everydayrider99 Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Wondering how many MPG people get in comparison to some details. I would like to see how some of these details effect MPG, guessing that various bikes of the same make and year cannot possibly vary much in MPG. It has to be the different riding styles and aerodynamic of rider sizes. The bike itself is relatively aerodynamic, but when you throw on a big fatty, you create much more drag. I am averaging 30 MPG with the following.... 99 bird stock pipes. (K&N filter) Height: 6'3" Weight: 215 Windscreen:Stock Mostly highway riding at indicated 85-90 mph. Commuting. (no tickets in my life) wood being knocked on. Altitude: I know FI takes care of this mostly, but 0 to 1000 ft. Do you tuck? not your balls.. but how do you ride, sitting upright, or lean on the tank? I tuck as much as possible. any other shit? The main thing I am thinking here is aerodynamics. A taller wider person just cannot tuck as well, creating much more wind drag. I know speed has a lot to do with it as wind drag grows exponentially with speed. So when making comparisons, I would like to see how some other shit comes into play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Altitude: I know FI takes care of this mostly, but 0 to 1000 ft. When you are talking mileage, altitude is extremely important with FI. More air = more fuel. Most of my riding starts at 5,000 feet and goes up. My mileage is usually in the mid 40's to low 50's. I've gone to Arkansas twice for OZARXX. My mileage on those trips is more like mid to upper 30's to low 40's. The only thing different is the altitude. This is on my Busa, which typically does better on fuel than the BlackBirds I ride with. (Except EVLXX) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptxyz Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 everyday, you're in the ballpark. if the bike's running well (fuel pressure regulator and leaky vaccum lines fixed, brakes not draggin', tire pressures up to spec.), your throttle hand will be the biggest single factor. in my experience ('97 carbed & jetted with yoshi full system, unknown tall screen & '00 all stock - both bikes had my givi 52 liter tail box); 25-42 mpg. i'm about 5'8", 145 lbs. 25 mpg is my daily commute, about 8 miles each way with sometimes heavy freeway traffic - i ride like i stole it! 42 mpg riding with a group of friends on highway 1 weekend traffic. i experienced the high and low on each bike. i don't think your size / weight has that much to do with your mpg on such a powerful heavy bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 weight plays more into the starting than maintaning speed. you have to get the weight into motion after thats it much more easy. I am about 220lb stock gearing, pcIIIr tuned for normal use till the tach goes past 6.5k rpms then she will give the extra fuel needed, Leo Vince slip-on, and a K&N filter, windscreen is a Cheetah, (slight curl up top) I got 43mpg a month or so ago and I was happy as a pig in shit.. Don't tuck in my balls or on my bike unless its raining or I am going past 125mph, I am however low on the bike at a giant 5'9" tall and slide around the bike quite a bit with my custom made baby seal leather seat. Basically mu fuel mileage from 125 - 240 miles per tank depending on what I am doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 This is on my Busa, which typically does better on fuel than the BlackBirds I ride with. (Except EVLXX) Excusses excusses..... Busa rider..... Geez. I get a little better mileage than most... Well Ok, in the grand scheme of things, maybe a lot better. .... As for your questions Everyday... yes all that factors in and MORE.. Like Gearing, bearings, overall engine mileage, chain life, chain lube, etc, etc. Just educated guessing here, but you could probably gain 3-5 mpg if you just slow down and maintain 70-80. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Good info, I am surprised about the altitude change. I too ride like I stole it. Maybe I will go a few days to work at 70 mph and see what happens. Sorry to get so technical with this, but when I plan on putting 100,000 miles on this bike and I am currently only at 16000.... those 5-10 MPG are going to make a big fucking difference in the total riding cost of my bike. Keep it coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 curious how many miles is your commute and what tires are you running and psi? I have a 94 mile round trip for work. I run BT0-16's and get about 4500 miles max out of them. Run 40 - 42 psi depending on if I am playing or going for a boring slabbing ride. I absolutely love these tires, best tire I have ever rode on as they just stick like glue, give great feedback, and the mileage is actually better than some other sport and sport-touring tires I have chewed up in 3000 - 3500 miles. I don't ride to work for the very reason of burning a set of $250 tires up in a month just from riding to work and playing on the weekends. Actually looked at getting a cruiser and slapping some hard as cast iron tires on them and get about 15,000 miles or so for commuting back and forth to work.. I love riding but actually costly for commuting for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Oh and.... 99-00 bikes have a factory programing glich... so... if you're not going to run a PC2, (The only way I know of to partially fix the glich), you need to always be slightly on the gas, or slightly off the gas. But, this usual only affects cruising at 45-70 mph, as this is when the throttle possition sensor can hit a 5% reading often. What happens is.. at 5% TP under a light load steady state riding condition... the Bike goes extremely Rich, like 11:1 AFR, and yes you can hit it repeatedly at 65 mph on flat slab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 I am currently running some cheap o's. Shinko 009 Raven. Very comparable to the Dunlops I had before. They are great for warm weather, and dryness. It hasnt rained here in almost 2 months... fire season, yay. I can break them loose a little getting on it hard around turns, but for me... it is kind is of fun to control a small drift and leave some rubber on the road. They have about 3000 miles on them, the rear will need replacing in another 1000. Maybe more, but for the price, fuck it I will get a new one. Old man down the street has a tire changer and balance. I like free. To add to the cruiser comment, I have a 97 Magna, with 'sport touring tires'. I know the Magna is ballsier than most cruisers, but I can break the back tire loose pretty easily through turns. Not as much control as the Blackbird and it sketches me out a little bit. I do not use it to commute, after commuting on the blackbird... no fuckin way. It is for short jots around town and down to the local biker bar. I guess it depends on what type of cruiser you are thinking, 80 HP is too much for rock hard tires. Get a Hardley... you can probably run a cement based tire on that without breaking loose. kRYPT also... what kind of car do you drive? You must get some bad ass MPG to make up for the cost of burning tires. The way I look at it, new cars that get 40 MPG cost you $25 k, and you will probably get 200 k miles out of the newer cars. The blackbird cost me $2800, and I will probably get 100,000 miles out of it. You have to factor in the this cost. So for every mile I drive, it costs me 2.8 cents per mile. That new $25 k car at 200000 miles will have cost 12.5 cents per mile. I may be thinking too much into this... My Jag S type-R only gets about 20 MPG, and I can burn up a reat set in 5000 miles at $400 a pair. So I am basically a dick if I don't commute on my bike in sunny SoCal. 65 mile commute, 3 miles until i get to the highway. Sooo 59 miles highway, 6 miles city. EVLXX - I dont like the sound of this glitch you are talking about. I have read some crap about it before, but was unsure. I am a couple beers deep, time to pull the carbs on the magna and rejet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hankd Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 2002 stock aside from D&D slipons and Givi screen. 6' 210 lbs Mostly commuting 80 miles round trip, 1/2 hwy, 1/2 backroads. 1 or 2 spirited blasts per day. I track my mileage with the Gasbag app...over 6000 miles so far. Showing 36.5 mpg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Oh and.... 99-00 bikes have a factory programing glich... so... if you're not going to run a PC2, (The only way I know of to partially fix the glich), you need to always be slightly on the gas, or slightly off the gas. But, this usual only affects cruising at 45-70 mph, as this is when the throttle possition sensor can hit a 5% reading often. What happens is.. at 5% TP under a light load steady state riding condition... the Bike goes extremely Rich, like 11:1 AFR, and yes you can hit it repeatedly at 65 mph on flat slab. Interesting- I have a 2000 model, and never knew about this glitch, and have never felt it. My mileage runs low 40's at best (Illinois-600' above sea level). Goes on reserve at about 200 miles. XX is mechanically stock except for a K&N air filter. Next ride, I'm going to try to feel this. You obviously found this remapping yours, but did you notice it before that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 I bought a Hyundai Sonata on March 3rd. Getting about 32 or so mpg out of it . Got just over 11,000 miles on it since buying it. Could have kept my Charger but wanted something with a warranty and a lot less miles and better gas mileage. When I finally move closer to work this won't be so much of an issue. If I rode to work everyday would be close to 25k miles a yr just to and fro not including other crap.. tires $1375 mounting $220 chain/sprockets $275 oil/filter $224 gas $2031 (roughly 625 gallons used) @ $3.20 a gallon Wont worry about smaller stuff Gas $2500 (roughly 781 gallons used) @ $3.20 a gallon oil/filter $100 tires $250 should get 2 yrs or more out of a set so $500 cut in half and mounted for free. (wish they had bike tires) Car payment $4800 Bike = $4125 per yr for my paid for XX (new bike at $300 a month is an extra $3600 a yr so $7725) Car = $7650 per yr. with payment ($2850 without) they are close depending on how you look at it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicholy Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 My '99 that I sold I got around 30-34 most of the time. 5'8", 185 Highway, ride like you 80-90. I just am NOT comfortable at 70. Don't know why. I just get real antsy at that speed. I settle in and get comfortable around 80. My commute is 17 miles one way. 12 highway, 5 stop and go surface streets. Usually ran a touring double bubble screen. Stock other than that. Tires, I had pilot powers, Pirelli Diablos, and Pilot Road 2s. Usually had them at 40 psi. Chain always lubed with 80-90 oil. Hey, maybe that's why I ran those speeds on the highway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 It has to be the speed, I would like to hear from some guys who have the self control to commute at 70-75. Especially people getting over 40 mpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianmacza Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 97' with stock jets, slipons, raised generic screen with a flip-lip at 1600 meters altitude. I do an 80km round trip with mixed freeway and city every day and average 17.3km per liter at my usual pace (140kph+ on freeway, about 60 to 80 on city roads - our popo are usually lookin' for easier targets than bikers). I have gone -1 on the front sprocket and installed a speedohealer so the speedo reads pretty close to dead on. My fuel light comes on generally with around 290km on the odo tank after tank. Oh... and lane splitting is allowed so no stop-start bullshit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Oh and.... 99-00 bikes have a factory programing glich... so... if you're not going to run a PC2, (The only way I know of to partially fix the glich), you need to always be slightly on the gas, or slightly off the gas. But, this usual only affects cruising at 45-70 mph, as this is when the throttle possition sensor can hit a 5% reading often. What happens is.. at 5% TP under a light load steady state riding condition... the Bike goes extremely Rich, like 11:1 AFR, and yes you can hit it repeatedly at 65 mph on flat slab. Interesting- I have a 2000 model, and never knew about this glitch, and have never felt it. My mileage runs low 40's at best (Illinois-600' above sea level). Goes on reserve at about 200 miles. XX is mechanically stock except for a K&N air filter. Next ride, I'm going to try to feel this. You obviously found this remapping yours, but did you notice it before that? No.. I did not. You are correct.. once I did the mapping and found it, then I knew why my tail pipes were all Black with Soot. Later I reloaded the Zero Map, which basically returns the bike to stock mapping, and again I was able to feel and see it. When I say see it... it's because I have a Wide band Air Fuel Ratio gauge mounted on my bike. Although it's not as noticeable it is still there. What it feels like is Deceleration..... Like you closed the throttle a little more, when in fact you did not. I'll admit, it is hard to feel on a stock bike, because the AFR change from 13:1 to 11:1 is not that bad... but it is enough to cause you to loose 10% in your fuel mileage for those periods. When I leaned out my bike to run at 15:1 in those same ranges... the impact was HUGE, and it felt like someone hitting the Brakes. If you look for it... carefully and methodically you'll find it... you'll feel it.... and then... it'll drive you Nutz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 Oh and.... 99-00 bikes have a factory programing glich... so... if you're not going to run a PC2, (The only way I know of to partially fix the glich), you need to always be slightly on the gas, or slightly off the gas. But, this usual only affects cruising at 45-70 mph, as this is when the throttle possition sensor can hit a 5% reading often. What happens is.. at 5% TP under a light load steady state riding condition... the Bike goes extremely Rich, like 11:1 AFR, and yes you can hit it repeatedly at 65 mph on flat slab. Interesting- I have a 2000 model, and never knew about this glitch, and have never felt it. My mileage runs low 40's at best (Illinois-600' above sea level). Goes on reserve at about 200 miles. XX is mechanically stock except for a K&N air filter. Next ride, I'm going to try to feel this. You obviously found this remapping yours, but did you notice it before that? No.. I did not. You are correct.. once I did the mapping and found it, then I knew why my tail pipes were all Black with Soot. Later I reloaded the Zero Map, which basically returns the bike to stock mapping, and again I was able to feel and see it. When I say see it... it's because I have a Wide band Air Fuel Ratio gauge mounted on my bike. Although it's not as noticeable it is still there. What it feels like is Deceleration..... Like you closed the throttle a little more, when in fact you did not. I'll admit, it is hard to feel on a stock bike, because the AFR change from 13:1 to 11:1 is not that bad... but it is enough to cause you to loose 10% in your fuel mileage for those periods. When I leaned out my bike to run at 15:1 in those same ranges... the impact was HUGE, and it felt like someone hitting the Brakes. If you look for it... carefully and methodically you'll find it... you'll feel it.... and then... it'll drive you Nutz. It is driving me nuts thinking about it.... now I am going to shit myself tomorrow on my way to work when I feel it. Then I am going to shit myself again when I convince to buy a PC i can't afford. Spanks EVL, spanks a lot. Starting tomorrow, I am going to ride no more than 75 mph for the entire tank of gas and see what happens. No revving past 7K, baby it. I only got 130 out of the last tank, I will blame myself for that one if ya know what im sayin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Oh and.... 99-00 bikes have a factory programing glich... so... if you're not going to run a PC2, (The only way I know of to partially fix the glich), you need to always be slightly on the gas, or slightly off the gas. But, this usual only affects cruising at 45-70 mph, as this is when the throttle possition sensor can hit a 5% reading often. What happens is.. at 5% TP under a light load steady state riding condition... the Bike goes extremely Rich, like 11:1 AFR, and yes you can hit it repeatedly at 65 mph on flat slab. Interesting- I have a 2000 model, and never knew about this glitch, and have never felt it. My mileage runs low 40's at best (Illinois-600' above sea level). Goes on reserve at about 200 miles. XX is mechanically stock except for a K&N air filter. Next ride, I'm going to try to feel this. You obviously found this remapping yours, but did you notice it before that? No.. I did not. You are correct.. once I did the mapping and found it, then I knew why my tail pipes were all Black with Soot. Later I reloaded the Zero Map, which basically returns the bike to stock mapping, and again I was able to feel and see it. When I say see it... it's because I have a Wide band Air Fuel Ratio gauge mounted on my bike. Although it's not as noticeable it is still there. What it feels like is Deceleration..... Like you closed the throttle a little more, when in fact you did not. I'll admit, it is hard to feel on a stock bike, because the AFR change from 13:1 to 11:1 is not that bad... but it is enough to cause you to loose 10% in your fuel mileage for those periods. When I leaned out my bike to run at 15:1 in those same ranges... the impact was HUGE, and it felt like someone hitting the Brakes. If you look for it... carefully and methodically you'll find it... you'll feel it.... and then... it'll drive you Nutz. Eric, are you sure that this is a ECU glitch and not a fault in the TPS? I could easily imagine a bad spot in the potentiometer which would occur in the area where is sits for long periods. I believe they are a wire wound unit typically, but still could develop a bad spot. That said, I would expect it to go in a lean direction for a TPS fault unless the ECU is dominated by manifold pressure signal in that operating range. I don't know how the programming is computing the fuel, so just a guess on my part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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