Redbird Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Some may recall I installed a relay on the track bike when I eliminated the keyed ignition switch. My logic was the switch I was using wasn't rated for the same amperage as some of the wires I was tying into, better safe than sorry, especially on a track bike. Worked fine. But I did get to thinking about all the guys who don't use relays, route the ignition through the much less stout kill switch, ect. What do I know that they don't? Likely nothing, so why don't they use a relay? Then I realized, the starter, fuel pump and FI already have their own respective relays, what's left that draws any significant amperage? Lights! The larger gauge wires running through the ignition are for the lights. Track bike, no lights, no need for larger gauge wires (though they'll still do just fine), no need for a relay, right? Anyone see any faults in my thinking? Reason I ask is my relay just went tango uniform and I figure I'll just simplify my life and eliminate the damn thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Tim, I agree with your thinking. You should be able to get a toggle or flip switch that can carry 30 - 40 amps for $5.00 or so. Your relay probably wasn't any larger. This way, if we are both wrong, you are still covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Craig, the relay was rated 30 amps. Present switch, which I have no desire to change, is rated 10. The higher amperage switches and associated larger gauge wire are both too large and cumbersome for where and how I have it mounted. If I'm going to stick with 30 amps, I'll replace the relay. I'm thinking 10 amps is plenty to trip the necessary relays to run the bike, that's where I'm going with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 you can do a test with some fuses, but I bet it is not 5 amps on just the ign circuit. should be able to put an amp gauge in line and know too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 you can do a test with some fuses, but I bet it is not 5 amps on just the ign circuit. should be able to put an amp gauge in line and know too. Mmmm. I could check the draw, or I could think "Stan say he'd bet it's not 5 amps, I'm gonna wire it up and hit the switch". Then if something fries, I'm calling you to bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 you can do a test with some fuses, but I bet it is not 5 amps on just the ign circuit. should be able to put an amp gauge in line and know too. Mmmm. I could check the draw, or I could think "Stan say he'd bet it's not 5 amps, I'm gonna wire it up and hit the switch". Then if something fries, I'm calling you to bitch. get in line! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 The max output of the alternator is like 350 watts, or 350/12=30 amps or so. So you already know the total consumption is much less than that. As you've noted the big stuff has its own relays, I can tell you that your old bike runs with just a plug and socket for a kill switch and the current drawn is so low I can't even see a spark. So yes, its just a few amps at best, any switch you can operate by hand will be plenty stout enough. And you'll never be that guy who forget the key to his track bike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 And you'll never be that guy who forget the key to his track bike Too late, I've already been that guy. Okay, it's official, buh-bye, relay. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dion Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Late to this but you're right Tim. Think about it, the only things the kill switch kills are the ECU, primary ignition side and fuel pump(on an FI) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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