Connector Rehab

[mikesail]

This post is a reply to the problem XXSIVSPD is having, but applies in general to connector issues.

It is really a shame to lose a connector if you ever want to pull things apart later. It is true that a soldered connection is about as good a connection as you can make, but do you really want to lose the ability to unplug wires as originally intended?

Remember that a connector is actually three connections in series. First is the wire crimped to one half of the connector, then comes the connector male to female joint, and third is the other wire crimp connection. Cleaning the male to female joint may let you miss the actual bad connection, it may well be that the crimp is bad. Typically the action of pulling on a poor connection will cause it to temporarily work again, so most likely you never really saw the bad connection. I'll bet that you have a bad crimp.

For any crimp-on connection that I want to rely on, I prefer to solder the wire to the terminal right after it is crimped, then it will not ever pull out or lose connectivity because of corrosion. Most of these connectors will come apart with using a small jewelers screwdriver to release the locking tab. You can pull each connector "pin" out and visually check the crimp area, then solder as needed. The wire insulation will tend to get melted a bit, but if you are careful the melted part should be minimal and not extend past the connector body.

Packing a connector with grease is ok after you know it is good, it will keep it free of corrosion. I prefer to put RTV in the connector around the wires where they exit to give a quick and cheap seal, it keeps them pretty clean and also gives the wire a bit of a strain relief.

The connector Honda uses is adequate for carrying the electrical load, otherwise you would have problems on day one. If you can keep it clean and tight as it was when new,it will work indefinitely. Vibration and corrosion is what causes a crimp to fail over time, soldering will eliminate that concern. Dirt and corrosion are the cause of the terminals connection failure, sealing up the body will mostly prevent this from happening. Grease, tape, RTV are all viable ways to seal the terminals.

[XXSIVSPD]

How easy or difficult do you feel it would be to attempt addressing each connector relative to the usual cut & solder method?

I'm all for leaving the 2 plugs intact if I can, but I know with my limited mechanical skillset that I'm best off choosing the path with lowest odds of failure.

[mikesail]

How easy or difficult do you feel it would be to attempt addressing each connector relative to the usual cut & solder method?

I'm all for leaving the 2 plugs intact if I can, but I know with my limited mechanical skillset that I'm best off choosing the path with lowest odds of failure.

It really is very easy. The only issue is getting a stiff pin i.e. jewelers screwdriver or similar, into the opening past the terminal to release it. If you look into the open connector you can see the little tab that jams into the plastic. While pushing the wire back into the connector from the rear, you slide the screwdriver into the front of the connector until it gets past the tab, then simply pull the wire out and it is clear. To reinsert you simply push the terminal back in and the tab will lock again. comprende?

[XXSIVSPD]

I think so. When I unearth that plug, I'll give it a shot.

[BackStreet]

Packing a connector with grease is ok after you know it is good, it will keep it free of corrosion. I prefer to put RTV in the connector around the wires where they exit to give a quick and cheap seal, it keeps them pretty clean and also gives the wire a bit of a strain relief.

I have a few questions:

Do you recommend putting dielectric grease in your connectors?

Does someone make a spray cleaner that you could follow with a spray protective grease for electric connectors?

Is there a spray dielectric grease safe for low voltage ECU multi-pin connections?

[mikesail]

Packing a connector with grease is ok after you know it is good, it will keep it free of corrosion. I prefer to put RTV in the connector around the wires where they exit to give a quick and cheap seal, it keeps them pretty clean and also gives the wire a bit of a strain relief.

I have a few questions:

Do you recommend putting dielectric grease in your connectors?

Not normally, I prefer to keep them clean and visible for inspection, grease obscures your view. For something around salt spray, grease would be good to have.

Does someone make a spray cleaner that you could follow with a spray protective grease for electric connectors?

Lots of spray cleaners out there, but nothing that will take off corrosion like a file or sandpaper (or shall I say, coated abrasives) . I don't think that any cleaner would be incompatible with applying grease later.

Is there a spray dielectric grease safe for low voltage ECU multi-pin connections?

I have no knowledge of spray greases.

However, there is nothing special about the ECU connections, the same considerations apply to all connections. The only relevant difference is that some ECU wiring is high impedance, meaning that a weak short or leakage, like from water, will effect the voltage on these circuits whereas the same leakage would not matter on any other normal circuits like ignition, lights, starter, alternator.

[BackStreet]

Packing a connector with grease is ok after you know it is good, it will keep it free of corrosion. I prefer to put RTV in the connector around the wires where they exit to give a quick and cheap seal, it keeps them pretty clean and also gives the wire a bit of a strain relief.

I have a few questions:

Do you recommend putting dielectric grease in your connectors?

Not normally, I prefer to keep them clean and visible for inspection, grease obscures your view. For something around salt spray, grease would be good to have.

Does someone make a spray cleaner that you could follow with a spray protective grease for electric connectors?

Lots of spray cleaners out there, but nothing that will take off corrosion like a file or sandpaper (or shall I say, coated abrasives) . I don't think that any cleaner would be incompatible with applying grease later.

Is there a spray dielectric grease safe for low voltage ECU multi-pin connections?

I have no knowledge of spray greases.

However, there is nothing special about the ECU connections, the same considerations apply to all connections. The only relevant difference is that some ECU wiring is high impedance, meaning that a weak short or leakage, like from water, will effect the voltage on these circuits whereas the same leakage would not matter on any other normal circuits like ignition, lights, starter, alternator.

Thanks!

[XXSIVSPD]

Just wanted to provide some feedback from revisiting this. After reading your suggestions, my plan was to remove each connector from the plug, then clean & solder each crimp connection on the female end of this plug.

I was able to get all of the male & female connectors cleaned up last fall using diamond needle files & some contact cleaner. They still looked great.

I was expecting the crimps to look corroded, loose, or both, which was not the case at all. Each one of the crimps looked very clean & tight. No visible corrosion on the connectors & still fresh looking copper at each one.

In my case, it appears the cause was fitment. Several of the 20 female connectors were very loose & none were what I'd call snug. Not sure if I caused or aggravated this while cleaning them. It's certainly possible.

A friend had some dielectric grease with copper in it. We used a small amount of that inside each female connector after tightening them gently with a needle nose & buttoned it up. Added some silicone around the plug to create a seal.

Only time will tell, but didn't see the light once yesterday in 50 miles.

This all makes some sense. When I did start seeing my FI light, it was always on rough roads.

[mikesail]

Just wanted to provide some feedback from revisiting this. After reading your suggestions, my plan was to remove each connector from the plug, then clean & solder each crimp connection on the female end of this plug.

I was able to get all of the male & female connectors cleaned up last fall using diamond needle files & some contact cleaner. They still looked great.

I was expecting the crimps to look corroded, loose, or both, which was not the case at all. Each one of the crimps looked very clean & tight. No visible corrosion on the connectors & still fresh looking copper at each one.

In my case, it appears the cause was fitment. Several of the 20 female connectors were very loose & none were what I'd call snug. Not sure if I caused or aggravated this while cleaning them. It's certainly possible.

A friend had some dielectric grease with copper in it. We used a small amount of that inside each female connector after tightening them gently with a needle nose & buttoned it up. Added some silicone around the plug to create a seal.

Only time will tell, but didn't see the light once yesterday in 50 miles.

This all makes some sense. When I did start seeing my FI light, it was always on rough roads.

Thanks for the feedback, it really helps to know what the basis of these faults are. Sounds like you're now in good shape.

Sometimes these "faston" connectors are not tempered right, and lose their tension. They will likely never be as tight as desired, but if clean should be fine for low current applications.