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turbo problems


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ok, haven't been here for awhile.

built my own turbo for my 02bird.

hahn header. (lasted less than 3k miles and cracked serious). going stainless this winter.

problem is, never has run well.

i've got pc3usb, and pc11 for tiiming.

begi regulator.

dynotec coils.

new plugs at .030.

evo111 gt turbo. 2.5" downpipe into dual 2" scoropions.

intercooler under the right mirror fairing with fans.

water injection. cooling mist brand.

2.5" square aluminum intake.

a/f meter.

msd knock sensor.

walbro pump, with a walbro hp coming this week. the stock walbro quits pumping past 80psi.

injectors flowed and within 2% of each other.

here's the problem.

it won't take boost past 6k.

i had it on a dyno last month (a guy in spokane has one for 100 bucks a day), and at 6psi it would only rev to 8k and misfire.

took it home and replaced the regulator (was an aeromotive unit) with begi.

redid the air intake system.

redid the fuel lines and checked the pump.

replaced the coils with dynotec units and replaced the plugs.

now it only revs to 6k!!!

no matter what i do with the fuel pressure or mapping, it misfires at 6k and wot.

it runs fine at part throttle, but refuses any wot.

any ideas?

when i make the intake manifold, i copied the stock unit, which has small holes for the trottle body breathers. is this a possible problem?

should the turbo manifold only have the four holes for the throttle bodies instead?

the busa site suggests plug gap of .018-.020"

is this possibly the problem?

thanx for any help.

when i get it running, i will post pics and dyno chart.

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Probably your fuel pressure regulator and maybe your injectors.

Most injectors start to have trouble opening when the fuel pressure climbs too high as it will if your fuel pressure regulator is piloted from the manifold pressure and does not have a linear spring.

A different look at the problem may find you have connected the boost pilot line improperly and are actually taking away fuel pressure rather than adding it.

Do you have either an A/F ratio monitor or an EGT sensor in the system somewhere? A fuel pressure gauge would be handy as well as a boost pressure gauge.

I read no mention of the waste gate control either, how are you limiting boost?

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ok, haven't been here for awhile.

built my own turbo for my 02bird.

hahn header. (lasted less than 3k miles and cracked serious). going stainless this winter.

problem is, never has run well.

i've got pc3usb, and pc11 for tiiming.

begi regulator.

dynotec coils.

new plugs at .030.

evo111 gt turbo. 2.5" downpipe into dual 2" scoropions.

intercooler under the right mirror fairing with fans.

water injection. cooling mist brand.

2.5" square aluminum intake.

a/f meter.

msd knock sensor.

walbro pump, with a walbro hp coming this week. the stock walbro quits pumping past 80psi.

injectors flowed and within 2% of each other.

here's the problem.

it won't take boost past 6k.

i had it on a dyno last month (a guy in spokane has one for 100 bucks a day), and at 6psi it would only rev to 8k and misfire.

took it home and replaced the regulator (was an aeromotive unit) with begi.

redid the air intake system.

redid the fuel lines and checked the pump.

replaced the coils with dynotec units and replaced the plugs.

now it only revs to 6k!!!

no matter what i do with the fuel pressure or mapping, it misfires at 6k and wot.

it runs fine at part throttle, but refuses any wot.

any ideas?

when i make the intake manifold, i copied the stock unit, which has small holes for the trottle body breathers. is this a possible problem?

should the turbo manifold only have the four holes for the throttle bodies instead?

the busa site suggests plug gap of .018-.020"

is this possibly the problem?

thanx for any help.

when i get it running, i will post pics and dyno chart.

How many pounds of boost are you wanting to run?

What does the AF meter show?

What numbers do you have in the PC cells for each rpm vs. throttle position?

Which BEGI regulator? Did you install the restrictor?

I would like to know what the fuel pressure is? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

What is the pressure at idle, atmospheric pressure, max fuel pressure.

What pressure is your water injection system set at? Where does it spray?

Where are you located?

I don't think plug gap is the problem. Like the busa site suggests mine are set at .022, but that's because our stock coils are weak and it helps prevent the spark from being "blown out" by high boost pressure.

What do you mean when you say throttle body breathers? Are you talking about little holes just above the starter valves? I doubt that's the problem, as I understand it the starter valves just allow extra air past the butterflies into the throttle bodies. Anyway when the bike is warmed up they're mostly closed.

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I have little hand's on experience but have read & studied plenty & have owned a turbo system before.

Here is a small check list to run though :

Make sure you water injection system isnt flooding the engine

Fuel pressure is not high enough to run above 6K RPM get a fuel pressure gauge to monitor this (likely the cause)

Make sure your exhaust/intercooler/plumbing is air tight otherwise (same symptoms)

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sorry so long to reply, and i really appreciate all the suggestions.

ok, yes i do have a fuel pressure gauge plumbed into the fuel rail. 50psi without the hose attached(after throttle bodies), which goes to about 35 at idle attached. i have to limit the pressure to 80psi at boost, because it is a holley unit(walbro), and at 90psi it flows nothing. I have a hp walbro 341gss unit coming thursday, which is good to over 100psi.

i am trying to run about 10psi boost with intercooler and water injection.

begi unit is their turbo and supercharger unit. forgot the number, but it allows for base setting, and rate of gain.

yes, i am using the restrictor.

i found out tonight that the dyna dc1-1 coils i put on are a problem. severe missing. honda specs on the primary coil side are 2.4-2.8ohms. dyna only has 2.0 and 3.0, and their tech suggested the 3.0. when i measured the resistance on their coils, they were 3.8; a full 1 ohm over honda spec. I put the factory coils back on and it stopped missing. don't know yet if it will take boost since it is too late, but i will tomarrow. i'll call them thursday about their coils.

i turned off the water(rubbing alchohol) to see if that was causing the problem. not.

16g evo 111 gt turbo, 7cm housing with oversized internal gate. i get 10psi by 6k and it holds steady.

a/f meter reads in the 12's currently, but i'm looking for about 12 flat or even high 11's.

my factory coils secondary side only read 22k, with the honda specs calling for minumum of 32k. that is why i bought the dyna coils, thinking that might be the problem. all it did was generate a new problem.

i will let u know if the plug regapping to .018 solved any problems in next couple of days.

at least it is ridable now, even if it won't take much boost.

there are over 200 of us going riding this saturday.

seattle to yakima and back, by way of loop around Mt. Rainer. pnwriders.

xx4me, i got your message, and i will soon.thanx,

thanx,pat

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I had the same problem with my nology coils, to low resistance, 3 worked good,, no more problems. 2 would not run. I also had to run resistor plugs when they suggest non-resistor.

No I don't have a turbo, yet!!

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interesting.

3 ohm worked for u. won't work for me. i'm gonna try the 2.0 ohm. I'll bet they measure over 2.0 ohm since the 3.0's measured 3.8.

as far as resister plugs, the stock iridiums measure 5k ohm.

stock wires also measured 5k ohm.

i'm gonna run msd 8.0's that measure 50ohm per foot if possible.

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Looks like you're onto the problem. Good deal.

What have you done with regards to your MAP sensor?

This last weekend I got rid of the hahn diode and replaced it with a check valve.

Works like a charm. Now I have a functional MAP sensor below atmospheric pressure and a check valve to vent boost so that the sensor isn't damaged.

Here's a link to Gary Evans site and his discussion about it.

MAP Sensor Info

I had to install a .025 restrictor after the 5-way splitter in the vacuum line to cut the volume of air.

I installed the component in this order; thottle bodies, 5-way splitter, restrictor, check valve, MAP sensor.

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The Nology stuff is really different, if you don't know. Has resistance coil in the wire. I was getting interference when I ran the non resistor they recommend.

(to follow up)

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haven't done anything with the map sensor yet. sounds like i will be copying yours.

what check valve did u use?

how can i post pics on this site?

Dis one Earls flapper valve

I removed the cap, cut the AN fitting off, drill and tapped for 1/8"NPT.

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how can i post pics on this site?

No need to host photos anywhere.

Use the Manage Current Attachments menu below the Add Reply window. You can click the Browse button to browse your PC hard drive, find the photo you want to attach to this post, UPLOAD it, then click on it in the Manage Current Attachments window when your cursor is where you want the photo attached.

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