feelergaugephil Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Has anyone replaced their own camchain? my shims are starting to tap a little now (32K) and was wondering if it's easy or not to do? I know the shims are under bucket and the cams have to come out. Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Has anyone replaced their own camchain? my shims are starting to tap a little now (32K) and was wondering if it's easy or not to do? I know the shims are under bucket and the cams have to come out. Phil. I'm confused... You're either talking about the camchain TENSIONER, or the VALVE LASH... Nothing you're talking about would have anything to do with replacing the cam chain... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 The cam chain does not have to be replaced to adjust the valves. But if you need to replace shims the cam shafts will need to be removed. Obviously you would check the clearance before pulling the cams. Many folks with mileage way more than 32K have stated their valves did not need adjusting. Use a good feeler gauge, Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xx0011rbc Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 On a similar subject - my 99 BB started making some valve noise at 22K. Tear down revealed I do have some clearances out of spec and I am just about to pull the cams. Question is does anyone know how critical it is to have the CCT fully applied using some form of "stopper tool"? Seems to me once the cams are removed the chain will be sloppy loose anyways and if it is for timing purposes during reassembly I can't imagine the chain stretching enough to where a person might be able to line all the marks up and be an entire tooth off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 It'll make removing the cams easier having the tension off the chain. I've got your "stopper tool"..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 On a similar subject - my 99 BB started making some valve noise at 22K. Tear down revealed I do have some clearances out of spec and I am just about to pull the cams. Question is does anyone know how critical it is to have the CCT fully applied using some form of "stopper tool"? Seems to me once the cams are removed the chain will be sloppy loose anyways and if it is for timing purposes during reassembly I can't imagine the chain stretching enough to where a person might be able to line all the marks up and be an entire tooth off? My experience was that the chain was so tight that it was easy to assemble with the cam gears one tooth too close. For me the CCT needed to be fully retracted. I used the method Tim illustrated above, expect I locked the CCT by c-clamping the the screwdriver to the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xx0011rbc Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 On a similar subject - my 99 BB started making some valve noise at 22K. Tear down revealed I do have some clearances out of spec and I am just about to pull the cams. Question is does anyone know how critical it is to have the CCT fully applied using some form of "stopper tool"? Seems to me once the cams are removed the chain will be sloppy loose anyways and if it is for timing purposes during reassembly I can't imagine the chain stretching enough to where a person might be able to line all the marks up and be an entire tooth off? My experience was that the chain was so tight that it was easy to assemble with the cam gears one tooth too close. For me the CCT needed to be fully retracted. I used the method Tim illustrated above, expect I locked the CCT by c-clamping the the screwdriver to the frame. Really appreciate the info and prompt response. I was doing something similar with vise grips and a jewelers screwdriver but it kept backing out. Think I can scrape up tools per the photo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Just remove the tensioner -- 2 bolts and you're done. Then reinstall it using your jeweler's screwdriver manually. I tried that, several times actually. My experience was that I would get the timing marks on the cams and crank all lined up. But when I re-installed and released the CCT one of the marks would move out of position. In the end the method what worked for me was retracting/locking the CCT. But that's not to say that installing the chain with the CCT removed won't work. I just didn't have much luck that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feelergaugephil Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 Thanks for the replies. I have changed the CCT 4 times now, they last on average 6-8K then the rattling begins again, the shims have never been changed/or replaced, I am old school, working on Suzuki GS's most of my life where it's easy to do shims (above bucket) but with the XX being under bucket it's something new to me, with it tore down I was just thinking of doing the camchain while I am in there as it's only $40 from Honda (I get good discounts) And I will use a SNAP ON feelergauge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinton Horn Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I have not been around for a while but I am in the process of some deferred maintenance on my 99 Blackbird. Mileage is 30600. I have the valve cover off and a Honda service manual. I have checked the clearances on all valves and I am going to have to pull the cams as several are at the limit and one is slightly past. My question: The manual breezes over the cam chain removal. It describes removing the cam sprockets if they or the cam(s) are to be replaced. I intend to do neither at the moment. Also, it appears to me that the motor would be easy to get 360 degrees out of time if not installed with the TDC AND the cam marks coordinated carefully. IE it is possible to get them both on the mark and still be 360 degrees out? I intend to mark EVERYTHING in an effort to get it back together properly. The marks on the cam sprockets are difficul(impossible) to see due to the frame. I do not see the pulse generator but it has to come out as well? Any help would be appreciated. For those interested #1 Exhaust both .23 mm Intake .16 outboard .13 inboard #2 Exhaust both .23 Intake both .15 #3 Exhaust both .23 Intake .13 left and .15 right #4 Exhaust left .23 right .18 Intake both .13 I wrestled with the valve cover for a while and suddenly, it just slid past the wiring and brake lines like butter. No idea how I turned it but it looks like getting it back in place without stripping the gasket will not be a picnic. No idea why the one exhaust is so much worse than the others. Bike is rarely ridden hard and 15-40 Delvac or Rotella is changed regularly at 3000 mi intervals. I am off to Sears for a new feeler gauge (just to make sure) and a torque wrench. I think my target will be .17 for intake and .23 for exhaust. Are all motors built with the same shim paks combination? Is it possible that I can strip .04mm out of the shim paks or do I have to remove them and start over with additional shims and a mic? Sorry I have so many questions. This is not proving to be "light maintenance". Still, it is a better alternative to new valves and possibly a head. Thanks- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Since most of the time valves go tight I`ve sanded (wet) shims in shim under backet arrangements in the past without durability issues.Start with 600-800 paper and finnish with 1200-1500 when you get close to desired thickness.Of course you`ll need micrometer.In my book it beats going to the dealer for new shims,etc,makes possible to start and finish the job in one shot. Looking at your clearances,do only that 0.18 exhaust and 0.13 intakes,I would not bother with those 0.15-0.16 intakes.You`ll have only 5 shims to do,it is not too bad. Don`t remember,but you may have to remove intake sprocket in order to slip the chain out of the sprockets. Here is some usefull info how to put everything back together. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=44131 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinton Horn Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Thanks tomek, that is very helpful. I bought some red fingernail polish and I am going to mark the cam sprockets 40 ways from Sunday. Looks like I am not the only one who can see the alignment marks due to the frame. I see the zip tie to keep the chain taught and I will use that as well. Sanding shims by hand scrubbing on flat sandpaper? Novel idea. I will probably give it a try if I can't combine existing shims for proper clearance. I doubt you can case harden anything so thin. Since necessity is the mother of invention, I bet I will give it a try. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 The shims can be case hardened, because they're between 1.8 and 2.1mm thick... Also, about getting it 360 degrees out of time... it really doesn't matter... Wasted spark system. It hits them 2 at a time, so it hits the one that's on the compression stroke, as well as the one that's nearing the end of the exhaust stroke... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinton Horn Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I must be retarded. I spent ALL DAY getting the shims and cams back in. I had to install the exhaust cam three times before I finally got all three marks to line up. The damn chain has NO slack in it and I had to PRY the cam sprocket under the chain and than tie it down with the cover and bolts. I realize the chain must be snug but damn. The tensioner was fully retracted. I am sure there is a better way. I considered taking the chain off the drive sprocket but that looked to be an even bigger mess. The only consolation so far is that all are within .01 MM from spec. Thanks for the tip about the shims, I polsihed them down and used a mic to verify each one. If they are soft, I don't care. The next owner can change them if he wants to. I ran through several revolutions with a socket wrench and nothing is binding. I hit the starter and it spins freely. Rechecked the timimg marks and all is good. Now all I have to do is wedge that valve cover back in place. Probably spend another couple hours hooking up the throttle cables, hoses etc. THEN I have all of the plastic to get back on. I think I will go ahead and replace the headers that got mashed by a curb, replace the fork seals and probably the fresh OEM shock I have been hoarding for five years. All in all, if anyone can do this start to finish in one day, my hat is off to you. I have about 9 hours in it so far. If I do ever try try this again, I will definitely pull the motor and do the head too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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