brent Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Need to find someone to tune my Turbo black bird with carbs in the NY area or close by, Seems orient express has enough business for the year to return my calls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ Do You have a wideband o2 \sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brent Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ Do You have a wideband o2 \sensor? Dont have a wideband, I wouldnt know what to do with the info from it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ Do You have a wideband o2 \sensor? Dont have a wideband, I wouldnt know what to do with the info from it its fairly easy to understand how it works.... get a wideband kit, (sensor & AFR guage) 1. Install sensor in exhaust pipe, after the turbo 2. Mount gauge on dash, run necessary wiring to sensor 3. It will give you a reading with the bike running, all you do it shoot for 12.5-13.5 on the AFR gauge (throughout the rpm range w/ boost) 4. If you get a number that is lower than 11.5 it is rich 5. If you get a number that is higher than 14.0 it is lean 6. Adjust you jetting accordingly, until you get as close as you can That is what the shop is going to do, why not do it yourself & save some dough ? **other tid bits During engine warmup 12.5 -11.5 After warmup at idle 13.5 - 12.8 Part throttle or cruising speed 14.0 - 13.0 WFO 12.8 - 12.5 Generally speaking the engine will make the most HP at 12.0-12.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brent Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ Do You have a wideband o2 \sensor? Dont have a wideband, I wouldnt know what to do with the info from it its fairly easy to understand how it works.... get a wideband kit, (sensor & AFR guage) 1. Install sensor in exhaust pipe, after the turbo 2. Mount gauge on dash, run necessary wiring to sensor 3. It will give you a reading with the bike running, all you do it shoot for 12.5-13.5 on the AFR gauge (throughout the rpm range w/ boost) 4. If you get a number that is lower than 11.5 it is rich 5. If you get a number that is higher than 14.0 it is lean 6. Adjust you jetting accordingly, until you get as close as you can That is what the shop is going to do, why not do it yourself & save some dough ? **other tid bits During engine warmup 12.5 -11.5 After warmup at idle 13.5 - 12.8 Part throttle or cruising speed 14.0 - 13.0 WFO 12.8 - 12.5 Generally speaking the engine will make the most HP at 12.0-12.5 Might have to give this a try since all the dyno shops are giving me the run around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Hope you have plenty of time on your hands as it might take a while to get it "dialed in" As it is a PITA to do. Of course if you have a large shop/garage & shade, might make things easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Will be more difficult do toyou having to RIDE the bike to get the fuel "on boost" correct because it will not load up the turbo just reving the motor. My wideband has a logging feature that comes in handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Will be more difficult do toyou having to RIDE the bike to get the fuel "on boost" correct because it will not load up the turbo just reving the motor. My wideband has a logging feature that comes in handy. This one does 40 min's. Good reason to go hammer on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Yes one with a data logger is a must Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Hey, brent, bring it to me and I will!!! I got the lm1 too! Should not take me long, but I will loan you another to ride while I get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brent Posted June 24, 2008 Author Share Posted June 24, 2008 Hey, brent, bring it to me and I will!!! I got the lm1 too! Should not take me long, but I will loan you another to ride while I get it right. Texas is a little far for me but if you were closer i would Here is more of the story, I blew the turbo in November it still made boost but poor boost, brought it to a mechanic "Beaker" not his real name but he looks like him... He had the turbo rebuilt "$600" at D&W Diesel for a impeller and bearing??? when i drove it home it was pulling good at 9lbs, then i tryed 20lb and it ran like s*** didnt even pull... now it doesnt make boost at 9lb im thinking it could be the fuel pump is just on its last leg? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 What does the gauge say. You do have a gauge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brent Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 What does the gauge say. You do have a gauge? gets to 12lbs wont go over that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 What does the gauge say. You do have a gauge? gets to 12lbs wont go over that Well that works for carbed....Something tells me it ain't carbed,,is it? I am thinking Fuel pressure regulator again, Getting borring I know. Is it adjustable? or Mr turbo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brent Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 What does the gauge say. You do have a gauge? gets to 12lbs wont go over that Well that works for carbed....Something tells me it ain't carbed,,is it? I am thinking Fuel pressure regulator again, Getting borring I know. Is it adjustable? or Mr turbo? Its carbed, has two stage boost controler. Custom built kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Carbs shit. I am trying to catch up. Been reading you earlier post and saw the picture. But you did have it in the first post, and I missed it. The gauge your talking about is the turbo pressure guage? I was asking about fuel guage. Sorry. Nevermind. I am wondering if the turbo is not right, Sounds like it is draging. If that s the boost guage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brent Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 Carbs shit. I am trying to catch up. Been reading you earlier post and saw the picture. But you did have it in the first post, and I missed it. The gauge your talking about is the turbo pressure guage? I was asking about fuel guage. Sorry. Nevermind. I am wondering if the turbo is not right, Sounds like it is draging. If that s the boost guage. thats what im thinking, or the fuel pump isnt rising? sorry this post is all over the place i just finished tearing the whole bike apart only thing i found was the plenum was a little higher on one side and it was rubbing the fuel tank but didnt seem to be off the boot.. turbo did spin fine a few weeks ago now it slowly progressed into not even boosting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 I have rebuilt a few, thinking bearing load. Could be oiling, but don't think so. If the bearings were not seated or there was some reason they did not go deep enough into the bore. Can cause side load, rather thrust load. Not enough expansion room for the shaft between the two. Need to have some slack in the shaft between the two or when it gets hot the bearings don't have any room for the oil and will gaul. Something like .010" maybe less depending on the type. Some slip on the shaft too. If it is not fit correctly it can stick, causing load. These are .0001" fit tollarances. Easy if you are not skilled at mesurements to get bad. If they are going you should be able to feel it in that there should be no resistance to turning, at all. If there was some trash in the oil too. Could be a problem if the lines were not flushed and dried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brent Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 I have rebuilt a few, thinking bearing load. Could be oiling, but don't think so. If the bearings were not seated or there was some reason they did not go deep enough into the bore. Can cause side load, rather thrust load. Not enough expansion room for the shaft between the two. Need to have some slack in the shaft between the two or when it gets hot the bearings don't have any room for the oil and will gaul. Something like .010" maybe less depending on the type. Some slip on the shaft too. If it is not fit correctly it can stick, causing load. These are .0001" fit tollarances. Easy if you are not skilled at mesurements to get bad. If they are going you should be able to feel it in that there should be no resistance to turning, at all. If there was some trash in the oil too. Could be a problem if the lines were not flushed and dried. Come to think of it, I did notice that when i got it back it had the same scratched oil filter when i brought it up, oil is still clean though.. How would i test the bearings the impeller spins fine? the turbo was rebuilt by a garrett certified company according to the website.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Well, if you turn the impeller with your finger, how much effort. None. at all. Spin it does it stop at the same place. Mark it witha marker. Other wise you would need it hot. I am thinking air leak now too. After what you said about the plenumn. Need to check by pressuring the system. Only way I can think about doing that is to pull the cams. Plug the inlet, some how. and pump some air in and see if it holds. I might be getting tired, will sleep on it. Something always comes in my dreams. Might need to think about what your saying. I have seen a lot of problems like this be a leak in the system. and some times only under operation. Banshes are a bitch because of that. I will check again before i go to bed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX4me Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 I don't know where to start. I'm really not trying to bust your balls here but if you don't understand what the AF information means you may be headed for piston meltdown. It's REALLY important. We need to know alot more about the bike. What's the compression ratio? Is the motor stock? From the pictures it looks similar to HANKSXX kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 I don't know where to start. I'm really not trying to bust your balls here but if you don't understand what the AF information means you may be headed for piston meltdown. It's REALLY important. We need to know alot more about the bike. What's the compression ratio? Is the motor stock? From the pictures it looks similar to HANKSXX kit. Finally, someone with experience. Tag Forest. Your it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX4me Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 There are others here, or at least they used to be here, that have more knowledge than I. I do know that Hank hangs out at "the other" sight. He has a turbo carbed bird. He may be the best source of carb specific info. I can help with the "try to keep things from melting" part though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 There are others here, or at least they used to be here, that have more knowledge than I. I do know that Hank hangs out at "the other" sight. He has a turbo carbed bird. He may be the best source of carb specific info. I can help with the "try to keep things from melting" part though. I am thinking that something has changed either by damage, or mistake, or failure. Need testing data, to know where to look. Afr is required, hell I thought I needed it for running open headers. I like having it for just running down the road now. But, even a automotive cheap one would give you a something. but, with what you have invested. The x16 stand alone for 300 Is a start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Now none of us here who have posted up for Brent are "experts" on the subject, but we do seem to have a good amount of collective knowledge. Look at this situation peice by peice. For a turbo's engine to build boost,,,, what's needed. First. Proper sealing of the intake plenum, air filter is not restricting flow(crushed, oil soaked). Second. The turbo is functioning properly, has good internal sealing, the wastegate is operational and no major exhaust leaks pre-turbo. Third. Engine has even(and enough) compression, adaquate fuel and STRONG spark. With all these factors checked out and good, he should have boost. The problem I see is that he can't tell what his fuel pressure is just as a starting point. Were there any signs of pre-ignition? Was the bike surging under load? Brent has a problem with the bike building less and less boost. Turbo failure could be a strong possibility but I think he need to rule out some other possibilities as well and either borrow or buy the guages to see what's going on. Also one last thing. To try and preserve the engine if he's got any kind of leaning condition,,,,,,, put some race gas into the bike. This will at least offer him a little more of a safety margin if he's running lean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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