ZedsDead Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 1997 bird w/ 22k miles. Is it the stator or the RR Based on the following tests/information I'm thinking it's the RR but would like to see what others think Note: Multimeter used for following tests and results. Symptoms: Voltage at battery with engine at idle ~12.4 DC Volatage at battery with engine at 5k RPM ~12.6 DC Ride for ~15 miles with high beams on and the battery will be dead. Ride (commute) to work and back (20 miles RT) with just low beams on and the battery will maintain for a month. Tests & Results done: Remove stator to RR connection and tested for continuity between all three yellow wires: No Continuity Tested AC voltage with engine running between three yellow wires: 64 - 65 volts AC at 5k RPM Resistance between yellow wires: .5 Ohms (spec says .22 - .27) Continuity between yellow wires and ground (green) wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Sounds to me like the R/R.. the stator resistance sounds low but if you do a search others have had similar read outs with no stator issues.. AC volts sound about right 40-80 What year model XX, if it is a 97-98 the original R/R is prone to failure, should replace it an R1 unit Here Check this thread troubleshooting guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 What year model XX, if it is a 97-98 the original R/R is prone to failure, should replace it an R1 unit I just did that last week (even though I had no troubles) and it was a breeze and seems to work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblackbird2000 Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Another vote for the R/R. It sounds like your Stator is doing it's job effectively. When I had similar issues, someone informed me that it's possible to take your R/R to a dealer and have it tested, just for piece of mind. Call around first though, not all dealers have this capability. Good luck with it. Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Another vote for R/R. When my stator was going out my resistance readings were fine but my AC voltage was around 46-47 Vac @ 5,000 RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 1997 bird w/ 22k miles. Is it the stator or the RR Based on the following tests/information I'm thinking it's the RR but would like to see what others think Note: Multimeter used for following tests and results. Symptoms: Voltage at battery with engine at idle ~12.4 DC Volatage at battery with engine at 5k RPM ~12.6 DC Ride for ~15 miles with high beams on and the battery will be dead. Ride (commute) to work and back (20 miles RT) with just low beams on and the battery will maintain for a month. Tests & Results done: Remove stator to RR connection and tested for continuity between all three yellow wires: Good connection Tested AC voltage with engine running between three yellow wires: 64 - 65 volts AC at 5k RPM Resistance between yellow wires: .5 Ohms (spec says .22 - .27) No connection between yellow wires and ground (green) wire. There seems to be something wrong here, either with the wording or for real. In case the bold text I added is correct, the problem is a failed R/R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZedsDead Posted June 4, 2008 Author Share Posted June 4, 2008 Thank you for all the replies. Ordering a RR today most likely from Ricks as it seems a good place based on topics in this forum. I've considered the R1 RR however for ease of installation (no connector mis-match issues, etc) I think I'll go with the 'better than OEM' OEM style replacement. I'll post up the results once the job is completed and tested (~week). Again, thank you for the replies. Update/Edit: Ricks has them back ordered until mid to end July. Fortunately, DennisKirk is a retail distributor for Ricks and they were in stock. Part ordered and shipped, ETA this Friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZedsDead Posted June 10, 2008 Author Share Posted June 10, 2008 All fix and working like it should. Note: The Ricks RR is thicker than the OEM (all metal with cooling fins) which will require you to go out (local hardware store) and buy longer bolts. I used 8mmx30mm with a lock washer and appears to thread in about the same length as the OEM bolts w/ OEM RR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 All fix and working like it should. Note: The Ricks RR is thicker than the OEM (all metal with cooling fins) which will require you to go out (local hardware store) and buy longer bolts. I used 8mmx30mm with a lock washer and appears to thread in about the same length as the OEM bolts w/ OEM RR. The older bikes R/R is without cooling fins. They upgraded to cooling fins on later bikes. R/R has always been a Honda problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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