TeXTrain99 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 I have a '99 with KnN filter, 4-2-1 header into a D&D can. I am about to install a PCII and am considering a new exuast can. I surfed around a bit but the web sites I've seen all refer to the CRB1100XX as having the original two can exhaust. I do have the original header and two cans. So I am left with some choices to make: I plan to stay with the current 4-2-1 header and single can if for no other reason than weight savings. How do I pick a single can that will work appropriately? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 I have a '99 with KnN filter, 4-2-1 header into a D&D can. I am about to install a PCII and am considering a new exuast can. I surfed around a bit but the web sites I've seen all refer to the CRB1100XX as having the original two can exhaust. I do have the original header and two cans. So I am left with some choices to make: I plan to stay with the current 4-2-1 header and single can if for no other reason than weight savings. How do I pick a single can that will work appropriately? Measure the outlet diameter on your midpipe. You won't be shopping for a "slip on", which typically mount to OEM headers, but a new end can with the same inlet dimensions and setup as your current D&D. You're getting a little outside the box mounting a different manufacturer's end can to your D&D mid-pipe, but I'm sure it's doable with a little research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeXTrain99 Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 Dang--never thought to consider that....see, that is why I come here. Well, one of the reasons. Determining the outlet diameter of the mid-pipe seems pretty straightforward. How do I go about determine the set up of the D&D can? It was on the bike when I purchased it. Probably a stupid question but what specs make up the set up of an exhaust can? I figure there is a difference in cans designed for 600s vs. 1000s vs. 1137s but couldn't intelligently tell you what those differences might be. Flow rate? Volume? Back pressure? Who knows? I bet somebody on this board does. And thank goodness for that? With out the help here I might have bought a Two Brother can designed for a Nija 250 because it was cheapest one available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Most cans these days are a straight through design, meaning it's just a tube of the same diameter as the inlet with some screen and packing around it. Basically, if you're mid-pipe will slide into it, it'll work. I don't think you need to sweat the length- not that it doesn't matter, but that's getting into some pretty fine tuning unless you end up with one of those 8" shorty cans. One issue I can foresee is the mid-pipe angle. The peg mount on your new can may not line up right with the actual peg if there's a difference in D&D's mid-pipe angle and the intended angle of whatever manufacturer you go with for the can. Do some homework, find and closely examine pics, be prepared to do a little tweaking and you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Most cans these days are a straight through design, meaning it's just a tube of the same diameter as the inlet with some screen and packing around it. Basically, if you're mid-pipe will slide into it, it'll work. I don't think you need to sweat the length- not that it doesn't matter, but that's getting into some pretty fine tuning unless you end up with one of those 8" shorty cans. One issue I can foresee is the mid-pipe angle. The peg mount on your new can may not line up right with the actual peg if there's a difference in D&D's mid-pipe angle and the intended angle of whatever manufacturer you go with for the can. Do some homework, find and closely examine pics, be prepared to do a little tweaking and you should be fine. Or sell the complete D&D system, put your stock header back on and buy a pair of slip-ons. Titanium and CF slip ons weigh next to nothing. The OEM header is supposed to be pretty good too. Of course a third option is to sell the D&D system and buy another full-system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 He doesn't have the original headers as he bought the bike with the D&D 4-1 already in place... Yoshi do an RS3 4-1 full system for the BB, so if it fits, theirs should do the job. Not sure about any others, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 He doesn't have the original headers as he bought the bike with the D&D 4-1 already in place... Yoshi do an RS3 4-1 full system for the BB, so if it fits, theirs should do the job. Not sure about any others, though. Reading is fundamental. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 :icon_doh: Strange, I read that & then it completely left my mind by the time I got to the bottom. I blame work, it turns my memory into a collander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 :icon_doh: Strange, I read that & then it completely left my mind by the time I got to the bottom. I blame work, it turns my memory into a collander. Mine is early onset senility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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