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Audiovox ccs-100 cruise control on carb bike?


testrider

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Hi all,

I just ordered an Audiovox ccs-100 cruise control on Amazon.com for $90 shipped.

My XX is a 97 with carb. Does anybody have any pics of the throttle linkage

where the ccs100 cable attached to?

Thanks.

-mike-

PS: This is the only link I found but it's an EFI XX:

http://home.comcast.net/~steve.huminski/cb...ndex_cruise.htm

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Mike,

I may or may not have pictures of it... I'll have to look deeper (but I did not find any in a quick search)

I just bent the cable bracket to fit, and attached it to an engine bolt down there somewhere...

I put the brains/diaphram under the seat, behind where the seat latches, and in front of the tail light...

For attachment to the carb, I first tried just attaching the cable loop around the part on carb 3 that transfers the throttle position to carb 2... That proved to not be enough leverage for the unit, as it would overshoot badly, and wouldn't hold on hills above about 70mph...

I ended up putting a small hole in that flat part that I mentioned above, and putting a 1" long #6 or #8-32 machine screw in it, and using a bunch of nuts to space the eye (attached to the cable) out to the end of the screw. (so that it faces forward and down on closed throttle, and the wire goes in between the bolts, NOT OVER THE TOP (someone on here proved on an FI bird that it can get caught and hold the throttle WFO)

This gave is enough leverage, and toned the response down quite a bit, and it works great.

You will need a vacuum canister and a 3-way check valve (mine is for Buick)... U first used 2" PVC pipe 8" long, 2 end caps, and epoxied a hose barb onto one end... This collapsed from the vacuum and head, in a period of a month or so, but just in the middle... I then used a 2.5" piece of 2" PVC pipe, between 2 ends (read: only about 1/4" between the ends), and it's been just fine for something like 3 years now...

I'll try and get some pictures for you, in the next couple of days...

Mike

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Mike,

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.

- did you drill the hole on the flat part while it was still on the throttle body?

Was there enough room to get a hand drill down there?

- have you tried without a vacuum canister first? I wonder if it works without one?

- why a 3-way check valve? I thought a 1-way check valve and a T-connector is ok?

Something like this:

engine vacuum <----- check valve <------- T-connector<----- canister

Then connect the T-connector to the cruise?

- Did you set the Audiovox switches the same as per the link for the EFI XX?

Thanks again.

-mike-

Mike,

I may or may not have pictures of it... I'll have to look deeper (but I did not find any in a quick search)

I just bent the cable bracket to fit, and attached it to an engine bolt down there somewhere...

I put the brains/diaphram under the seat, behind where the seat latches, and in front of the tail light...

For attachment to the carb, I first tried just attaching the cable loop around the part on carb 3 that transfers the throttle position to carb 2... That proved to not be enough leverage for the unit, as it would overshoot badly, and wouldn't hold on hills above about 70mph...

I ended up putting a small hole in that flat part that I mentioned above, and putting a 1" long #6 or #8-32 machine screw in it, and using a bunch of nuts to space the eye (attached to the cable) out to the end of the screw. (so that it faces forward and down on closed throttle, and the wire goes in between the bolts, NOT OVER THE TOP (someone on here proved on an FI bird that it can get caught and hold the throttle WFO)

This gave is enough leverage, and toned the response down quite a bit, and it works great.

You will need a vacuum canister and a 3-way check valve (mine is for Buick)... U first used 2" PVC pipe 8" long, 2 end caps, and epoxied a hose barb onto one end... This collapsed from the vacuum and head, in a period of a month or so, but just in the middle... I then used a 2.5" piece of 2" PVC pipe, between 2 ends (read: only about 1/4" between the ends), and it's been just fine for something like 3 years now...

I'll try and get some pictures for you, in the next couple of days...

Mike

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Mike,

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.

1 did you drill the hole on the flat part while it was still on the throttle body?

Was there enough room to get a hand drill down there?

2 have you tried without a vacuum canister first? I wonder if it works without one?

3 why a 3-way check valve? I thought a 1-way check valve and a T-connector is ok?

Something like this:

engine vacuum <----- check valve <------- T-connector<----- canister

Then connect the T-connector to the cruise?

4 Did you set the Audiovox switches the same as per the link for the EFI XX?

Thanks again.

-mike-

1 You will have to take the carbs off of the engine, but I didn't have to take them apart from one another, or anything... The drill would have to be coming out of the engine to drill in the right place, at the right angle, otherwise.

2. Tried it without the canister... Needs one.

3. Yeah, that's fine...

4. I set it up per the directions, for a "high power" engine, and hooked both the tach and speedo wires to the tach.

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you for all the info.

When the cruise control is set and when it pulls or releases the throttle linkage, does the hand throttle also move by itself? Do you have to remove your right hand from the throttle when the cruise is engaged?

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