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electrical demon rears ugly head. again.


TitaniumBird

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So, out on a ride tonight and blew through two headlight fuses before realizing it was happening when I was tearing ass. When I run the RPM's up fairly good, it's blowing the headlight fuse in a hot second. Not only did that majorly SUCK, It was also pitch dark, roaring out of a wooded intersection, the blinkers make nice light...

Anyway, WTF, I just replaced the R/R and stator...

Anyone wanna bet on the gremlin? I'm thinking R/R but why just the headlight?

Kevin

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Could you possibly have a chafed wire that is only shorting out under hard acceleration/high vibration?

I had a similar problem on one of the diesel engines on my dredge. It had a wire for the fuel injector on #1&2 cylinders that would only short to ground when I was really working the motor hard and it would vibrate more. It took the CAT mechanic and myself hours to find it but it was only a nick in the insulation on the wire we made a splice in the wire to remove the bad section and it was fine.

If your voltage is good start tracing the wire harness.

Good luck

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I'm thinking R/R but why just the headlight?

What else on your bike is an complete circuit without a control on it?

Think of all your electrics.

Headlight

Taillight/brakelight

Blinkers

Horn

Starter

Engine electronics

The only thing that has the switch turned ON all the time is your headlights, running lights, and the engine management electronics. The engine computer isn't that sophisticated, but it is microprocessor controlled, which means it has current limiting capabilities so that it runs correctly. The coils are beefy units and it doesn't matter greatly what kind of voltage gets thrown at them. But your lights are just a closed circuit....you can ram quite a bit of power through them. So when you have too much voltage, the easiest place for it to go is into the lighting circuits. Just be glad your fuses did their job and popped before the other weak points in the system....switches, terminals, or bulbs themselves.

Get that fixed, eh?

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9 times out of 10 if you made a change and something is happening that didn't before it is the changes fault.

I'd pull the pannels you had off the bike to change the RR and inspect the wires. Wouldn't hurt to test the RR while you are in there as it may have been faulty from the start.

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Trust me, I don't want to be down for any amount of time in this weather, I'm in love with this bike all over again this summer, it's been like a rebirth, even though I never really stopped... But still. LOL

Anyway, I stripped all the tuperware and put the R/R I had on the shelf in. It was testing 14.7 steady on the battery through all RPM range, then I let it get good and hot and did it again and it was steady around 15.2... My get tells me it's bad and building up till the damn breaks and letting go of serious voltage. The new on is on and it's 13.7 steady, we'll see how that goes, and I left the bags off till I'm sure it's not going to go on me again.

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Trust me, I don't want to be down for any amount of time in this weather, I'm in love with this bike all over again this summer, it's been like a rebirth, even though I never really stopped... But still. LOL

Anyway, I stripped all the tuperware and put the R/R I had on the shelf in. It was testing 14.7 steady on the battery through all RPM range, then I let it get good and hot and did it again and it was steady around 15.2... My get tells me it's bad and building up till the damn breaks and letting go of serious voltage. The new on is on and it's 13.7 steady, we'll see how that goes, and I left the bags off till I'm sure it's not going to go on me again.

The most I've ever seen is 14.2 on the Datel. I'd say the R/R went south.

It's really worth the money and little time spent to install one.

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So far no more fuses (knocks wood), must have been the damned R/R, I'm glad I didn't send back the electrosport...

NEXXT, lets GO!

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