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killed two R/R in six months


kiwisteve

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98 bird. Only had 17k when I bought it in July last year. Fried the original R/R less than 6 months ago and I couldnt get the smoke back in so I bought a Tour MAx one. Now that ones fried too and I last night put one from JAWS in. In case I didn't have two dud R/Rs what would be causing them to overheat/fail?

Steve

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98 bird. Only had 17k when I bought it in July last year. Fried the original R/R less than 6 months ago and I couldnt get the smoke back in so I bought a Tour MAx one. Now that ones fried too and I last night put one from JAWS in. In case I didn't have two dud R/Rs what would be causing them to overheat/fail?

Steve

Check all of your ground connections at both ends for corrosion. A bad R/R frequently toasts the connector and last few inches of wire harness leading to it. Just plugging in afresh regulator will not do the trick. It might be a good idea for you to consider a fresh battery at the same time, too. I believe that a later style (2002 and up) regulators were constructed differently and have a better cooling fins and hold up much better than the first generation versions, too.

Here is an excellent link from the other forum:

http://www.cbrxx.com/honda-cbr-xx-resource...-about-die.html

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Same thing happened to me except i went through 3. One leg of the generator was shorted to ground. Everything appeared like it should have. all voltages were like it should have been so i never bothered with the resistance checks. That was in 2006 didnt lose another one til last year. FYI first two were OEM the rest were yamaha R1 units

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98 bird. Only had 17k when I bought it in July last year. Fried the original R/R less than 6 months ago and I couldnt get the smoke back in so I bought a Tour MAx one. Now that ones fried too and I last night put one from JAWS in. In case I didn't have two dud R/Rs what would be causing them to overheat/fail?

Steve

Check all of your ground connections at both ends for corrosion. A bad R/R frequently toasts the connector and last few inches of wire harness leading to it. Just plugging in afresh regulator will not do the trick. It might be a good idea for you to consider a fresh battery at the same time, too. I believe that a later style (2002 and up) regulators were constructed differently and have a better cooling fins and hold up much better than the first generation versions, too.

Here is an excellent link from the other forum:

http://www.cbrxx.com/honda-cbr-xx-resource...-about-die.html

That write-up isn't really very good, the author does not actually understand what is going on. Even thought he is probably right that a pc fan is of little use, he does not understand the concept of heat flow either. He is correct that the connectors turning brown is bad.........

Regarding the current problem with Steve's bike, a bad ground is not a problem that should harm the R/R. This is because the stator connections, the three big yellow wires, are floating. That means they have no ground association. The ground connection is only concerned with the output side, and a fault in the ground will lead to low voltage to the bike, but not excessive loading to the charging system. A bad ground essentially disconnects the charging system and prevents it from supplying the juice, it won't overload it. If the ground were to be completely disconnected for some minutes, then reconnect periodically you might have current surges from that, stressing the R/R a bit more. Does the voltage (lights) flicker when operating the bike?

If one of the three stator coils is defective, then the R/R will have to conduct extra current in the two remaining rectifier sections. This could be a problem as the remaining sections would carry the extra load. The proper check is to observe the AC voltage coming out of the stator plug between all three pairings of the three wires, they should be equal.

Semiconductor devices fail either due to high temperature or high voltage. They might not work at low temperature, but this is temporary. Since the R/R problem usually takes some time to occur, it is most likely heat related. The later version with the fins looks to be much better, although I suspect that the heat path is mostly still through the base. Like any other semiconductor device, there is a critical internal temperature where it will fail. In the early R/R, and I am betting still mostly true on the later, all the heat needs to leave thru the base.

Is your unit well connected mechanically to the frame? The heat originates near the middle of the base, this plate should be able to conduct heat into the frame directly, heat sink grease would be an excellent help.

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