FI Throttle cable

[Clinton Horn]

Could some one please let me in on the procedure to re- attach the throttle cables to the throttle bodies? The one that OPENS the butterflies has me furious. I have twisted, poked , threaded the cable in from the rear. NOTHING will make that little drum go into the slot. No concern about access to the spot as tank, plastic etc are all off. I have taken them loose from the twist grip for more slack but still no go. Do I have to take the damn fuel rail and bodies completely off to get this thing in? What a PITA. There MUST be some trick otherwise it would be hundreds of $ in labor for a simple maintenance item. I thought timing the cams was bad but this is ridiculous.

[Redbird]

As I recall, it took a pair of needle nose pliers, a thin, long screwdriver to manipulate the cable from the front side a bit- and a lot of patience. I can't give you specific advice other than "it is possible, do not despair".

[RC Randy]

As I recall, it took a pair of needle nose pliers, a thin, long screwdriver to manipulate the cable

Same for me. I just did a valve check, and had to remove and reattach the throttle cables, and it was a little tricky.

[MrBadExxample]

Would it help to hold the butterflies in a fully open position? I don't have a FI bike, but it helps for attaching the cables on carbed bikes.

[Clinton Horn]

The pulley that accepts both cables has a notch at about the 2 o'clock position if you look at the linkage from the left side of the bike. Rotating the butterflies open (clockwise) causes the connection to rotate deeper into the area behind the throttle bodies. It is one tough situation. Basically I am resigned to putting needle nose pliers on the cable and pulling enough slack up from beneath the pulley to put a 180 in the cable to engage it. The thing that is so frustrating is that no one else has been defeated (including the little guy that assembled it at the factory with some simple tool that I can't figure out.). It is almost like I have to kink it to get it in place. As it came out in good shape, I must assume there is a better way. I am thinking about making a drum with a notch across it and a lever to help me loop the cable without damaging it. When I grasp it with needle nose, it twists and springs every which way but what I need. I spent several hours with dental picks trying to do it without brute force but I am about to give up and get a bigger hammer.

[jon haney]

The pulley that accepts both cables has a notch at about the 2 o'clock position if you look at the linkage from the left side of the bike. Rotating the butterflies open (clockwise) causes the connection to rotate deeper into the area behind the throttle bodies. It is one tough situation. Basically I am resigned to putting needle nose pliers on the cable and pulling enough slack up from beneath the pulley to put a 180 in the cable to engage it. The thing that is so frustrating is that no one else has been defeated (including the little guy that assembled it at the factory with some simple tool that I can't figure out.). It is almost like I have to kink it to get it in place. As it came out in good shape, I must assume there is a better way. I am thinking about making a drum with a notch across it and a lever to help me loop the cable without damaging it. When I grasp it with needle nose, it twists and springs every which way but what I need. I spent several hours with dental picks trying to do it without brute force but I am about to give up and get a bigger hammer.

Mr. Badexample has the right idea. I used a piece of wood to hold open the throttle plates. Even though it rotates the hole farther down, it's still easier because it almost eliminates having to "loop" the cable. I just positioned the cable with one hand and pushed the end of the cable into the hole with a flat-blade screw driver.

Don't worry, you'll figure it out.

[Clinton Horn]

The pulley that accepts both cables has a notch at about the 2 o'clock position if you look at the linkage from the left side of the bike. Rotating the butterflies open (clockwise) causes the connection to rotate deeper into the area behind the throttle bodies. It is one tough situation. Basically I am resigned to putting needle nose pliers on the cable and pulling enough slack up from beneath the pulley to put a 180 in the cable to engage it. The thing that is so frustrating is that no one else has been defeated (including the little guy that assembled it at the factory with some simple tool that I can't figure out.). It is almost like I have to kink it to get it in place. As it came out in good shape, I must assume there is a better way. I am thinking about making a drum with a notch across it and a lever to help me loop the cable without damaging it. When I grasp it with needle nose, it twists and springs every which way but what I need. I spent several hours with dental picks trying to do it without brute force but I am about to give up and get a bigger hammer.

Mr. Badexample has the right idea. I used a piece of wood to hold open the throttle plates. Even though it rotates the hole farther down, it's still easier because it almost eliminates having to "loop" the cable. I just positioned the cable with one hand and pushed the end of the cable into the hole with a flat-blade screw driver.

Don't worry, you'll figure it out.

[Clinton Horn]

I have to come clean. Part of the rerason I had such difficulty was using the WRONG cable. Once I got both on backward and began trying to make the twist grip connection, it was apparent. I had so much practice with the wrong cable that finally getting the right one back in was really fairly easy. It is pretty humbling to acknowledge such a stupid mistake. Nevertheless, I don't want others to be intimidated by my bad experience. It really is not that bad with either method. Difficult but not impossible. The good news is that once it is seated, It would not come out by accident regardless of how much I twisted and looped the cable. There is a definite sequence to assembling these cables. One has to pivot on the hand grip. Hooking that up to the motor first makes threading the cable into the twist grip a real challenge. I did that wrong as well but I sure as hell wasn't goint to disconnect it (the hard one). It is the kind of thing that takes a long time to get right the first time. I'll probably forget everything before I need the knowledge again. I thought plugs in a V-6 front wheel drive car was a challenge. The Blackbird will make your cry for clearance

[jon haney]

I have to come clean. Part of the rerason I had such difficulty was using the WRONG cable. Once I got both on backward and began trying to make the twist grip connection, it was apparent. I had so much practice with the wrong cable that finally getting the right one back in was really fairly easy. It is pretty humbling to acknowledge such a stupid mistake. Nevertheless, I don't want others to be intimidated by my bad experience. It really is not that bad with either method. Difficult but not impossible. The good news is that once it is seated, It would not come out by accident regardless of how much I twisted and looped the cable. There is a definite sequence to assembling these cables. One has to pivot on the hand grip. Hooking that up to the motor first makes threading the cable into the twist grip a real challenge. I did that wrong as well but I sure as hell wasn't goint to disconnect it (the hard one). It is the kind of thing that takes a long time to get right the first time. I'll probably forget everything before I need the knowledge again. I thought plugs in a V-6 front wheel drive car was a challenge. The Blackbird will make your cry for clearance

I was wondering if you had the cables switched, but I didn't want to insult your intelligence if I was wrong. You're right about the throttle grip being a bigger PITA. The only way I'm messing with that end again is if it breaks.

Glad you got it figured out.