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Dualstar installation help


flyv65

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...So I got a set of Dualstar heated grips for XXmas, and started to install them yesterday. The grips themselves went on like a piece of cake, and routing the wires was no problem (I'm putting the switch on the upper left inner fairing panel-lotsa room for the wiring)...but now I'm trying to decide on two things: where to ground the grips (preferably to the dash), and where to tap into switched power (I was thinking about using the low-beam feed 'cuz its easy to get to).

What has everybody else done? Any pointers or tips?

Bryan...might try HID lighting, too...

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OK, I tapped into the lowbeam and grounded to the hornmount- then went for a ride to test the heated grips (any excuse, eh?). After 28 miles I pulled back into the garage and couldn't shake life back into my cold fingers...obviouslly, the gips didn't work.

So where did I fuck up? Tapping into the lowbeam (I've heard that the headlight would draw the power over the grips [but then why would the instructions tel me to do that])? Bad ground? I'm starting to think I should've tapped into the instrument light (but it was such a bitch to get at-and wrapped up in some SERIOUS etape).

I'm tweaked that I'm having these problems getting the grips to work properly, but I'm about ready to throw myself on the mercy of the tech assistance line....it's too fukkin' cold to ride w/out some kind of heat, eh?

Bryan...don't want to wear hippo hands...

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When you flip the switch on the grips, can you see any change in the output of the headlight, other words can you see more load on the brightness of the light ? You should. I tapped to the instrument light's wire for power. You should feel the heat quite soon. Of course unless you isolated the left bar, it won't feel as warm as the right one at first. I used some aluminum tape from an auto store, to reflect the heat out of the handlebar.....

Hope you can fix your problem. Heated grips rock !

Cheers,

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Bryan-

First off, what I recommend that everyone do that installs electrical accessories on their bike.....is to install a switched, auxiliary fuse panel.

I wish I had taken photos of mine, but it's relatively easy to do. You might want to study Warchild's layout for some hints:

http://www.superblackbird.com/farkledass.cfm

I think it an extremely BAD idea to "steal" power from other sources like headlights, radiator fans, etc. Not only does this compromise performance of both items when they're running, it also creates liabilities. You switch your grips on, the fuse blows due to either a short in the wiring or some other gremlin....and then you're out of light.

So I always recommend that you run the grip heaters from their own fuse. I also think on the Bird that it's best to run a ground terminal strip right to the battery negative lead. Plenty of room underneath the seat.

Your problem is likely that your ground isn't really "grounding" anything and you're not drawing any current through the circuit.

yell if you have questions........

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Hey thanks, guys...I'd already decided to put in a relay for the grips and quit screwing around with the instructions they sent. Now I'm thinking of using the license plate lamp to "switch" the relay-I'll post how it goes.

Bryan...didn't want to work today, anyway...

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Bryan-

just about any switched power source can be used to fire the relay for the fuse panel.....the current draw of the coil is negligible.

You're on the right track.

Ultimately, it *really* pays to take your time and do a good job with these types of mods, since they're subject to a lot of abuse and vibration. They will fail when you need them most unless you overengineer the installation.

Good practices are soldering/heat shrink/taping joints, soldering crimped lugs, using more tie wraps than you'd think, good wire looming, never using crimped tap splices, etc.

The dual-stars are a very good product. I had them on my Bird.

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