poida

i threaded the other bolt that didnt snap into it while using plenty of penetrant.just worked it in and out slowly going deeper.threads seemed to be holding ok.ultimate test will be when i tighten them up once the pump is in.had a call today that my replacement bolts are in so will pick them up in the morning and fit the pump.should i coat the new bolts in anything like brake caliper pin grease?

update.finally managed to get it out.welding a nut on didnt work as it was difficult to get good penetration with a weld. so i upped the amps slightly on the welder and welded directly on to the bit that remained sticking out.slowly built up the amount of weld till there was enough to get a good grip on it with small stilsons and was able to initially get it to turn clockwise a bit.then spent the next few hours slowly turning it in and out with doses of penetrant till it came out.there was some thread stuck to the end of the bolt but hopefully it hasn,t damaged the thread enough that i cant get a new bolt to do up once they arrive.

ive found it can take a surprisingly long time for moisture to evaporate from the outside of the radiator after washing it . take the bike for a ride and recheck.

drilling and easyout would be as a last resort when i have nothing left of the bolt sticking out.would prefer to use the gentlest options first like heating/cooling to try and free it up.

thanks for all the advice.will try the freeze spray on the bolt and heat on the casing for a few days and see if that free's it up.will start with vice grips or small stillsons and try not to shear off the bit protruding. spent a few hours googling last night and found out about left hand drill bits,only problem is finding them here in australia and a mate has a small easy out kit at work he has offered to lend me.i have a mig welder so welding a nut on wouldnt be a problem just not sure if i want to go down that path just yet.

thanks superhawk.i used reducteur penetrating oil .i need to buy new bolts to replace the old ones but there are none available in australia so they will need to be ordered from japan.that will give me 2 or 3 weeks to get the broken bit out.was thinking of trying loctite freeze and release on the bolt.a friend suggested using a hot air gun on the engine casing leaving the bolt cold another suggested welding an 8mm nut onto the bolt,although that sounds a bit extreme at this stage.i know the engines get hot when running but do you know if there is anything that could be damaged by applying heat to just a small area of the casing?forgot to add,there is about 3 to 4mm of bolt sticking out.

after some advice on the best way to go from here.was removing the old waterpump today so i could fit the new one but one of the bolts holding it in has snapped.there is still a little bit of the bolt sticking out so would anyone know the best way to proceed from here before i wreck what bit of bolt is left to grab.have sprayed it with a releasing spray and left it at that for now.

when my 99 has run on 3 cyl's it is usually one of the wires that plugs onto the coil . giving the connector where it plugs onto the coil a jiggle and it seems to sort it out.

thanks for the replies.my air cleaner gets pretty black so wasnt sure if that was because those holes were clogged up or not.hopefully i can get a couple of shims tomorrow.kinda shittin myself a bit that i screw something up so will be glad once it's all back together.

I'm attempting a valve adjustment on my 99 bird and when i removed the valve cover saw the holes that sit between the plug holes to be pretty gunked up.would i be correct in assuming they have something to do with the pair system?What would be the best and easiest way to clean them?I was thinking of using my shop vac and funnelling the end of it down to see if it will suck the crap out but thought it best to ask in case it's the wrong thing to do.

very nice looking bike.if it was here in australia i,d buy it in a flash.

Have had one of those meters on my bike for a couple of years now and ride year round.have been caught out in a some very heavy downpours and it still works fine.

dont know if your working from a workshop manual or not so have scanned these from my haynes manual bottom page first then top page.

Did you do a full flush of the system or just try bleeding it.reason i ask is the brake fluid in it may be contaminated.

when you say old pads ,are they old ones that have been used or were they old new ones.just wondering if they had the backing plates on them.ive only ever had the rear brake not release fully due to the slider pin sticking. if it was a front brake i would suggest pulling the front lever in as far as possible and tie it there and leave it overnight..worked on a gs1000 i once owned.not sure how you would do similar on the rear though.

i usually flush out the old fluid with new every couple of years.i follow the sequence as stated in the manual.i push a section of clear hose onto the bleed nipple with the other end of the hose going into a jar that i have enough fresh fluid in that it covers the end of the hose.then pull the lever till it,s under pressure then release the nipple.once the lever hits the bar,nip up the nipple and release the lever.repeat until fresh clean fluid is coming out.sometimes it can help to work the lever a few times before releasing the nipple.just make sure you always have enough fresh fluid in the master cylinder

the sounds like a diesel had me thinking cct as well.

Being able to see voltage numbers was why i went from the kuryakin volt meter which just had a row of different coloured lights,to the volt meter rc randy posted.mines attached in pretty much the same spot as rc randy's but fitted without cutting into the plastic by using stick on velcro dots .I have it wired into the fans wiring cable and while it shows a slightly lower voltage than when i put a volt meter directly to the battery it gives me a pretty good idea whats going on.

I have the same on my bike.prefer it to the kuryakin one i had on it previously

slime powersport and a tubeless repair kit is what i keep on my bike.have had to use it a few times now and works great.made a shelf for it to sit on in the ducktail of my blackbird by tying a couple of bits of webbing in an x.i dont use the case it comes in,instead i have it wrapped in an old t towel so i have a rag as well to clean my hands with.the power cable and inflator hose fit under the tool strap and the tubeless repair kit sits under the seat where the owners manual is meant to be stored. pretty sure mine is a slime powersport 2000.have had it for years so could have been upgraded since.

Good to hear it,s up and running again.

tried zap hobby glue on an old piece of fairing but while it adhered really well it was too brittle for the join i need. the tail section i need to repair flexes a bit when i use the grab rail to put the bike on the centre stand. will look for some abs solvent cement and mix some abs plastic into it. have only been able to find pvc solvent cement so far.we are a bit limited for choice here in aus.

will try a hobby shop for some abs glue.if the soldering iron dosnt get too hot it should be ok to use then?

why not use a soldering iron ?

well the rapid fix 2 part plastics glue didnt work.will try welding it with a soldering iron next.just need to find some abs plastic to melt in.