Dealing with temp issues

[redwingedblackbird]

I'm looking for suggestions to help keep my bird cooler out here in Arizona.

-besides, not riding when its hot outside... the obvious : )

Is there a tasty flavor or recipe of antifreeze that tends to keep things cooler ?

Anyone ever added a larger or second fan or a manual fan switch to the factory fan ?

She runs cool enough on the highway, although stop and go city traffic heats her up quick.

I'd like to keep the gauge under 205 if possible.

What are you guys seeing during your warm months?

Any ideas welcome, thanks.

[scottw]

Personally, I think to much emphasis is placed on low speed hot running. A 50:50 mixture of coolant and water with a 16 lb. cap (1.1 Atm) will not boil until 260 F. You will not damage anything at this temperature.

However the only way you can reduce slow speed heating is to increase the cooling capacity of the radiator or increase airflow. Water Wetter makes it possible to remove more heat from the engine block, but unless you have a means to remove that additional heat from the radiator, you won't see any improvement.

All engines are ultimately Air Cooled. Unless you increase air flow or increase surface area of the heat exchanger, you won't achive any lower temperatures.

I used to worry about it, but eventually got over it and it doesn't concern me any more, unless the system shows boil-over, then usually there is a problem in the cooling system.

[Furbird]

I've added a second fan to mine in the past, and the increased strain on the charging system is not worth the little effect it makes in cooling differences. I eventually just took it off the bike because it was draining the battery down. If somebody made a bigger radiator that went farther down towards the V at the bottom, that would help, but you would still have to find a way to make room for a second fan or it would do you no good in traffic. Even then, you're still faced with the charging issue, and nobody makes a stator that puts out more power.

[shovelstrokeed]

I'm pretty sure the problem with coolant temperature rise on the BB is not related to either radiator size or airflow through it. Worst I have ever seen is 235 degrees and that was in 12 miles of stop and go traffic on a 98 degree day. It damn near killed me, never mind the bike.

I think the real problem lies in the water pump. It is pretty hard to design a pump that will provide adequate flow at 1100 RPM and not cavitate at 11,000 RPM. I'm pretty sure the engineers at Honda built the pump to work right at high RPM and the result is not enough coolant flow through the radiator at low speeds.

I submit as partial evidence the fact that my bike will heat enough for the fan to come on just trolling along at 20 mph in a school zone but won't get above 184 degrees in mile after mile running at 5000 RPM (90 indicated), even on a 100 degree day.

[Furbird]

Yes and no on the water pump. Most everybody on here is in agreement that when you are in stop and go traffic, keep the RPM's around 2,000 or so. This makes the water flow faster, and helps keep the bike cooler, but only when the fan is on. The thing is, the bike isn't designed to sit in traffic. So the longer it sits, the more the fan runs, the more you have to keep it at 2g's, the more heat it creates, etc. etc.

When you are driving down the interstate, the front end design forces the air that the bike needs to keep the engine cool into the radiator, but not so much to cause it to slow it down due to aero drag. When you are sitting in traffic, the only airflow is what the fan gives it, and the fan design works but is not the greatest. Honda made it so it keeps the bike cool enough to not overheat for most climates. Those of us in extreme heat areas kinda push those limits.

If I had deep pockets, I would have a new aluminum radiator built that went further down into the V, and use a 2 fan setup with as low of an amperage draw as I could find. This would create more airflow over more of the radiator surface while pulling the same or perhaps slightly more amperage than the factory fan. Of course,you are talking about more draw on an already borderline system, but with more CFM over more area of the radiator, it would cool the bike faster and the fans would actually run less. It would spike more power, but overall use less power, and more efficiently.

What I would like to know is if anybody on here has ceramic coated headers, like Jett-Hot. With the exhaust design being so close to the radiator, having coated headers has got to help lower the water temperature. After this summer, I'm definitely considering having this done, because this heat has been unusually bad this year.

[CxBXR]

To answer your question about the manual fan switch, is NO I have one installed & I live in south Tx it is hot & in 3-miles of traffic Ive seen 230+* with the fan on 100% of the time.

[SBBXX]

Yes and no on the water pump. Most everybody on here is in agreement that when you are in stop and go traffic, keep the RPM's around 2,000 or so. This makes the water flow faster, and helps keep the bike cooler, but only when the fan is on.

It also keeps your battery from discharging, which it is doing at an alarming rate when you're at idle, and the fan is running.

I put a manual switch on my 84 VFR1000 because the fan came on very late. It worked great on that bike, but I have so far no need for it on the XX.

Oh, may I suggest you turn the bike off when at a long light, which I do often, or get yourself a carbed XX and it won't run as hot.

good luck

marty

[Texhoss]

I just went to Hondas premixed 50/50 water/antifreeze in my 2003 Bird with 9200 miles on it. Yes it cost more money but I think it was worth the improved cooling in the summer heat. The old fluid was 4 years old, and just wasn't cooling as well as it had been. The 4 to 8 degree reduction in heat makes it more comfortable on my ankles and legs. You need to just change the fluids, I think it will make a difference. Riding in 100 degree weather is a pain in the ass, when stuck in traffic. I wouldn't mind trying the water wetter product, next time.

[dunedain]

Personally, I think to much emphasis is placed on low speed hot running. A 50:50 mixture of coolant and water with a 16 lb. cap (1.1 Atm) will not boil until 260 F. You will not damage anything at this temperature.

However the only way you can reduce slow speed heating is to increase the cooling capacity of the radiator or increase airflow. Water Wetter makes it possible to remove more heat from the engine block, but unless you have a means to remove that additional heat from the radiator, you won't see any improvement.

Good stuff! I use Engine Ice but I too dont worry bout it. I've never bolied out on the blackbird with temp guage pegged and fan batheing me in the hot air blast and 105 degrees ambient.....no tellin how hot the melting asphalt was.

I use engine ice in dirt bikes that used to boil over duringlong enduros but the EI helped greatly.

[Jetsetter]

Hi all . I just joined this forum as I am picking up my first Blackbird in the morning .

I live in Vietnam and this is possibly the only BB in country at the moment . I had a CBR 750 here and it was such a pain to ride due to the excessive heat it gave off , I am hoping the Bird will be a little better.

As you can imagine its quite warm over here . I was concerned as the owner mentioned it runs at 240F , but after reading your comments here it might not be as big of a deal as i thought .

Lack of places to buy spares (none) , lack of knowlegable mechanic shops (none) and the language problems will see me constantly sourcing information from your site here .

One question , and forgive me for asking , why use a 50/50 mix when you could put 100% in it ? Wouldnt that keep it cooler ?

[redxxrdr]

Water is usually more efficient than coolant/water mix. But straight DISTILLED water does not prevent freezing or corrosion.

A 100% mix of Glycol based coolant is not as efficient. The 50/50 mix what Mr. Honda wants.

There have been posts on the board about waterless coolants. They are more expensive, and may not be available to you.

Your bike should cool fine when moving. Idle speeds, or riding behind cars will heat her up.

Download the Manual when you are on a highspeed line.

Manual

There is a guide for cooling issues. Use good coolant and always distilled water. I would pull the lower covers and tighten all the hose clamps. The clamps do loosen with age. Let the bike cool and make sure the radiator is full. Also wipe clean the seal on the cap and radiator.

Enjoy your new bike and welcome.