About to do Race Tech fork valves on my 99 XX

[Rider99XX]

I've been in my forks twice in the past 10 years for seals and bushings. What my feeble mine could use some guidance with is the shim stack make up. The valves came with 2 packs of the thin shims (SH06 R20) and one pack of

FMPK S200615R shims. In what order do they go in?

I'm also replacing all bushings, seals, dust covers and springs and spacers. Also replacing the rear shock spring as the other one is a little tired and doing the 6mm shim.

I haven't really been through the instructions thoroughly but will tonight.

Also, any advice on the oil I should use? Will the Honda shock oil be ok? I hate to pay for the high price RT oil but will if need be.

Any advice, tips and tricks and things to watch out for would be appreciated.

Thanks!!!

[runner]

I am also interested in the replies you receive for possible duplication...how much did all of these parts cost you anyways...?

[jon haney]

The instructions should tell you how to arrange the shims based on your weight and the type of riding you want to do. I don't think the type of fork oil makes that much difference. Others on here might disagree. The weight of the oil is more important IMO. I started with 5 weight, but thought it was a little too light for track days. I ended up mixing a 5 weight with a 10 weight, and that seemed about perfect for my 200 lbs.

[Para045]

I don't think the type of fork oil makes that much difference. Others on here might disagree. The weight of the oil is more important IMO.

Yes and no, the problem is different brands weights are NOT the same

HERE

[MrBadExxample]

Here's a couple items I remember from my racetech installation:

1. Use 1000 then 2000 grit sandpaper to polish the damper rod.

2. Polish the valve faces with 2000 grit sandpaper. This helps ensure a nice, tight seal against the shims

3. Use a steel washer on the top of the spacer, this prevents the steel spacer from digging into the aluminum fork cap, which results in tiny aluminum shavings in the fork oil. Ever notice how used fork oil looks like it contains metal flakes?

4. If cutting the spacer, use a tube cutter. This makes nice square cuts.

5. You'll need a #54 drill bit to drill a hole in one of the valve orifices. I think that's the right size.

6. Fork oil weights differ substantially by manufacture. Not too long ago, I think BADZ_XX posted a link to good article about this.

[Silverbird2]

Here is a link that shows a few viscocity vs weight measurements. They are not always directly correlated.

http://www.pvdwiki.com/images/a/a7/PVD-ISO...cosity-Data.gif

[Rider99XX]

I am also interested in the replies you receive for possible duplication...how much did all of these parts cost you anyways...?

I got the RT Gold valves, RT fork springs and spacers, new seals, wipers, inner and outer bushings, 2 NEW Honda dampers, Eibach rear shock spring and adapter plates delivered for $450.00.

I replaced the dampers because one of the damper piston guides literally fell out and was laying in the bottom of the fork in little pieces. So I'm putting new dampers in both sides.

[dunedain]

Here's a couple items I remember from my racetech installation:

1. Use 1000 then 2000 grit sandpaper to polish the damper rod.

2. Polish the valve faces with 2000 grit sandpaper. This helps ensure a nice, tight seal against the shims

3. Use a steel washer on the top of the spacer, this prevents the steel spacer from digging into the aluminum fork cap, which results in tiny aluminum shavings in the fork oil. Ever notice how used fork oil looks like it contains metal flakes?

4. If cutting the spacer, use a tube cutter. This makes nice square cuts.

5. You'll need a #54 drill bit to drill a hole in one of the valve orifices. I think that's the right size.

6. Fork oil weights differ substantially by manufacture. Not too long ago, I think BADZ_XX posted a link to good article about this.

I agree w/MBE.

also you should make some big safety pin like thingys out of coat hangers to stack all your shims on and keep them from getting lose or our of order. If you end up using a lot of shims and you fancy yourself a perfectionist then consider shim dishing. The RT shims are punched and have an almost notable concave side and you may want to stack the washers to ensure you're getting them exactly right (perfectionist right). PM me for more info. Did you get compression and rebound valves? You should have but thats big dolla. read all the directions prior to doing this. Have you considered alternate shim stacks? The RT documentation has one setup fits all but there is more than one way to shim the forks. You can actually build in hig, mid and low speed damping with a custom shim stack. PM me for more info on this.

CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAn make it clean you'll need two cans of automitve contact cleaner and an air compressor. an old cookie sheet woorks good for laying stuff out and catching oil and stuff.

Good luck!

[Aurora]

OIL Chart

[HERBXX]

Newer bikes have the bypass hole in the damper rod, not the valve. (my 02 was like this) .

I ended up expoxing up the holes in the damper rod after i drilled the gold valves. I

If you already have bypass holes in the damper rod you may not want or need to drill yr gold valves.

The holes are in the face of hex part of the lower end of the damper rod.

Herb

[Rider99XX]

Since I don't have a center stand on my Bird, I used the "inexpensive front end stand" to change the spring and install the 6mm shim. I removed the tail fairing and used 2 ratchet straps at the rear of the sub frame. Worked like a charm. I put the front end on a fork stand while the back was suspended by the straps. Using the ratchet straps allows you to make small adjustments in height plus they allow you to lower the bike slowly.

I haven't had time to do the front yet, but will soon.

[Rider99XX]

Here's a couple items I remember from my racetech installation:

1. Use 1000 then 2000 grit sandpaper to polish the damper rod.

2. Polish the valve faces with 2000 grit sandpaper. This helps ensure a nice, tight seal against the shims

3. Use a steel washer on the top of the spacer, this prevents the steel spacer from digging into the aluminum fork cap, which results in tiny aluminum shavings in the fork oil. Ever notice how used fork oil looks like it contains metal flakes?

4. If cutting the spacer, use a tube cutter. This makes nice square cuts.

5. You'll need a #54 drill bit to drill a hole in one of the valve orifices. I think that's the right size.

6. Fork oil weights differ substantially by manufacture. Not too long ago, I think BADZ_XX posted a link to good article about this.

Did all the above. The spacer tube that came with the RT springs was aluminum, but I still used a steel washer under the cap. Got it all done today along with the 6mm shim on the rear shock. Went for a ride and it feels like a new bike, only better. Turn in with the 6mm spacer is a LOT better. I wish I would have done that years ago.