were clogged up or not.hopefully i can get a couple of shims tomorrow.kinda shittin myself a bit that i screw something up so will be glad once it's all back together.

I'm attempting a valve adjustment on my 99 bird and when i removed the valve cover saw the holes that sit between the plug holes to be pretty gunked up.would i be correct in assuming they have something to do with the pair system?What would be the best and easiest way to clean them?I was thinking of using my shop vac and funnelling the end of it down to see if it will suck the crap out but thought it best to ask in case it's the wrong thing to do.

very nice looking bike.if it was here in australia i,d buy it in a flash.

Have had one of those meters on my bike for a couple of years now and ride year round.have been caught out in a some very heavy downpours and it still works fine.

dont know if your working from a workshop manual or not so have scanned these from my haynes manual bottom page first then top page.

Did you do a full flush of the system or just try bleeding it.reason i ask is the brake fluid in it may be contaminated.

when you say old pads ,are they old ones that have been used or were they old new ones.just wondering if they had the backing plates on them.ive only ever had the rear brake not release fully due to the slider pin sticking. if it was a front brake i would suggest pulling the front lever in as far as possible and tie it there and leave it overnight..worked on a gs1000 i once owned.not sure how you would do similar on the rear though.

i usually flush out the old fluid with new every couple of years.i follow the sequence as stated in the manual.i push a section of clear hose onto the bleed nipple with the other end of the hose going into a jar that i have enough fresh fluid in that it covers the end of the hose.then pull the lever till it,s under pressure then release the nipple.once the lever hits the bar,nip up the nipple and release the lever.repeat until fresh clean fluid is coming out.sometimes it can help to work the lever a few times before releasing the nipple.just make sure you always have enough fresh fluid in the master cylinder

the sounds like a diesel had me thinking cct as well.

Being able to see voltage numbers was why i went from the kuryakin volt meter which just had a row of different coloured lights,to the volt meter rc randy posted.mines attached in pretty much the same spot as rc randy's but fitted without cutting into the plastic by using stick on velcro dots .I have it wired into the fans wiring cable and while it shows a slightly lower voltage than when i put a volt meter directly to the battery it gives me a pretty good idea whats going on.

I have the same on my bike.prefer it to the kuryakin one i had on it previously

slime powersport and a tubeless repair kit is what i keep on my bike.have had to use it a few times now and works great.made a shelf for it to sit on in the ducktail of my blackbird by tying a couple of bits of webbing in an x.i dont use the case it comes in,instead i have it wrapped in an old t towel so i have a rag as well to clean my hands with.the power cable and inflator hose fit under the tool strap and the tubeless repair kit sits under the seat where the owners manual is meant to be stored. pretty sure mine is a slime powersport 2000.have had it for years so could have been upgraded since.

Good to hear it,s up and running again.

tried zap hobby glue on an old piece of fairing but while it adhered really well it was too brittle for the join i need. the tail section i need to repair flexes a bit when i use the grab rail to put the bike on the centre stand. will look for some abs solvent cement and mix some abs plastic into it. have only been able to find pvc solvent cement so far.we are a bit limited for choice here in aus.

will try a hobby shop for some abs glue.if the soldering iron dosnt get too hot it should be ok to use then?

why not use a soldering iron ?

well the rapid fix 2 part plastics glue didnt work.will try welding it with a soldering iron next.just need to find some abs plastic to melt in.

is that like a jb weld epoxy? the repair would need to be able to withstand a little bit of flex. was having a look at plastex but unfortunately it dosnt appear to be sold in australia.i did find another 2 part adhesive here called rapid fix plastic glue.mix the glue with the powder and it's meant to melt into the plastic.

has anyone had any success in repairing fairings? the left side of the tailpiece on my bike has snapped near where it bolts to the frame.im guessing it was caused by the movement it gets when lifting the bike onto the centre stand. having to use tape on it at the moment to keep it from flapping about.

if the battery isnt dead i dont think it would be reg rec.possibly a short somewhere.it may sound silly but you might be able to isolate the area to start looking by following your nose for where the burnt smell is strongest.

it happens to me from time time,not just 5 to 6th but could be any shift.not really going into proper neutral as it makes a horrible racket till i shift it firmly back into gear.ive always put it down to lazy shifting and too much slack in the drive chain

Hi Hooplehead,could be lazy shifting or possibly the drive chain is too loose.