Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

BanditSid

Members
  • Posts

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. I agree with Fizzy, I have carried out the loom fix and took it a step further by adding a large diameter earth cable from the loom fix green wires to the frame earth. After that I got an Fi light fault and I checked the ECU plugs and found one of the earth connections was corroded, it looks like the water entering the loom fix connector had wicked up the cable. I found that moving the wire in the ECU plug made the Fi light go off and on. It seems the loom fix issue goes beyond the connector on the frame.
  2. The regulator needs a good connection to earth (battery negative) as it uses this as the reference point for it's regulated output. I would check that both the green wires in the reg/rec connector have a low resistance to either the frame or battery negative, if it's much more than 1 ohm I'd be tempted to add an extra wire from each green cable to the earth point on the cross rail under the rear of the fuel tank.
  3. It sounds like you have a ground problem and it may be related to the loom fix issue. If you look at the schematic for your bike there are around 10 connections all made to the common ground wire that is earthed to the bike frame under the rear of the tank. The loom fix connector is where each of these wires are connected together, so all of the lights and indicators and fuel pump and ECU and some sensors are joined together and then to a wire that goes to the earth under the tank. Honda do this so they can check the current drawn by various parts of the bike during the build process to confirm they are operating correctly. The loom fix was corroded on my bike as was the earth under the tank, I would suggest you carry out the loom fix and then check the earth point for corrosion and fix that as well.
  4. Not sure if you got this resolved but I had the exact same problem a few weeks back. The bike sat for a couple of weeks with no use due to weather, when I went to start it there was no HISS light on turning the key and no fuel pump prime but it cranked over at the normal speed. Turned out to be the fuse in the white holder next to the battery positive connection. The holder had some corrosion on one of the connectors and the fuse, while it looked fine, was open circuit - possibly some internal corrosion. I cleaned the holder with contact cleaner and fitted a new fuse and it fired up straight away. It now feels a bit more powerful, possibly the problem had been there for a while and was gradually getting worse till it failed.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use