cyoungesq Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 A novice wrencher here ... gonna replace front and rear wheel bearings & seals with OEM. Any insights/warnings/advice on methods or tools to use? I had hoped I could just gently tap the bearings out, but am worried about scoring. Should I get a bearing puller? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HANKSXXX Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 I have always used a punch of some sort to remove the bearings. Put the new one's in a freezer overnight and remove only the one you are installing. Make sure the rim where the bearing sits is clean. Don't use the center race for install...outer only. Pretty straightforward job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 a slide bearing puller is maybe 20 bucks and is a great investment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 I always just "rented" a pilot bearing puller and slide hammer from Autozone. FREE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyoungesq Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 awesome .... thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 In some cases you can use the old bearings to pound the new ones in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 AND DON'T FORGET THE BEARING SPACER BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE SECOND BEARING! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC Randy Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 a slide bearing puller is maybe 20 bucks and is a great investment. AND DON'T FORGET THE BEARING SPACER BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE SECOND BEARING! I just changed out my rear wheel bearings last tire change, as one had a rough spot in it. I purchased a blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight and it worked great. I had to put a little heat on the wheel with a map gas torch to get them started and then they came right out. I could have used Jon's advise though, because I DID leave the the spacer out and had to pull one back out. You might check the microfiche because there is an o-ring that seals moisture out that I was glad I ordered with the bearings and seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Could you link to harbor Freight where that 'blind bearing puller' is so I can get the right one? Thanks! a slide bearing puller is maybe 20 bucks and is a great investment. AND DON'T FORGET THE BEARING SPACER BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE SECOND BEARING! I just changed out my rear wheel bearings last tire change, as one had a rough spot in it. I purchased a blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight and it worked great. I had to put a little heat on the wheel with a map gas torch to get them started and then they came right out. I could have used Jon's advise though, because I DID leave the the spacer out and had to pull one back out. You might check the microfiche because there is an o-ring that seals moisture out that I was glad I ordered with the bearings and seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC Randy Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=95987 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LogoMan Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 I just did mine. I used a big long galvanized nail I scrounged up to punch the old bearings out. Used the head of the nail on the inner race and alternated from one side of the bearing to the other while I whacked on the tip. Cudgel provided me with some scrap pieces of round metal stock of the proper dimensions that I used to hammer the new bearings in. I used a piece of wood between the hammer and the round stock and was careful to keep the round stock centered on the outer race of the bearing. I stuck the bearings in the freezer overnight to help matters. BTW, you'll know when the bearing is seated because the pitch of the sound of you hitting on it will change. From a dunk, dunk, dunk, to a dink, dink, dink. I stuck the sprocket hub in the oven at 220 degrees or so as per cudgel's instructions and the well-cooled bearing for that just dropped right in. If you then grab it and pull it out because you can't believe that it actually just fell in like you were told it would, you will need to hammer it in because it will have warmed enough not to drop in again. Doh. I DID remember to put the spacers in. Whew. Make sure the spacer for the rear is straight and inline with the bearings when you're banging that last bearing in or it can get cattywumpis on you and you'll have to pry on it a bit with a screwdriver or something to get it lined up so you can bang that bearing all the way home against it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=95987 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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