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Power Commander III USB question


Zero Knievel

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jblackbird2000's item looks interesting, but the only real reason I'd have for one is to improve the MPG the bike gets on trips.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=58810

I tried asking DynoJet what kind of % improvement on MPG they've seen, but their responses are cryptic at best.

Anyone have first-hand knowledge?

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With a PCIII you can lean it out until you burn a valve if you want.

How much you can lean it out is totally dependent on how it's mapped to begin with, which is individual to every model, which is in turn why Dynojet can't answer your question.

Ping EVLXX, he's done more to push the limits on lean mapping than anyone else here.

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With a PCIII you can lean it out until you burn a valve if you want.

How much you can lean it out is totally dependent on how it's mapped to begin with, which is individual to every model, which is in turn why Dynojet can't answer your question.

Ping EVLXX, he's done more to push the limits on lean mapping than anyone else here.

Pong!

Adjusted correctly you can see up to a 20% gain in fuel milage.

But as Tim pointed out.... yes each bike is a little different, and the elevation you are at also plays heavily into the Mapping.

If you decide to go the PC3 route.... I can help direct you in what you would need someone to adjust your bike too... but that's about all I can do.

Either that or.... you can buy a WideBand Commander (Dattalogger) and have fun makeing your own maps....

Only problem there is.... you'll never get your money back out of it.... unless gas prices go up to about $10 a gallon.

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Do most people experience a drop in mpg or an increase after they have a power commander mapped?

It all depends on how the bike is tuned. You can tune the bike for power, in that case you'll likely loose a bit of MPG. If you tune it for fuel economy you will get a increase in MPG.

I had my bike tuned so from 0-10% TPS and 0-5000RPM it is tuned for economy. If I go over 10% TPS or over 5000RPM the map will make the best power. That way I get the best of both worlds in one map(feel free to try the map). I get 40-45MPG at about 70-75MPH with full Givi's on.

BTW I got about a 20-30% increase in MPG at 70MPH. But my bike was running quite rich before the tune.

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I had my bike tuned so from 0-10% TPS and 0-5000RPM it is tuned for economy. If I go over 10% TPS or over 5000RPM the map will make the best power. That way I get the best of both worlds in one map(feel free to try the map). I get 40-45MPG at about 70-75MPH with full Givi's on.

BTW I got about a 20-30% increase in MPG at 70MPH. But my bike was running quite rich before the tune.

I'd not mind getting 40-45 MPG like you. I get about 35-40 (if I'm lucky) when I'm touring.

My riding habits are fairly consistent. Lots of 6th gear, shifting in the 3-4K range, trying to save gas. The amount of soot at the exhaust tells me that my bike runs a tad rich. Nothing modifying the bike air/exhaust wise.

Occasionally I like to rip it up (7-8K in curves w/1st gear), but that's more for engine braking so I don't need to touch the lever.

Still, how hard is it to get the settings done? Better to have a shop that does this do the job (I doubt there's a dyno shop near me)?

Will the settings work at all elevations or will I find engine problems if I take a trip that goes cross-country (something I don't worry about with stock)?

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I consistently get above 40 mpg... with spirited riding.

If I take it easy, and only have fun say 10-15% of the time, I can get 47-49 mpg.

I made my own map, with a data-logger, And it's Lean from 2000 rpm - 5500 rpm, and from 0% - 20% TP.

Everything outside of those parameters is set at 13.4:1 AFR for the best performance.

It's been my experience that all FI Birds are Tuned too Rich.... and any map that adds fuel to a normally aspirated Bird is just wasting fuel.

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I'd not mind getting 40-45 MPG like you. I get about 35-40 (if I'm lucky) when I'm touring.

My riding habits are fairly consistent. Lots of 6th gear, shifting in the 3-4K range, trying to save gas. The amount of soot at the exhaust tells me that my bike runs a tad rich. Nothing modifying the bike air/exhaust wise.

Occasionally I like to rip it up (7-8K in curves w/1st gear), but that's more for engine braking so I don't need to touch the lever.

Still, how hard is it to get the settings done? Better to have a shop that does this do the job (I doubt there's a dyno shop near me)?

Will the settings work at all elevations or will I find engine problems if I take a trip that goes cross-country (something I don't worry about with stock)?

Settings aren't bad to get done with the right equipment. The guy I had tune my bike was use to tuning the race bikes he knew the dyno well, I had to book a dyno tuning a month in advance to get in. Someone is good with the dynojet can tune it pretty quick.

You should have no problems with elevations as the computer compensates for it. You will make more power at lower elevations can't get around that.

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Ah.

So, I buy the kit and I'll likely have to take it to a shop that does dyno work so it's done right the first time.

I'll poke about and see if there are any good shops in SW VA or NE TN.

BTW, if anyone knows who does good dyno work near the Bristol, Kingsport, Johnson City area...post up.

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