tofastgt Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 I've read that you can raise the handlebars a little by loosening the clamps that go around the fork tubes. Can someone explain to a newbie how to do this, and how far up can I go and still be safe? Also, there is a clip at the top of the fork tubes. What is this for, and can I raise the bars up past this point? Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 I've read that you can raise the handlebars a little by loosening the clamps that go around the fork tubes. Can someone explain to a newbie how to do this, and how far up can I go and still be safe? Also, there is a clip at the top of the fork tubes. What is this for, and can I raise the bars up past this point? Thanks for the help You can raise them up about 1/2 inch or so by loosening them, sliding themup and tightening them down. I did this for about 8000 miles. Never had a problem with it, but I put it back to stock out of paranoia. When you raise them, you are: 1) cutting in half the total clamping area holding them on. 2) rendering the stock anti-rotation tab useless since you're raising it over it's slot. In my opinion it's dangerous, one hard braking session or something and one of them slips forward, you'll have a hard time maintaining control. For the amount of lift you get doing it, it's not worth the risk. My $0.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Many here have raised the bars with no troubles. In fact there was a crash pic where the bars were raised and the bar itself ripped out of the clamp, but the clamp never moved. I actually found that the raised bars were very uncomfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 No danger if done right. Pull off the retaining clips, slide them up and tighten them down. DO IT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chitown_hillbilly Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Three different bikes, two VFR's and a bird, for a total of close to 50000 miles with my clip ons raised and no problems. And when I tie down a bike for transport I pull off of the end of the clipons, I doubt I could put that much pressure on the bars braking. Trinity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runner Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Is this the same basic concept as the GenMar's? Except they raise the bars another 3/4"? I am seriously considering the Genmar's at the very least...rides over 100 mile are a pain in the wrist/neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 I've had my bars raised for 42k miles, and another 4k or so on top of that with the bike on the trailer with a Canyon Dancer, which pulls on the bars. They have never slipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicholy Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 I raised mine so the top of the clip on is at the top of the fork tube. No problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Genmars is basically a cover for the empty space created by raising the bars, and a pretty cap. They do retain the rotation lock, but I can't say I've ever used, it, in umpteen thousand miles of riding with the clipons raised above the fork tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Very hard braking during track days as well as a crash on the street and the bars have never rotated on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Is this the same basic concept as the GenMar's? Except they raise the bars another 3/4"? I am seriously considering the Genmar's at the very least...rides over 100 mile are a pain in the wrist/neck. There are a few guys here in Aus that have used the Genmars and like them, also a lot of people in the UK use them or JAWS version I have heard that you can lift the bars up as the guys have said and the may not move but I peronally didn't want to take the risk while braking as I am ~300lb so that's is a lot of weight so I just went for the VFR bars as they not only lift the bars up slightly more than GM's but move them back as well and are a smidge wider too I guess it really depends on how much lift you want the good thing with the JAWS risers are that you can get them with preload adjusters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackStreet Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 You may want to look at Heli bars or VFR bars. Also, the peg lowering blocks are great for comfort As you ride, try and keep your weight off the bars and keep a loose grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helvet Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 You may want to look at Heli bars or VFR bars. Just check these pictures out: http://blackbirdownersclub.eu/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=208 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tofastgt Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 Those pictures are really helpful. Looking at my handlebars though, they are a smidget under the clip on the tube, but right against the base. In the pictures it shows alot more space below the clip, with the handlebars against the base. Is there anyway of knowing if the guy before me lowered the forks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Those pictures are really helpful. Looking at my handlebars though, they are a smidget under the clip on the tube, but right against the base. In the pictures it shows a lot more space below the clip, with the handlebars against the base. Is there anyway of knowing if the guy before me lowered the forks? The manual says 39mm from the top bridge or triple clamp to the top of the fork ( under the cap ) :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helvet Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Those pictures are really helpful. Looking at my handlebars though, they are a smidget under the clip on the tube, but right against the base. In the pictures it shows alot more space below the clip, with the handlebars against the base. Is there anyway of knowing if the guy before me lowered the forks? The bike in the pictures is set up with Hyperpro springs. This set-up includes dropping the front, and raising the rear. That is the difference you see on the pics..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedad415 Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 Quick confirmation... Just bought a slightly used set of Heli bars. The fellow that I bought them from says I do not have to modify anything as far as break lines/throttle cable/clutch lines. I believe if I am reading the Heli website correctly, this is true. I have read elswhere on this site about grinding parts and snipping the banjo tabs, etc. Any comments? Mine is a '99 bird, all stock to do with the bars except the Throttlemeister. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01xxallen Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 Quick confirmation... Just bought a slightly used set of Heli bars. The fellow that I bought them from says I do not have to modify anything as far as break lines/throttle cable/clutch lines. I believe if I am reading the Heli website correctly, this is true. I have read elswhere on this site about grinding parts and snipping the banjo tabs, etc. Any comments? Mine is a '99 bird, all stock to do with the bars except the Throttlemeister. Yes, to install the Heli-bars, you grind off a tab on the master cylinder that keeps the banjo fitting from rotating. I used a Dremmel tool and did it without removing the banjo bolt. When you look at the clutch and brake lines it is apparent what tabs have to go. Just loosen the banjo bolt enough to rotate it slightly and gain a little slack. I did not need to bleed either system. The little tab you nip off is cast into the master cylinder housing. You need a Dremmel tool anyway! In my opinion the clutch line is still a little tight, and others have recommended releasing it from the frame clip and flexing it up. Good idea. The Heli install is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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