redxxrdr

I am planning the same thing and have never been into a set of forks. This link seems to make sense to me. But as I said, this will be my first attempt.SASBK

From 230 the first of October to 202 this week. I had hit a plateau of 208 during the holidays. Finally going down again. 20 more to go!!! The best part so far is I don't hurt as much, and can do more with the kids. And that is very cool.

I made a version of the laser tool shown on another board. Laser shoots forward from the rear tire to a set of targets mounted on the front tire. Once I aligned with this tool, my chain ran straight down the sprockets. The left and right indicator notches are not the same. They miss by at least 1/2 notch. There are a number of great ways to align the wheel correctly. Seems the only one that does not work well is the notches supplied by Honda. :cry:

I just replaced the slave cylinder on my 1987 Magna. It had been to Stealers during warranty for the same issue, and they never found it. Wife rides it more, so I figured fix it. Yeah I know, 20 years later. I found the rear seal was bent and leaking from improper installation. $90.00 for the whole unit from Ron Ayers. I doubt the CBR is much more. +1 on removing it and checking for fluid. It is not hard to remove, and gives you time to clean all the gunk from around the front sprocket.

Not sure on the GM, but my Ford has a schrader valve near the firewall on the injector rail. You can bleed the pressure there. Want the engine cold, since this is real close to the exhaust manifold. FYI the Ford uses quick disconnects. Ford sells a neat, expensive tool to compress the clips on the filter. A $5.00 airconditioner line removeal kit has many sizes and works better.

Be careful at the coin wash. If it is a pressure wash, you may have gasket problems you didn't start with. A good degreaser, a long bristle cleaning brush, and a source of warm water will be much safer, and won't risk blowing out a gasket or o-ring. Yes I know from experience. :oops: To quote my wife. " Experience is what you get....... When you don't get what you want"

Hey, I tried that right hand head light switch on my bike today. It does a good job of making my engine quiet!! I bet that switch is a lot cheaper than replacing my CCT. It improved my fuel mileage too!!!! And that effort pushing my XX home has helped me loose some more weight. Thanks for the tip. :twisted: Craig

More questions from a Newbie. I understand the static and loaded sag setup. My bigger question is suspension rake. This will change when we shim the rear, or install longer/stronger front springs. Google indicates that rake is head angle. On the XX I suspect fork tube angle will be close. Google also showed 1999 XX rake specification to be 25 degrees. I assume this is measured with static sag, and no shims. Has anyone ever measured rake after installation of shims. Where would you measure a level point on the bike? The bike must be level, before a accurate rake measurement could be made. Since Hyperpro has the forks droped after installation of their product, it must be important. I would like a better measurement process than " lower the forks xxxx mm. Thanks, Craig

Agree with Northman, Look at the problems the 99,00 birds had with a service plug in the harness getting wet. If it was a salt water bath, or fresh for any time at all, you would be best to steer clear. My view would be that forks, brake lines, clutch lines, should be ok. The calipers are probably corroded. Don't forget the wheel bearings and head bearings. Have these fail while riding, and it will be a big O-Shit. If water was high enough to get into the engine, forget it. The plastic may be scratched, from other things floating around a submerged bike. All of this means less return if you have to part it out. Find out how high the water was, how long it sat, and what was done to the bike after the water went down. This is one good deal that may cost a fortune. :cry:

Most suggest never going over 6mm. Search will give you lots of information. The rear of the bike will go up. If you are less than 6 foot, you may find it hard to pull the bike over curbs and bumps. I did 4mm to start. It is easy to do and does help the bike turn in. I think it was Warchild that posted a how to with pictures.

I would put a drop light under the bike and add a cover, blanket, something to direct the heat up to the engine. Low watt bulb, 60 to 100 should do. Pull the covers after a couple of days and check the clamps. Then check coolant level. Freeze plugs, were actually casting access. They will pop out if the coolant in a block freezes, but I have never had one actually protect the engine. Hate to think what a aluminum engine would do. If it were mine, and I could get it outside, I think I would warm it up with a lamp, inspect and tighten everything I could, refill and start it. Outside of course. I have never tried to warm one up in a area that cold, but I would think you could get it hot enough to get pressure on the system and look for leaks. If no leaks, at least you could sleep better until the thaw.

How about some pictures of anything that seems difficult. I plan to order from Doug after the first of the year. I know it comes with a how to video, but this will be my first time into forks.

Googled for Hyperpro and found a American website. Only listed through 99 xx. Are there differences? I have asked for tech support, but it is a holiday. Do they make different sizes for us ++ riders? Edit, just released this question, and my mail updated. Doug Cameron the hyperpro distributor left this phone number. 888-963-1212 Says he rides a XX.

I did see a 3-5 degree increase indicated switching to synthetic. My dad saw the same on his 1/2 vw aircraft engine. I don't worry too much. We tore down the vw at 1500 hours, and it was totally clean inside. Still within tollerance on the crank and cam. I figure less grunge buildup, lower total wear.

My 01 runs around 180 during the summer with 95-100 degree air temps. I will run a minimum 176 degrees, when the air temp is cool. These temps are running Mobil 1. I saw a 3 to 5 degree increase of indicated temp switching to synthetic. Temps are always high below 40 mph.Cools much better at speed. I saw 257 degrees, idling, at Daytona a few weeks ago. High air temp, light tailwind. This caused the fan to be ineffective. At 257, the temp gauge starts flashing. Changed the oil once I got home. It stunk. I would not be concerned with 180-185 if the air temp is 85 degrees or higher.

I was in bad, stop, stop, stop, go traffic in Daytona a few weeks ago. Was indicating 257 degrees F when I decided to turn off. I never overflowed, and levels were just where I set them before the trip. I don't like pushing the oil that hot, but the bird seems to be able to take it.

My O1 xx doesn't have a chip. Had keys made from the origional. Stealer had written the key code in the owners manual of both new Honda's I purchased. Just in case. If the F4 doesn't have a chip, then a good locksmith should be able to make you a replacement key.

I made a laser tool, simular to Geoff's. http://www.bikersoracle.com/jaws/waligntool.htm For the laser, I bought a CHEAP level at a truck sale with a laser in it. Because the laser was not centered in the end of the level, the laser was far enough out to miss the center stand. I put the laser level across the rear tire. The targets had to be wider, for the beam to hit. Used another level to support the targets on the front tire. Big Lots level for $5.00. I figure the aluminum won't warp in my high humidity. What I like about the laser tool is that a little bit of misalignment will displace the laser quite a bit. For my old eyes, it just works better than the coat hangar method. I did go 18K on my first chain, without a laser, using the notches without problem. One thing I have noticed, when done right, the chain runs centered on the rear sproket. The way my stealer had adjusted it before my chain was damaged, the chain was all the way over to one side.

I would still check the chain. Put it on the center stand and run through the gears at idle. My chain would move up and down as the bad link came close to the front sproket. As I said earlier, had 18K but not stretched. What I didn't mention is that I had recently started cleaning and relubing the chain. Using simple green, I think I removed too much lube from the link, and didn't get it dry. :oops:

check the chain for a stiff, sticking link. Had a simular problem, chain had 18K on it but was only half way through the adjuster. As the chain went around the front sproket under load, it would lift and fall, making the noise. I moved each link by hand until I found one that would not move up and down from the next. I was a chicken shit and changed it. May have been able to B.laster it for a few more miles. Didn't want to risk the health of my pillion on a chain.

I would check the tires for tracking. Geoff used his laser on his alignment tool pointed at the edge of the tire. Split the beam with the tire, then turn the tire to make sure it tracks the same all the way around. If not, check the seating of the tire. Check both side, front and rear tires. I have also read where the front axle was installed with the pinch bolts a little too tight. The author said this caused the axle to seat wrong, and the forks to not be aligned. Might be worth loosening the pinch bolts, and re-torquing both axles. http://www.bikersoracle.com/jaws/waligntool.htm

I would also check rear tire alignment. I am now using a version of the laser tool wheel alignment jig. Shows that my alignment marks were not very accurate. But the chain now runs straight down the rear sprocket.

I just got in from Daytona, Bikeoctober fest. Was stupid and did the international Blvd, Main street cruise last night. When Temp hit 257 degrees F, I started turning off until traffic moved. My 01 with the origional battery did this shutoff/restart 25 - 30 times in the hour and half I was on main. I had read on another board that long idle times required 1500 rpm for proper charge, mine is set near 1200. Here are some measurement off my bird that I took when Joe was having problems. Hope they help. If you are riding every few days, ride or charge and make sure it starts.Remove the ground terminal from the battery while the bike is not used. Reconnect and try to start the bike. I have had automotive regulators, and the diodes in the altenators fail. This drags the battery down. Most testers did not find this failure. Batterys do intermittantly fail under load, but most fail completely soon after. A quick check after a short ride on my 01 origional battery. Switches off 12.6 vdc. Ignition on, FI lamp off, dip beam 12vdc. Starter, dropped to 9.85 vdc. Running, idle of 1200rpm, charged to 14.6vdc. You may want to look at the electrolite level. I have found that my Magna will over charge enough to lower the level below the plates. If you catch it soon enough, distilled water will give you a few more months. If you need to compare, I am near Tifton, Ga. And if I ever get this new chain staked correctly could ride down.

xxbird, I couldn't open the pictures. I just purchased and used a motion pro jumbo tool in that price range. I still ground off the rivet head before pushing the rivet. ( actually dremel cut the chain off) There is a $30.00 accessory to give you that FACTORY four point stake appearance. I have no idea what that means. A mechanic in town showed me his $5.00 flaring tool, with a metal plate that he puts where the tubing holder would go. Chain is assembled with small vice grips, then riveted between the flare portion and the plate. Works for him, but I am glad I bought the tool.

I left out the d at the end of purchased. I did purchase a MP. The DID is less expensive and made for the DID chain. I noticed when ordering that I could get a $30.00 option to the tool that gives me that FACTORY 4 point crimp look. What is that about? My DID chain has neat round rivets. Is there a different link, with a harder material for that 30 dollar extra tool? I will learn to spill / spell one day.