Galfer brake/clutch lines install?

[testrider]

I ordered a set of Galfer brake/clutch lines from cyclebrakes.com and I should

have it this Fri. I have a couple of questions for those of you who installed

similar lines:

- The brake lines will go from master cylinder to left and right brakes.

How did you route yours? What do you use to clip the lines?

- Same for the clutch line? (as it will go from clutch MC to clutch instead

of going to a hard line)

Thanks!

[dunedain]

I ordered a set of Galfer brake/clutch lines from cyclebrakes.com and I should

have it this Fri. I have a couple of questions for those of you who installed

similar lines:

- The brake lines will go from master cylinder to left and right brakes.

How did you route yours? What do you use to clip the lines?

- Same for the clutch line? (as it will go from clutch MC to clutch instead

of going to a hard line)

Thanks!

I routed mine just like the stock and ziptied them where I wanted them. The clutch line is easy. It's a linked line that sucks as bleeding the system even w/bleeders and a mighty vac was not easy. De-link woiuld be my recomendation.

Also, many of the lines have an agnle on the end to the banjo bolt hole and you must play with them a little to makke sure which side is up or down or which way the angle best suits.

[airborneXX]

If you're just doing the front lines it's a piece of cake. The front brake lines are not linked to the rear as far as the hydraulics go. It looks much more complicated than it really is. Now doing a complete line replacement is another story, plan on spending 6-8 hours on that task.

[testrider]

I routed mine just like the stock and ziptied them where I wanted them. The clutch line is easy. It's a linked line that sucks as bleeding the system even w/bleeders and a mighty vac was not easy. De-link woiuld be my recomendation.

Also, many of the lines have an agnle on the end to the banjo bolt hole and you must play with them a little to makke sure which side is up or down or which way the angle best suits.

THanks for the reply. So you followed the stock hose and the stock hard line.

For ex, going from MC down, then accross the fender, then going down again

to the left side?

If you're just doing the front lines it's a piece of cake. The front brake lines are not linked to the rear as far as the hydraulics go. It looks much more complicated than it really is. Now doing a complete line replacement is another story, plan on spending 6-8 hours on that task.

Thanks. Yes, I understand that the front brake lines are not connected to the rear

internally so I will only have to bleed the front brake. The clutch line seems like

a pain as there is not much room to go from MC to the clutch.

[matey_peeps]

Did they ask you about the orientation of the banjos? I emailed cyclebrakes about a set for my GS and it seemed that they needed help in that department.

[testrider]

Did they ask you about the orientation of the banjos? I emailed cyclebrakes about a set for my GS and it seemed that they needed help in that department.

No, they did not. They just asked the bike model and if I got a higher bar or not.

I got a set with +2" as I have Helibar on my XX. That's it.

[matey_peeps]

Interesting.

They said

blah blah blah "Before I am

able to place an order I have to give you the specs for the lines and have

you measure your lines on the bike to verify that they are correct. We do

this with mostly every BMW brake line orders because they are constantly

changing part numbers and it just assures us that the correct parts will be

sent out to you."

To which I replied

"Judging by your response, Galfer needs help with the development of this product? No other company has asked me for the orientation. Of course I'll be willing to help in this department, for the small fee of a set of lines."

And said back

"Actually Galfer does not need help.... Like I said before every year BMW is

changing their bikes/part #'s/etc... We assure that people will get the

correct lines instead of going back and forth trying to get the correct

parts for their bike. I was just trying to be helpful and assist you. If you

are willing to take the chance and order the lines without verifying that

they are correct is your decision, but I am letting you know that it is

helpful on both our parts if you do verify that they are correct. Getting

the wrong parts means that you will have to return them and either get new

ones sent out to you or get a credit. Both take time and more money for

shipping, so that small fee for the brake lines that you mentioned will

actually start to get bigger and bigger. I hope you will have the time to

check your lines. We like to know that our customers are satisfied and that

they get the parts they need and are looking for. If you have any other

questions please email us back."

And I said back

"Actually I think I'll just order Speigler lines. I've used them in the past and was pleased. I can't afford to have my bike inoperable while I wait on lines to get here. Thanks anyway."

When I know for a fact the same lines were used on every GS, 1100 & 1150, from 95 until the servo-assisted bikes came out in 03.

[testrider]

Hi all,

I received the Galfer brake/clutch lines yesterday and I installed the front brake lines.

Since I have Helibar (which is about 1.5" higher than stock clip-ons),

I got the lines with 2" longer than stock. Looks like I should

get the stock length as they seem to be too long. So the lines at the calibers

are not straight as the OEM lines and I'm wondering if it's ok.

Please take a look at these pictures and let me know if I should loosen the

banjo bolts at the caliber to try to straighten them up or is this ok?

I would appreciate your comments very much.

PS: Also, just curious, the Galfer banjo bolt has a much smaller hole comparing to

OEM. I wonder what effect does the smaller/larger hole have no the brake lines?

[XXTi]

Don't worry about the size of the hole in the banjo bolt. They will work fine.

I can't really tell from your pics, but it almost looks like you used the straight ends of the lines on the calipers and the bent ends on the master cylinder. If so, you put them on backward.

[testrider]

Don't worry about the size of the hole in the banjo bolt. They will work fine.

I can't really tell from your pics, but it almost looks like you used the straight ends of the lines on the calipers and the bent ends on the master cylinder. If so, you put them on backward.

Thanks, Jim, yes, for the right caliber I put the straight end on the caliber because it wouldn't fit the M/C side without hitting the M/C body. Anyway, do you think they are still ok so should I straighten up? I already tried but the line is too long so I don't think I can do any better...

Thanks again.

-mike-

[testrider]

Ok, since I couldn't do much about the lines, I believe I tied them up nice and tight.

Here are 2 pics. Again, I would appreciate all comments.

[Toynut]

Have you considered using the existing bracket holes to mount an Adel clamp(s) instead of that Rube Goldberg pull tie setup (no insult intended). You would have the benefit of a clean looking install, plus the strength of a rubber and metal mount, that would be much less subject to heat and vibration stress as would a nylon pull tie.

You can get them at any performance shop in incremental sizes, in steel or aluminum. They are generally under a buck. Try a store that selles Aeroquip hose or Russel fittings.

Good luck, BTW.

[ccriderXX]

Have you considered using the existing bracket holes to mount an Adel clamp(s)

Toynut,

Thanks for the suggestion. I like that idea. I am currently routing my too long brake lines. I will look locally for some clamps.

Here is what they look like at :

McMaster-Carr

[Toynut]

That's what they look like, CC. You can also buy them with an aluminum strap in a performance store that carries Earl's Products.

[Toynut]

Oh, BTW,

Pick up a copy of Street Rodder magazine. You'll find all sorts of trick billet aluminum, and stainless bits if you REALLY want to make it look trick!

[testrider]

Have you considered using the existing bracket holes to mount an Adel clamp(s) instead of that Rube Goldberg pull tie setup (no insult intended). You would have the benefit of a clean looking install, plus the strength of a rubber and metal mount, that would be much less subject to heat and vibration stress as would a nylon pull tie.

You can get them at any performance shop in incremental sizes, in steel or aluminum. They are generally under a buck. Try a store that selles Aeroquip hose or Russel fittings.

Good luck, BTW.

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I saw these type of clamp at Home Depot?

I'm going to see if I can get some and reinstall the clamps.

I appreciate your advise.

-mike-

[ccriderXX]

The clamp suggestion was great! Thanks Toynut. I didn't get Adel clamps, but some I got rubber coated 1/4" clamps at NAPA. A picture is below. I used the bolt locations where I had removed the stock brake lines to attach the new lines in clamps. I took a picture of both left and right sides.

I had ordered speedbleeders with my galfer brake lines. But I had a difficult time priming them. I finally got a mityvac type tool at Harbor Freight. Man that may be the most helpful tool I have! I will not be able to do brakes without one now. It is a must have. Here is a link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=92474

It is item 92474.

[ccriderXX]

Another Brake Bleeding Link at WebBikeworld that talks about using the same bleeder that Harbor Freight sells.

http://tinyurl.com/yvb2q

[CBRBob]

So the lines at the calibers are not straight as the OEM lines and I'm wondering if it's ok.

Please take a look at these pictures and let me know if I should loosen the

banjo bolts at the caliber to try to straighten them up or is this ok?

I would appreciate your comments very much.

You know the small block of aluminum that sticks out of the caliper next to the hole? The line is supposed to butt up against it for orientation, same as the master cylinders. Keep BOTH of them in line and you should have no problem.

[testrider]

The clamp suggestion was great! Thanks Toynut. I didn't get Adel clamps, but some I got rubber coated 1/4" clamps at NAPA. A picture is below. I used the bolt locations where I had removed the stock brake lines to attach the new lines in clamps. I took a picture of both left and right sides.

I had ordered speedbleeders with my galfer brake lines. But I had a difficult time priming them. I finally got a mityvac type tool at Harbor Freight. Man that may be the most helpful tool I have! I will not be able to do brakes without one now. It is a must have. Here is a link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=92474

It is item 92474.

Thanks for the update. Could you post a few pictures at the calipers?

Also, I saw that you use 1/4" clamp. Are you sure you were not squeezing the lines at the clamps? I measured mine and the OD of the lines are almost 3/8" (definitely more than 1/4").

[ccriderXX]

Thanks for the update. Could you post a few pictures at the calipers?

Also, I saw that you use 1/4" clamp. Are you sure you were not squeezing the lines at the clamps? I measured mine and the OD of the lines are almost 3/8" (definitely more than 1/4").

I measured them with my calipers and the Galfer lines are .30" diameter. I actually didn't tighten the clamp all the way down, I loosened it a bit and made sure the line isn't sqeezed.

Here are pictures at the calipers.

[mcoyle101]

Thanks for the update. Could you post a few pictures at the calipers?

Also, I saw that you use 1/4" clamp. Are you sure you were not squeezing the lines at the clamps? I measured mine and the OD of the lines are almost 3/8" (definitely more than 1/4").

I measured them with my calipers and the Galfer lines are .30" diameter. I actually didn't tighten the clamp all the way down, I loosened it a bit and made sure the line isn't sqeezed.

Here are pictures at the calipers.

So what's the result of the brake lines? Was it what you were expecting, because I've been thinking of doing this for a little while. I think stock xx brakes are a tad on the touring side of sport. So if GG pads and some steel lines will help, I'd like to know so I can get some ordered up. Thanks for any help

Marcus

[ccriderXX]

So what's the result of the brake lines? Was it what you were expecting, because I've been thinking of doing this for a little while. I think stock xx brakes are a tad on the touring side of sport. So if GG pads and some steel lines will help, I'd like to know so I can get some ordered up. Thanks for any help

Marcus

I like them, the brakes are firmer. It was a noticable improvement. I will eventually replace the rear lines too. I don't know about the GG pads, I use the EBC HH pads and I love them. That will be what I replace them with.

[sprack]

Quick question. Do the Galfer banjo bolts get torqued to the same 25 lb-ft as the stock ones?

[XXTi]

I think it was 12-14 ft-lbs. The package had recommended torques values, but it's been to long for me to be sure of the numbers.