sr71cbr1100xx Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 I have a set of heavier springs for the front forks from Jaws and the rear shock 5mm spacer coming as my buddy ordered 2 sets and said that they are suppose to make the Bird handle almost as well as a pure sport bike. Is this true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 Those mods should certainly help your bike's handling. Be sure to set your sag to the proper level. Most sources recommend a sag of about 35mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 I have a set of heavier springs for the front forks from Jaws and the rear shock 5mm spacer coming as my buddy ordered 2 sets and said that they are suppose to make the Bird handle almost as well as a pure sport bike. Is this true? Good stuff there I wouldn't say pure sport bike but a giant step up in improvement over stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr71cbr1100xx Posted August 20, 2007 Author Share Posted August 20, 2007 Thanks for the feedback - I am excited about getting it installed - Can any bike shop install these parts or do I need to go to a shop that does aftermarket parts. Also, What is sag? Thanks Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 Thanks for the feedback - I am excited about getting it installed - Can any bike shop install these parts or do I need to go to a shop that does aftermarket parts. Also, What is sag? Thanks Scott Do it yourself, absolutely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 What is sag? http://www.roadracinghelp.com/TechArticle/...d_sag_setup.htm Stolen from another post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr71cbr1100xx Posted September 27, 2007 Author Share Posted September 27, 2007 I am finally getting the Jaws springs installed this Friday. Can anyone tell me if I should just use the stock weight oil which is 10wt -right or a lighter weight oil like a 5 wt. I am confused because some say that with heavier spring you need a lighter oil and others say the opposite. The guy that I am taking the bike to says I should go with the stock weight oil I weigh 190lbs Thanks Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZDave Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I am finally getting the Jaws springs installed this Friday. Can anyone tell me if I should just use the stock weight oil which is 10wt -right or a lighter weight oil like a 5 wt. I am confused because some say that with heavier spring you need a lighter oil and others say the opposite. The guy that I am taking the bike to says I should go with the stock weight oil I weigh 190lbs Thanks Scott What year bike is it? Honda changed the valving rate (after 99 I think). The earlier ones go better with 5 weight. I'd still go with 5 weight on the later ones but friends disagree. They recommend 7.5 or 10? (Idiots ) I went with the full replacement compression and rebound valves from racetech. I'd have to say that the new springs solved 80% of the problems by themselves. The valves did help but not as much as expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Unless you are going to spend a great deal on time on the Track, the stock weight (10) is just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I use 10wt. with my Jaws springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackStreet Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 With stiffer springs, the oil should be thicker (higher weight). They may need to add spacers with the springs. The spacer plus the new spring should be the height of the old spring. Then you put the whole thing together and measure the sag with you and your gear. Too much sag (over 35mm) and you need to add length to the spacer. The rear spring is adjustable and should be measured and set also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr71cbr1100xx Posted September 29, 2007 Author Share Posted September 29, 2007 Thanks a lot everyone for great feedback. Just got the bike back today with 10wt oil and it feels alot more percise - no more boating front. The Spacer for the springs from Jaws is pre-cut to fit with the new springs and the Mechanic said that that was nice because most springs just come with a length of tube for your own cutting. The rear spacer puts a nice rake to the bike - but it sure is harder on the wrists. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 .........The rear spacer puts a nice rake to the bike - but it sure is harder on the wrists. Scott It is quite important to relax the arms and wrists to be able to drive smoothly and controlled. Try to support the body weight by the foots-legs-knees and lower back and belly muscles instead of arms and wrists. If one comes into a touchy situation and grab the bars instead of just doing the necessary counter-steer commands things can go terribly wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr71cbr1100xx Posted October 1, 2007 Author Share Posted October 1, 2007 .........The rear spacer puts a nice rake to the bike - but it sure is harder on the wrists. Scott It is quite important to relax the arms and wrists to be able to drive smoothly and controlled. Try to support the body weight by the foots-legs-knees and lower back and belly muscles instead of arms and wrists. If one comes into a touchy situation and grab the bars instead of just doing the necessary counter-steer commands things can go terribly wrong. Thanks for the above riding comments - that makes a lot of sense and I am making an effort to keep the body weight off the wrists- good to know as this is my first bike ever and its been a hard road the last 4 years just getting use to this brutal animal so any comments are appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 I try to pull my elbows in towards the tank when riding. This limits how much you can support with your arms and puts less angle on your wrist. Fours years,,,, it is now time for some training. I did Codes (California Superbike School), but there are other great schools out there. You get time on a track, and get taught throttle control, cornering lines, and proper braking. Trust me, it will be some of best money you ever spent. The only problems doing this will be your desire to go back, and your broken face. It can be tough to grin so much. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedlt Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 In WA The Mike Sullivan school is okay you just need a good instructor. if you have a choice ask for Jim late apex he will take the time to make sure you are riding correct. Bad thing about the bird on the track is the link brake system best thing to do is disconnect it if you want to use its full potential or just have fun and slide the rear into the corners when you load the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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