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    85 VF700F Interceptor, 89 KDX, 62 Greeves

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  1. ccriderXX

    PC2 Maps needed

    Hah, that's because you are always up front Jeff. 😁
  2. ccriderXX

    PC2 Maps needed

    Here is ELVXXs post on how he built the maps. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=27591&hl=PC++economy++maps++lean I've been using the "economy" map FIXXR? It runs leaner at cruise speeds, but has plenty of power when you whack the throttle. But like Joe mentioned, I get complaints that my bike smells too rich. Anyone solve that with a PCll map?
  3. ccriderXX

    1993 CBR900RR, 7,XXX miles

    Thanks for the heads up. I passed it on to my friend. He and I are just helping out the seller.
  4. Posting for a friend in Baker City, OR. He is a great mechanic and was asked to get this bike going: It has 7xxx miles. runs great. clean. contact info Josh 415-699-6207 He is open to offers.
  5. +1 all good information, and I agree. I just got this same info today from a mechanic at a local shop, and on the SABMAG email list. I have all stock stuff installed now. But my theory is that the emulsion tubes are ovaled. I do have good condition newer slide needles installed. But for years it had been running the Dynojet needles. They do looked kind of warn. Oh and to confirm that the emulsion tubes may be worn is: while revving the bike and looking down at the slides, I saw one spit a little bit of fuel around the slide needle as it was opening. I think this raw fuel is what is contributing to the rich condition. Thanks for your comments, it really helps!
  6. I agree Hobi. I will sync the carbs next, that should smooth it a bit more. I did inspect the choke system. The cable actuates the linkage fine and all the plungers on each carb operate as they should. Possibly internally at least one choke is causing some richness? But all plugs look rich. Here is what I said on the email list: Well I think I made progress today. First I connected the fuel pump back up. In working with it I noticed I still had the original fuel filter inline below the fuel pump. I had another one up by the tank. So I replaced the stock one with a larger auto gas filter, and took out the second filter. With the pretty fouled plugs I tested the bike without the airbox on. It didn't seem to be much improved. I was able to watch to make sure the slides were moving up like they are supposed to with vacuum. I made sure all fuel lines and breather hoses were clear. I didn't ride it in this config as I had the gas tank setting backwards where the seat goes. I picked up a couple sets of new plugs. I decided to try some hotter plugs to see if that would help at all. I put the stock paper air filter in and re-installed the stock exhaust pipes. I put the tank and seat back on and fired it up. It did rev up as if on choke, even though the choke was off. Well I still see a bit of lighter black (dark grey) smoke while idling and revving up. Still seems a bit rich. I jumped on to take a spin. Wow, the idle and over all running of the bike feels better. Then on my first run up the street before the bike warmed up it felt much smoother in mid range. Much better. But as I rode it I could feel become not quite as smooth. But it was an improvement! The bike didn't feel like it would foul out. I decided to play with the pilot air screws. They were at 3 turns out, and I moved them to 3.5 turns out. This seemed to improve the low speed running of the bike. It never felt like it would die, held idle well. I rode the bike for about 15 minutes and it the performance didn't deteriorate. The plugs would have fouled out by this point previously. I took the bike up a big hill near me and it pulled up the hill well under load. When I got home I pulled a plug to see if it was any better. Shoot it looked the same as before. Maybe slightly less sooty, but still black like before. I have included a link to a very poor picture of the hotter DPR7EA-9 on the left (the last set of plugs) and on the right the way all plugs have looked in the past. They look the same in the picture but are slightly different. Very slightly. http://picasaweb.google.com/VF700F/Interce...052327925720082 So what I don't understand is: With the stock air filter and exhaust pipes and stock needles and main jet the bike still runs rich. How would I make it leaner? Go with leaner than stock needles? Possibly the choke circuit is causing the richness, but externally all the linkages and plungers are operating correctly. Would the slightly larger holes in drilled in the slides for the Dynojet kit cause richness? At least I know it is rich and not lean. Also I have eliminated other possibilities, the ignition coils and spark boxes work fine, and fuel flow seams fine. I will take it for a ride and see how long it runs before fouling plugs. Hopefully it won't. Thanks for all the ideas thrown out there guys. I appreciate the help. If the bike doesn't foul the plugs, I feel the bike runs good enough to enjoy it. Probably not the fastest Interceptor, but pretty good. It does feel like a V4 should. Here is a snapshot of the VF700F:
  7. Not my part, but seen on Seattle Craigslist: Right http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/1924995164.html New right handle bar for a 2008 Honda Interceptor 800 - $90 (Covington, WA) Date: 2010-08-28, 8:45PM PDT Reply to: sale-rme4c-1924995164@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] This is for a right handle bar from a brand new 2008 Honda Interceptor 800. These have been upgraded with a different style right after it was brought home. We are asking $90. New this part is $179. Put in our phone number to bring up all the parts for this bike. 253-639-4363 ask for Lance. Left http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/1924992016.html New left handle bar for 2008 Honda Interceptor 800 - $80 (Covington, WA) Date: 2010-08-28, 8:41PM PDT Reply to: sale-rwqvk-1924992016@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?] This is a left handle bar for a 2008 Honda Interceptor 800. These were taken off when new and upgraded. We have replaced both and are offering this one for $80. Brand new is $168.98. We have more parts for this bike listed so put in our phone number to bring up all the parts. 253-639-4363 ask for Lance.
  8. Thanks Stan. I agree it sounds like a rich problem. The needles should be fine. The carbs were rebuilt well, I think. I did use a infrared temp tester and saw up to about 212 at the header pipes. The cylinders were more like 196 F. I am going to tear into it again tomorrow. It is sounding more like a stuck choke. It runs OK, not good when cold, but when it is warmed up it is way too rich. I'll let you know what I find out.
  9. For Stan. It is not the cans. I had slip ons on my VF1000 and it didn't hurt it a bit. After leaving it sit a long time it did gum up the carbs which a good cleaning fixed. Sorry for no help. Yes the SABMAG carbs do gum up easily. I have cleaned them a couple times, then had an expert ultrasonically clean them. He put new orings and restored them. I did drain the gas from the carbs and tank before the bike sat this last time. The original owner had added a Dynojet needle and main jet kit when he put the slip ons on. Those were richer than stock. I may need to go that route. At this point I am just trying to get the bike to how it ran stock.
  10. Here is a message I posted to the SABMAG email list. I figured I would ask for help here to since several members have V4 histories: I am desperate and need some help from the collective. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. My brother in law and I tried to get the Interceptor running better today. It still in not right. The symptoms it has are: It doesn't accelerate like it should, down on power. The engine is not smooth over 3500 rpm, a tingly kind of vibration. Run it in taller gears at 3500 and below and it is smooth. Get back to the driveway after a test spin and a slight amount of dark brown/ black smoke or carbon comes out of the pipes. Eventually this fouls the plugs. We did notice today, that if you put turned the petcock off, as the bike leaned out the smoke would get worse as you rap it out. This makes me think it is a fuel flow issue? One other symptom, the idle isn't consistent. It will idle fine for awhile, then sometimes stay revved up. I used a Harbor Freight temperature tool and found all four cylinders were all around the same temp about 190F. I didn't notice pairs of cylinders stopping. But it does almost feel like at least one cylinder is not firing. Some history on the bike. My brother in law rode the bike out from Minnesota to Seattle a few years back. It seemed to cruise OK on the Interstate, but would load up and foul plugs going slow in town. He got a little over 30mpg. When I got it I had the valves adjusted, cleaned the carbs a couple times, then later had BillyC really rebuild the carbs. The carbs have stock jetting, are in awesome condition but need to be synced. I also made sure I had a good ground to the coil pack. The bike has a K&N air filter, and Kerker slip ons. I also have the stock pipes. Today we took a big swing at it to see if we could fix it. I had some coils and spark boxes from Matt Sherrill's known running VF700F. We through those on. One wire to a coil had a poor connection, the wire was just barely attached to the connector, but it was attached. I crimped a new fitting onto the end of the wire. Sprayed Deoxit contact cleaner on all connections. This step seemed to be a slight improvement. But I may go back to the stock parts someday, I don't think ignition is the problem. After seeing lean smoke type conditions when running out of fuel we started thinking it is a fuel flow issue. We bypassed the fuel pump by running the fuel line directly from tank to the carbs for a gravity system. I wonder why Interceptor has a fuel pump, as the tank is above the carbs. Before connecting the lines I blew on the hose to the carbs. It seemed unrestricted, but not sure. This bypass seemed to make another very slight improvement. We were thinking a poorly performing pump might restrict fuel flow. It did seem to be pumping. At this point we were thinking we had made some improvements, and the plugs had not fouled as soon as they usually do. But after the last couple test rides it started smoking again, and fouling the plugs. What do you think it is? I plan to pull the fuel line to the carbs to make sure it is not restricted. I feel the bike is running lean. Maybe due to the slip-ons? I could put the stock pipes back on. Oh, the battery is fine takes and keeps a charge, started the bike fine all day. I am pretty sure the issue is fuel related. I seems to me if it was too rich, I would notice some fuel smell out of the exhaust. I don't. I don't understand how it can be lean when running the stock jetting. Maybe stock pipes and a stock air filter will help this? Oh and for some perspective. I remember what a good running V45 Sabre feels like. My Sabre would pull hard from 5K to 11K, I loved it. Also, I understand it is no Blackbird. My bird has more power and is incredibly smooth and fuel injected. My current map allows me to get 48mpg. It does have a lean area in the map that feels similar to how the VF700F is feeling. At this point I am out of ideas. I hate to give up now and waste some money at a bike shop. Anyone have any suggestions? I would love to get this old gem back out on the road. Could a restricted fuel line cause a bike to lean out? Thanks in advance,
  11. ccriderXX

    Lubricating the Drive Chain

    Hmmm.... I also sense a troll... But I use Dupont Teflon Multiuse Spray at Lowes. On my latest DID X-ring chain I have gotten over 22K miles so far. I almost never have to tighten the chain. I am amazed at how long this chain has lasted. I think the Teflon spray has helped keep the o-rings lubricated. I keep the can in my bag and spray the chain once or twice a day on long rides.
  12. ccriderXX

    Burned connector for R/R need some help please

    Don't know what is going on with the Tach. But the connector issue was real common on '80s Honda Sabres and Magnas. Grit and dirt increase the resistance in the connector shell and it heats up and melts. On my Sabre I cut the connectors out and used solder and heat shrink to connect them. I had no other problems. I guess it does take a few more minutes to replace a regulator though.
  13. ccriderXX

    Parting out '98 BlackBird

    Interested in front brake lever. I assume it fits my '99.
  14. This bike is still for sale. Quentin has lowered his price. My friend Quentin has his ST1100 up for sale. He is retired and away from home at the moment. The bike is located in Bonners Ferry, ID. 1997 red St1100 with 59000 miles on it. It is in exceptionally clean condition for a 97. I would take $3750 for it. It is equipped as follows: I bought the bike new in 1997. Progressive fork springs Progressive rear shock SS Front brake lines Clearview windshield plus a shorter clearview that was too short for me Heli Bars, 6 way adjustable Heated grips BMW style socket to plug in electric jacket liner Accessory shelf GPS mount and plug Radar detector plug Rich's seat plus a corbin seat(piece of crap) Bagster tank bag Givi tail bag RKA liner bags for the side cases over $2500 for the listed accessories If interested contact Jeff (ccriderxx) at vf700f@gmail.com and he will put you in contact with Quentin.