CBRXX Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Anyone ever use these?? Feedback? http://www.speedbleeder.com/ I have a full set of stainless lines that have been waiting forever to install. These sure look like would help. The sizing chart lists the SB8125L for front calipers and clutch, and a slightly longer SB8125LL on the rear caliper. Pictures here, these ones are the two at the very bottom center row http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm Can anyone confirm they are different for the front/rear calipers? A seller on ebay was selling a set of 6 the same part for all calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiremanBob Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 I put a set on every vehicle I own when it's time to bleed hydraulics. They work better than any other method I've tried. Since I haven't messed with my Bird's brakes or clutch yet I don't know about the size difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRXX Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 Thanks for feedback, I think will def give these a try. I did just look at RonAyers.com online parts fiche, and it listed two different stock bleeders for the rear caliper. The image shows the same "number" for each bleeder, and that number is listed twice, with two different part numbers. One of the two is same as front. Nothing is simple. They are $7 each, i may just order 2 of each if nobody else knows. This system has got to be a PITA to bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Only down side is that you'd have to have drain lines to EVERY nipple at the same time. If you changed fluid often enough, I'm sure it'd be worth it. I put the braided lines on a year ago. It was a pain to get the air out (had to suck on the line to prime the master cylinder), but I don't anticipate doing that again anytime in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiremanBob Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Only down side is that you'd have to have drain lines to EVERY nipple at the same time. If you changed fluid often enough, I'm sure it'd be worth it. Actually, you don't have to have them open all at the same time. General procedure on cars is to do the farthest caliper from the master first, then work back towards the master, one slave at a time. Whatever the procedure is in the manual for the Bird's linked system, I imagine it should work the same whether you have speed bleeders or standard bleed screws. The only difference is that you don't have to manually close each bleed screw after every pump of the lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRXX Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 Zero, if I understand what you are saying, I think it's incorrect. You still only bleed one at a time, and don't need multiple bleed lines. This does sound like a sucky job. Have to do the clutch line too. I bought a +2" set, and it's fluid is getting dark anyway, and 9yrs old. Can anybody else offer tips on this job? FYI, I just figured it out the difference on the bleeders, I had to dig out the PDF scan of the OEM parts fiche. It shows the different OEM part number is for the 1997-2000 rear caliper. On the 2001-2003, the rear uses same bleeder as front. Of course, I check the OEM bleeder for the clutch, and it is different from the brakes, but the SpeedBleeder website lists the same one as the brakes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Ah. You are correct. Didn't look at it that way. Maybe they would be worth it then. Too bad the XX has a lot of nipples compared to other things. I'd get more out of this on my truck than the XX. As far as the clutch line, I found it to be a bit of a bitch. Original is part hard line and you have to work that braided line around some, but once you get it in, it's easy enough. Zip tie in several places once you find how to best run it. I wish I got a couple inches more on the brake line. When I put in the VFR bars I was really taking the limit of how much free slack was provided. Should have thought ahead for easier fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRXX Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 I have the VFR bars too. The stainless lines I got were +2". I'm now thinking of trying to get more height, but may start having issues with the switch wires. Prob going to try the Jaws risers first, as I dont want to mess with my heated grips and throttle lock, since that is all working well. The Helibars for a VFR look like a good option, or maybe the convertibars. I def have to get the lines on first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 They are nice no doubt but my way of bleeding the system on the XX and other bikes and cars is simple, quick, and if done correctly you can do it by yourself and requires you to drink a beer. Also never get brake fluid on your hands or anything. but like said they are a nice design and should help alot of people. Many people neglect their braking system and its a vital part if you wanna stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 They are nice no doubt but my way of bleeding the system on the XX and other bikes and cars is simple, quick, and if done correctly you can do it by yourself and requires you to drink a beer. Also never get brake fluid on your hands or anything. but like said they are a nice design and should help alot of people. Many people neglect their braking system and its a vital part if you wanna stop. Hows that... have your friend do it for you...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 They are nice no doubt but my way of bleeding the system on the XX and other bikes and cars is simple, quick, and if done correctly you can do it by yourself and requires you to drink a beer. Also never get brake fluid on your hands or anything. but like said they are a nice design and should help alot of people. Many people neglect their braking system and its a vital part if you wanna stop. Hows that... have your friend do it for you...? That would be nice. Get a Yuengling and drink it. Keep cap in your pocket. Get a 2ft length of clear fish tank air line remove tops and suck out old fluid with small Turkey baster or a large medicine dropper. Put in empty beer bottle Fill with fresh fluid put end of hose on bleeder valve and the other end in the bottle Crack bleeder valve on caliper and pump lever. as long as there is fluid in the line it can't suck in air by accident. Pump till line runs clear and close valve. Top of fluid and move to next. And repeat. Can also do the hydro clutches as it has a bleeder valve. When done put the air hose in beer bottle and place cap back on beer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanix Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I have built a pressure pot for every vehicle I have. Basically, it's a 10 psi feed into a cap for whatever I am bleeding. I fill the reservoir, turn on the air and open the bleed. Then I watch the reservoir and release pressure and fill until I get clear fluid. I have a flat plate with a silicone film on it that I clamp on motorcycle or odd type reservoirs. I have a lot of free time on my hands... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrdrydr Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 As I recall, I ordered 5 of the SB8125L size for the front calipers and the clutch. For the rear caliper, I ordered 2 of the SB8125LL size I ordered them directly from Speed Bleeder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewtoy Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I have built a pressure pot for every vehicle I have. Basically, it's a 10 psi feed into a cap for whatever I am bleeding. I fill the reservoir, turn on the air and open the bleed. Then I watch the reservoir and release pressure and fill until I get clear fluid. I have a flat plate with a silicone film on it that I clamp on motorcycle or odd type reservoirs. I have a lot of free time on my hands... Man, that is a great idea. That can be made from stuff laying around the shop! Will be stealing your idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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