dodge7d

EFR sells a cable clutch conversion. And I think that would help alot ! Elton said "that is the best upgrade for drag racing a XX...."

200 lbs, Ummmm errrr..................NOT QUITE! The RC is a heavy fat wallowing pig. It comes in at about 450lbs+. Mine has beat 2 XX's that I know of (right Sean) in a drag race. On the twisties theres nothing that can touch it, with a pair of capable hands. The XX will kick its ass over 100 though. As far as the Busa, well good luck! Well, at least it would sound like an RC51 ! I street raced an RC51, and he got spanked ! Bad... But I'am sure with a different rider, it would have done much better. I think most newer bikes are pretty close, and the rider is very important in drag racing.

Mine does that too, but it didn't just start up one day.... It might be worth it to pull the clutch cover off, and see if the clutch basket is ok. I heard that the clutch basket is a real weak point on Blackbirds....

If you want to be equal to a rc51, just pull off 2 plug wires & lose about 200lbs off the bike. If you want to equal a Busa just wreck your bike, and then buy a big bore kit. If drag racing : 1 - Drop a tooth on the front sprocket 2 - Extended swingarm 3 - Cable Clutch Conversion 4 - NOS If just general riding : 1 - Sell your bike 2 - Get something lighter, with more power... (gsxr1000 or R1) Good Luck....

That sounds like normal clutch drag to me. The thicker the oil, the more likely this would happen. Hows the clutch when you ride the bike?

Did it make a big difference? I have not done this mod yet, so if you do it let us know...

Chain adjustment & condition makes a big difference on the XX. I think mine shifts better without the clutch. Factory Pro makes a shift improver kit also... www.factorypro.com Picture of it installed.. http://66.47.68.116/images/ShiftKits/shift...ttKilbreath.jpg

Fram ph6017A from Wal-mart or just about any auto parts store. As often as I change the oil & filter, I don't care if I have the "best" filter on the market.

I can sell that one for $110.00 and FREE SHIPPING to the lower 48 states !

How about one of these? http://www.second-look.com/Store/index.htm...l?itemmsl1.html

Stock springs, and newer OEM clutches. No burnt steels, all seems to be in good shape. I know the mod gets 13% less clutch, but what would you do to get like 20% less? What exactly does it do when you swap the clutches around? I think it just takes one clutch and one steel out of the picture. Am I wrong?

I recently did the Kent Stotz clutch mod on my 97, that eliXXir recomended in previous threads. My clutch has always been real grabby at about 4500 rpm, and the only thing I can do on my launches is smoke tire, or lug the engine! So I did the mod... After doing the mod, the clutch is just as grabby and it just raised the rpm to about 5000 before it happens. The clutch is fine on power shifts, and don't slip at all. I don't have the funds for the multistage lockup, but I don't want give up either.. What would you guys recommend? Should I try a different setup, or just live with it?

I can get you this one http://www.diamondpowersports.com/images/l...ink_link6_b.jpg for $129.00 shipped or possible a cheaper (generic) version for $95.00 shipped..

I think with the right tools, just about any stems will work. I just screwed on a " 6045 Ball Foot Chuck " on the end of a standard inflator and it works very nice. Check out this place for inflator tools.. http://www.diamondu.com/tireinflatorgfauges.htm

No, they have an adaptor that screws into them that is about 1 1/2" and a 90* air chuck works sweet. I'am sure with a little work you could use a normal air chuck on them, but even stock stems have that problem. Tire gauges are not a problem either..... :cool: