Warchild Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 NLH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 If you take resistance readings at all 3 yellow wires it shoud be .22-.26 ohms. Then check for continuity to ground from all 3, there should be none. I had my Sabre's stator rewound. It was sent out of state and came back better then new. No dimming of headlight at idle. Sorry don't know where it was done. :cry: The Electrex should be a good unit though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warchild Posted March 5, 2004 Author Share Posted March 5, 2004 NLH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severdog Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 At first all the preliminary tests check out good, but sure enough, when I get to the point where I am measuring AC voltage between all three legs of the stator (bottom of pg 2 from above link), the tests fail. In this test, a good stator will have all three legs outputting the same voltage, and this voltage needs to be over 50 volts AC. These measurements are taken at 5000 RPM. WC- The AC voltage between the three stator legs will only go up to 50VAC *if* you are running it free of the VRR. Once it's connected to the VRR, the regulator will load it down to the 18VAC that you're seeing. You don't want to run a free stator at 5k rpm for very long as the fucker can arc over on you (and punch holes in the insulation) due to the potential that you're generating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warchild Posted March 5, 2004 Author Share Posted March 5, 2004 But even connected, shouldn't they all be pushing 18 volts? One leg is about 5-6 volts AC, the other leg fluctuates wildly between 11-14 volts AC, and the third one is the 18 volt leg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severdog Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 But even connected, shouldn't they all be pushing 18 volts?One leg is about 5-6 volts AC, the other leg fluctuates wildly between 11-14 volts AC, and the third one is the 18 volt leg. I recently took a bunch of measurements on my old 28A ST electrical system before I ripped it out and upgraded it. * With the stator plugged in to the VRR, I measured 12.0Vrms between any two phases at a fast idle speed of 2k rpm. I didn't rev it higher than that, but would suspect that I'd see something closer to 18Vrms at 5k rpm. * With the stator UNPLUGGED from the VRR, the phase-phase voltage on the yellow wires was about 24Vrms at 1000rpm, and about 60Vrms at 3000 rpm. I know that these systems are different, but they're essentially the same in that they have a PM-excited stator driving an outboard Regulator/Rectumfrier. So the specific rms voltages may vary with the system, but you're correct in that all phase-phase measurements should be within about 10% of each other. A resistance measurement might be a good test at this point. Measure phase-phase, and phase-ground for each. These should be consistent. Make sure to "zero out" your DVM as you're measuring fractional ohmage. But the fact that you've swapped a known good VRR leads me to agree with you that your stator be toast, mon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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