Suf Daddy Posted May 13, 2004 Share Posted May 13, 2004 97 BlackBird. 29K, third owner. Nobody said changing the front sprocket involved the Clutch Slave cylinder. The service manual doesn't really dedicate a chapter to front sprocket either. So hunting around, and I found the proceedure to undo the rear wheel, chain and now the Slave cylinder to get AT the sprocket. This means draining the clutch fluid reseviour, so when I turn the slave bleeder screw JUNK (redish/brown) comes out. Oh ohh...... So I open (via windscreen removal) the "Dot 4" fluid reseviour and there is GEL like junk everywhere... I clean most of it out. Doctor precision like: try to keep it out of the cylinder piston hole in the bottom. Wipe, rinse with brake cleaner and brake fluid and wick (by three huge paper towels and Q-tips) most of the crud away and out. Then we fill the reseviour with brake fluid (older open can of CLEAR DOT 4) for a flush through the system, and out the slave bleeder. Three times, GENTLY, slowwwwwwwly pulling the clutch lever so the piston (hopefully) doesn't jam on junk and score. Now the reseviour is dry and ultra clean, we put some clean fluid back in the reseviour and put the top on to prevent moisture rust while I do stuff over the next few days............... Here's my Q's: 1. Do I need to replace the slave cylinder (undoing next) 2. Should I replace the clutch Master cylinder and piston assembly? 3. There is a little metal clip in the bottom of the reseviour, how is it oriented? 4. Will failure be obvious after I refill and bleed? 5. Should I bet this proceedure thwarted failure down the road? D: Hookers Plenty of Photos too......... -Suf Daddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted May 13, 2004 Share Posted May 13, 2004 Just bleed the system, flushing with new brake fluid (from a new, sealed container), until it runs clear at the bleeder. Might want to do this again in a few weeks, just to make sure you've given it a thorough flush. No parts have to be replaced, either, as long as everything is working OK. You can remove the sprocket cover with the slave intact, and it won't push out on you, as long as you don't pull in the clutch lever. No bleeding is required to replace the sprocket, but you should change out your clutch fluid periodically (like when it changes color). Hope it helps........ :???: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdxx Posted May 13, 2004 Share Posted May 13, 2004 It's not clear to me in your post whether or not you used a vacuum type bleeder, or just tried to pump fresh fluid through. If not, my advice would be to buy one at an auto parts store; it's entirely worth the cost. Pull fresh fluid through until it's clear and free of air, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 13, 2004 Share Posted May 13, 2004 I hope you didn't mess up the seals with the brake cleaner. Nothing goes in the sealed system but new brake fluid. Brake cleaner is for exterior work, rotors exterior of calipers, etc. For sprocket change you don't have to bleed the system. There is 1 bolt that can stay in and hold the assembly together. Looks like you got in there in the nick of time, I've never seen the stuff gel before. :shock: Change ALL the brake fluid too. I'm sure it was never done also. Do this every other year. Keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suf Daddy Posted May 13, 2004 Author Share Posted May 13, 2004 Just the INFO I'm looking for. Which one of the three bolts on the slave assembly do I leave in?....just to remove the front sprocket cover. I'm writing a web page about it. I'll post pictures soon. I have a brake bleeder for a car, we blew junk out with the brake cleaner CAN (it said safe...) and immediately flushed the system by gravity replenishing the reseviour with clean brake fluid 3 - 4 times. I know brake fluid's hydroscopic (absorbs moisture) that's why they say use a sealed can. Previously open one is fine for flushing................. All an open can would do is accelerate rust internally from the moisture and lower the boiling temperature of the fluid. :!: Thanks Gent(s): -Suf Daddy Northman said: You can remove the sprocket cover with the slave intact, and it won't push out on you, as long as you don't pull in the clutch lever. No bleeding is required to replace the sprocket, but you should change out your clutch fluid periodically (like when it changes color). AND For sprocket change you don't have to bleed the system. There is 1 bolt that can stay in and hold the assembly togetherKeep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted May 13, 2004 Share Posted May 13, 2004 It's the one that appears to be more central on the cover. The perimeter bolts are the ones you remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 It's about imposible to explain without a pic. If you have the service manual it's the 1 short bolt, the rest are long and go through the sprocket cover to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suf Daddy Posted May 14, 2004 Author Share Posted May 14, 2004 Could the PO put automatic transmission fluid in the clutch? Would that explain the gel? The clutch (I thought) worked mint as do the brakes - realizing they are separate systems just sharing brake fluid as their hydraulics. I'll post photos soon. Thanks Northman and Pete: Ding, ding ding ding ding............. Both those replies narrow down the three remaining bolts around the slave. It makes sense that the perimeter bolts (when looking at the whole sprocket cover) would be more related to the sprocket cover than the centralized one immediately around the slave. Three immediately surround the slave, five total on the sprocket cover. -Suf Daddy It's about imposible to explain without a pic. Â If you have the service manual it's the 1 short bolt, the rest are long and go through the sprocket cover to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 If you were to put ATF in the clutch master, the result would be the rubbers swelling in both the master & slave, as well as swelling the pressure line itself. End result is replacement of all three. :mad: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 DOT 4 BRAKE FLUID ONLY! Not yelling just emphasizing. :wink: No brake cleaner, WD 40, chain lube, ATF, Dave's "special" lube, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suf Daddy Posted May 20, 2004 Author Share Posted May 20, 2004 Now that things are apart: HOW do I get the front sprocket off? Enginee's in gear but with the chain swap and the rear wheel off, no way to brake the rear wheel in gear and break it free. Do I have to put the rear BACK on and redo thing just to undo this front sprocket? Slave rod has crud/rust mid way on it, should I pull it out and clean it off? TIA -Suf Daddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBR-RR-XX-CESS Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 Now that things are apart:Do I have to put the rear BACK on and redo thing just to undo this front sprocket?Slave rod has crud/rust mid way on it, should I pull it out and clean it off? TIA -Suf Daddy Yes and yes, use back brake to help hold from rotating with a long breaker bar on the sprocket bolt. Learning by trial and error is so much fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 20, 2004 Share Posted May 20, 2004 Always study in the manual the entire procedure before you start ripping in. You could try putting trans in top gear and breaking bolt loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suf Daddy Posted May 21, 2004 Author Share Posted May 21, 2004 Thank you CBR RR XX CESS and :poke: Pete in PA. .....read the manual....LOL. and Rock: at 47 ft lbs the sprocket didn't warrant air tools. The service manual says wheel on, in sixth gear and brake on. So I figure the chain is the key (Thank God I didn't cut it off - which makes my NEXT problem - see CHAIN in garage posts-) so I figured out the shaft rotation so I don't torque the motor in reverse........ I did Shock TAP the bolt head with a hammer. (okay, it WAS a pipe wrench....I said TAP damn it.) Then got out of my problem by wrapping the chain and the swingarm in a protective strap, then "C" clamping the chain to the swingarm to keep the sprocket/chain from turning. I went for first gear (easiest) now I'm proud of myself, for a minute. MORE: see my Chain thread started while I thumb through the DAMN service book. - Suf Daddy HOW do I get the front sprocket off? From the sounds of it you have the fairing off. And you don't have air tools. Put the engine in 1st gear. Socket, extension, and breaker bar on the "special bolt" that holds the sprocket. Put a little counterclockwise tension on it, then have somebody hit the bar with a hammer. The shock should break it free. If that doesn't work, suck it up, throw the wheel and chain on, and place a wooden bar across the spoke and the swingarm to lock the rear. You don't have to mess with getting the rear caliper back on, or the chain tight...it's only going to pull on one side...you just need a little help. Slave rod has crud/rust mid way on it, should I pull it out and clean it off? Yes, with the fairing off it pulls right out. Scrape the gunk off, grease it slightly, and slide it back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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