ActionStarCBRxx Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 I am getting ready to do a fork rebuild on my 97 blackbird. I am attaching the PDF of the front forks. What parts will I need to replace once I put the new springs in? The bike has 30k miles on it. Looking for two categories of parts... 1) Have to replace... like the seal set listed as item #18. 2) May want to consider replacing since the forks are apart... anything like part # 25 needle bushings Thanks for the help! BlackBirdForks.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 I am getting ready to do a fork rebuild on my 97 blackbird. I am attaching the PDF of the front forks. What parts will I need to replace once I put the new springs in? The bike has 30k miles on it. Looking for two categories of parts... 1) Have to replace... like the seal set listed as item #18. 2) May want to consider replacing since the forks are apart... anything like part # 25 needle bushings Thanks for the help! You really do not need to replace anything but the fluid, if you are just changing springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 I would replace #18 as you say and also #10 if the bushing is worn. #25 is an external bearing that makes the left caliper turnable for the Dual Brake System function. This can be replaced anytime without removing the fork legs. On my bird -97 I only changed the sealings and the fork is just fine. The springs were already replaced by a prevoius owner. You may consider changing springs if it still has the soft stock ones. Then there is also a possibility to revalve the fork if you want to further improve the chassi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFT Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 How often should you change the fork fluid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 How often should you change the fork fluid? Change once a year if you ride a lot or just want to keep the suspension in good condition. Two-year intervals will also work, but then you will use a fork that has contaminations affecting the function of fork valves. There will always be someone saying I havn't needed to change in e.g 5 years. Those guys should try a bike with a new maintained fork...It is like changing the brake disks and pads on a car, you dont relalize how bad it has been until you put in new parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 How often should you change the fork fluid? Change once a year if you ride a lot or just want to keep the suspension in good condition. Two-year intervals will also work, but then you will use a fork that has contaminations affecting the function of fork valves. There will always be someone saying I havn't needed to change in e.g 5 years. Those guys should try a bike with a new maintained fork...It is like changing the brake disks and pads on a car, you dont relalize how bad it has been until you put in new parts. I'll plus one all dat! I'm an every two years guy. When that 5 year guy does look at his fork oil as he dumps it out he'll see this really pretty metalic color to it. Anyone who knows oil knows metalic in it is not good. Considering your bushings are teflon coated I consider it like sandpaper on the bushing teflon coating. One of the only 3 forces to act on our suspension is friction and the goal here would be to make friction as close to zero as possible for optimal performance. Thats also why you should disassemble the rear linkage and clean and lube it the same time you do your forks. Make that suspension fwork for yas!!! Good sttuff man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 Good point regarding the rear suspension Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 In the spring I rebuilt a set of XX forks and I'm rebuilding a set this afternoon. In no particular order here's a couple things to consider: Fork seal set: You couldn't claim to be rebuilding the forks without putting in a new fork seal set (seal, dust cover, snap ring). I'll only use Honda OEM fork seal sets. The after market sets claim to have lower stiction, but seem to leak sooner. Crush washer: To remove the cartridge, you'll have to remove the allen bolt in the bottom of the forks. There's a copper crush washer under it. The washers I've seen were deformed. Rather than risk a leak, I replaced them. A dental pick is really handy for pulling them out. Cartridge rod: Racetech recommends sanding it with 400 grit sandpaper. I concur, it's got a rough finish. Fork oil: It's your preference. I use 10wt, others prefer 7.5wt or 5wt. Spacers: If you change the springs you'll likely have to trim the OEM spacers or cut new ones from metal tubing. New spacers might come with the springs. I trim them to the appropriate SAG using a tube cutter. I also put a steel washer between the spacer and the fork cap. Otherwise the spacer cuts into the soft aluminum of the fork cap, which deposits metal into the fork. Inner & Outer Bushings: I suppose if the Teflon coating looks good you could reuse them. If you feel they're cheap enough, then replace them. If the Teflon coating shows signs of wear, definitely replace them. I use only Honda OEM bushings. Valves and Shim Stack: If you're feeling wealthy, I recommend the RaceTech Gold compression and rebound valves. Both shim stacks will be changed as well. Fork Lowers: They look shit-hot if you powder coat them. You'll have to clean them thoroughly if you get them powder coated. The sandblasting step will leave grit inside the fork lower. It took me 45 minutes of cleaning to get all the grit out. Sliders: I use fresh Kerosene to clean the sliders and fork lowers. I also have a 14" long pair of needle nose pliers, which are very handy for tamping and twisting a clean rag through the fork lowers and sliders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rideonXX Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 Thanks for posting the helpful information guys. Time for me to change fluid again---but should probably take them apart and freshen them up next time---as I now have 47K+ on it. Right now though, they are working great. Hyperpro springs and lighter fluid made so much difference---I can't imagine what a full rebuild would make it feel like. Regardless--thanks for the information--------happy trails kel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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