Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

The Bird was tested on track yesterday-***short vid update***


R1000

Recommended Posts

The bird was tested on track yesterday and it worked very well. Initially there were some movements at the rear in corners but increasing the rebound four clicks eliminated that. The front becomes airborne out of cornes both on second and third so the steering damper seems to be a good investment since no shakes occured.

The chassi works absolutely great, the longer and stiffer WP front springs in combination with the Hyperpro rear shock and raised rear harmonized well. I felt that other bikes on the track drove unnecessary slow into corners and those were sport bikes :icon_confused: . I runned on BT021's and a 16/46 gearing.

I was also impressed by the braking capability, the breaks are still linked and this caused no problems even though I had to use them deep into corners a few times.

The engine pulls very good up to the rev limit on 6th gear. My impression was that no other bike pulled as hard out on the long home straight, they just got smaller and smaller in the mirror :icon_angel: . I’ve also seen that the midrange power is very high compared to any modern stock 1000 CC machine and this helps a lot to get the important speed out of corners. It has e.g. between 20 and 40 more horses at 7 k rpm than the newest GSX R1000, ZX10R, CBR 1000 RR and YZF R1, MV Agusta F4R, Aprilis RSV 1000 R Factory and Ducati 1098S. It is only the -08 GSX R1000 that gives more power at any point and it is only 5 horses more above 11 k. Below 11 k the power difference is huge in favor to the bird.

I guess I don’t have to mention that it was fun as hell. :icon_biggrin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It didn't "turned me down?"

No it didn't :icon_evilgrin:

Perhaps the wording is wrong, beeing a silly Scandinavian isn't easy. I ment that the bike didn't make me look like newbie on track on a Goldwing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It didn't "turned me down?"

No it didn't :icon_evilgrin:

Perhaps the wording is wrong, beeing a silly Scandinavian isn't easy. I ment that the bike didn't make me look like newbie on track on a Goldwing.

That cracks me up!

You know there is the guy in the eastern US that goes like hell on his Goldwing, even has a nickname of "Yellow Wolf".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It didn't "turned me down?"

No it didn't :icon_evilgrin:

Perhaps the wording is wrong, beeing a silly Scandinavian isn't easy. I ment that the bike didn't make me look like newbie on track on a Goldwing.

That cracks me up!

You know there is the guy in the eastern US that goes like hell on his Goldwing, even has a nickname of "Yellow Wolf".

Yes I've also seen guys on Goldwings that many sport bike drivers would have great difficulties to follow on a twisty road. People with sport bikes often underestimates heavier bikes. Leaning a touring bike 40 degrees in a high speed turn will give far more speed than a sport bike that is leaned 30 degrees.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R1000 wrote:

The engine pulls very good up to the rev limit on 6th gear. My impression was that no other bike pulled as hard out on the long home straight, they just got smaller and smaller in the mirror . I’ve also seen that the midrange power is very high compared to any modern stock 1000 CC machine and this helps a lot to get the important speed out of corners. It has e.g. between 20 and 40 more horses at 7 k rpm than the newest GSX R1000, ZX10R, CBR 1000 RR and YZF R1, MV Agusta F4R, Aprilis RSV 1000 R Factory and Ducati 1098S.

Dude, I'm not sure what you are experiencing (or smoking???) but as a previous owner of an XX and the present owner of 2 CBR1000RRs (one for street and one for track), I gotta tell you, the Blackbird is a great bike, but it ain't going to compare with ANY of the modern litre bikes, and especially on the track. My stock '05 1000RR will pull away from an XX and being approx. 100 lbs lighter, will out corner it on any track you care to ride. HP vs. HP on stock bikes goes to the 1KRR or any other modern litre bike. If you were pulling away from the GSXRs, the 1000RR and the rest that you mentioned, you were either dreaming when that happened or you have had some serious motor work done on the Bird. Sorry to burst your bubble and wake you up, but hey, what are fellow forum members for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

xrated,

I never said that I outrunned all the newest GSX R1000, ZX10R, CBR 1000 RR and YZF R1, MV Agusta F4R, Aprilis RSV 1000 R Factory and Ducati 1098S on the track that day, just that the modified XX makes their power curves look very weak. However, the sportbikes that attended, were quite slow out of turns and on the straights compared to the XX.

Guess which engine in appended picture that pulls hardest out of turns and on straights :icon_whistle:

The modded bird also has additional assistance by beeing geared 16/46 for only 273 true km/h at 11 k.

I certainly agree that a modern sport bike can be driven faster in turns than a XX, but this requires the sport bike driver to be a better driver on track, or it doesn't help a bit.

I also have a GSX R1000 -03 that is only used on tracks, personally I do quicker laps with this machine due to the better handling, even though it has far less meat under the power curve than the XX. And there are drivers that outrun me on the track with 600 CC machines, life can be tuff :icon_shhh:

post-3595-1185355391.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

The bird was once more tested on a track, last evening. After the first session I was specifically asked not to run as fast on straights, the faster guys on modern sport bikes that came very close after curve sections couldn't overtake when I gave full throttle. I asked why don’t they just overtake in curves then? :icon_evilgrin: I know some of them were faster in curves but had no real motivation to held back between curves. Like Rossi when newbie’s outrun him by stronger machines, he just have to take it even if it hurts. No further similarities though, I'm not a fast track driver at all.

The vid shows the bird coming on inner line near the cam, succeded to keep second place into the curve after the home straight :icon_biggrin: . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F81tImbS-aE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

R1000, I'm going to test my Bird on track too (next Monday).

Could you please give me any kind of suggestion?

Tyres pressure, brake pads... boh... eveything that coudl be useful.

Thanks a lot :icon_biggrin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R1000, I'm going to test my Bird on track too (next Monday).

Could you please give me any kind of suggestion?

Tyres pressure, brake pads... boh... eveything that coudl be useful.

Thanks a lot :icon_biggrin:

Lucky you !

I used 39 PSI front and 37 rear. I don’t know if it was necessary to reduce the pressure, but the bike behaved quite well and the tyres heats a lot on a track. Check that the rear and front settings are in order and that the rear is not too hard or have to much rebound. It is easier to turn if the rear is on the smooth side if one is new to track driving. Put in a 6 mm thick washer on top of the rear shock if that has not already done.

I used SBS sintered high friction plates front and the bike brakes very good. In case you have relatively new pads, you can make them very grippy if you do a number of real hard stops before the track, which will bead them in nicely. I never used the rear brake, other than that it is used anyway by the stock dual brake system.

I good gearing also helps a lot, I used 16 T front and 46 T rear. The bird doesn't need to top almost 300 km/h on a track, it is better to make it stronger up to a lower top speed and get the gears closer that it will be w a lower gearing.

Most of all; take it calm and don't try to make a track record on the first lap. That would set you up and result in slower corner speed vs. if you come in at a lower speed and can begin to increase the speed thru the whole curve.

I', not a fast track driver, but after a few sessions I was able to hold a good position in the average group on track that was completely new for me and I'm not an experienced track driver. This tells me the bike, if prepared right, is much more capable on a track on the club level than most would believe. Some of the sport bike riders commented that they where not able to overtake as they are used to with sport-tourers and that was nice to hear. Talks, dyno curves etc are not worth anything compared to real world results.

Here is another short vid where the bird comes second quite a bit after a blue bike. The speed is much higher than on the first vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEan00sdwMk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you very much, R !! :icon_wink:

Next Monday I'll run on Magione circuit (central Italy). I will put my report nex day :icon_dance:

Looking forward to hear your findings !

I was in Italy this summer at the Garda lake, great roads and scenery over the Brenner passage and the norden Italy alps. I would like to return with the bike in the future, now it was a car trip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Note that he used a 46T on the rear. That will push the tire further up in the swing arm and give a shorter distance between tires which is about the equivalent of raising the rear end up with a spacer. I dont recall the distance the extra teeth and moving further in on the swing arm to the relation to raising the rear though...I dont remember if its a 1:1 or a 1:2 on in vs up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Note that he used a 46T on the rear. That will push the tire further up in the swing arm and give a shorter distance between tires which is about the equivalent of raising the rear end up with a spacer. I dont recall the distance the extra teeth and moving further in on the swing arm to the relation to raising the rear though...I dont remember if its a 1:1 or a 1:2 on in vs up.

You also have to note he is running a 16T up front. I also run a 16T front but with a 45T out back and it adds a little length having a smaller sprocket in front. Overall he is prolly fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 16/46 combo is very close to the same wheel base as stock (17/44 in Sweden). So it works very well with the 6 mm spacer. The spacer raises the bike 30 mm, which is a lot. Changing rear sprocket from 44 to 46 didn’t raise the rear noticeably; just made the bike more responsive.

A guy that tested the bike said it felt like a 600 CC, well I guess he referred to and old 600 ...Anyway, it shows that spacer, 16/46 gearing and all engine mods has improved the bike a lot. It is still perfectly stable at full speed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use