cbrxxquad Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 I had gotten Nik's oil pan to repair for a spare and decided to weld it last night. It has cracked when he tightened the drain plug, for those who don't know. I have done a lot of welding on porous aluminum, some meant to be that way for lightening, and skined with smooth metal to prevent leaking. Even some with honeycomb structure inside. And the Honda pan is not that solid either, and makes for some really hard welding that won't seep. But his was nothing but holes where it cracked, and nowhere else around the crack. Did not have a chance of staying together with the slightest pressure applied to it. Just to warn and to reduce the stigma. I did not think that pictures were needed but will if wanted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgeezer Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Did Nik torque the plug to spec? Or just give it one good tug??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted July 11, 2007 Author Share Posted July 11, 2007 Did Nik torque the plug to spec? Or just give it one good tug??? Swiss cheese, anybodys would have cracked!!! Was good metal around though, no holes. the sealing surface even had porosity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porterb123 Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Stan, What equipment are you welding with? TIG or MIG. Can you add a backer plate of Alum. and fill in the entire area? I've filed in some big ass holes in steel and alum. and then grind down . I know its not worth it, time or money wise. But I'm anal that way Man, I must have ass on the brain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted July 11, 2007 Author Share Posted July 11, 2007 Stan, What equipment are you welding with? TIG or MIG. Can you add a backer plate of Alum. and fill in the entire area? I've filed in some big ass holes in steel and alum. and then grind down . I know its not worth it, time or money wise. But I'm anal that way Man, I must have ass on the brain. 250 synrowave miller. I was able to liquidfy the metal till all the bubbles came out and put in some filler aluminum to make up for the loss in volume. I filled over with a few more passes to tie into the metal that was solid. I went ahead and closed the opening and am going to go over the inside and liquidfy to get the bubbles out and fill in the threaded hole. Will face off and redrill a drain hole. These pans are very porous and when I made mine for off road I was never ble to get it to stop seeping. Elton Fish Racing is making his like mine now and he powder coats to stop the leaks. I did penetrate good enough to remove the crack from the outside but will do the inside just to remove the stress. You said Ass,,,,,,,,a lot,,,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR71BLACKBIRDXX Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 N1K who?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 Is this worth it? What does a drain pan cost 100 bucks? I didn't think it was a good idea to weld casting material. Most welders woun't even touch the stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted July 13, 2007 Author Share Posted July 13, 2007 It takes skill, and really good equipment. And about 20 min. and $2.00. It was not about the cost or effort, it was all about why and who. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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