twodealdrive Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 the book talks about the letters on the crank and rods will tell you which color bearings, if i remember correctly what about taking off another rod bearing cap and looking at the color of that bearing. Would that get me close in buying a new set? All the other main bearings looke good, rod big end too, and the journal of #3 has no scoring, scorching and discoloration. Can I clean things up, blow things out with compressed air and be good with just replacing the #3 bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 You should have a machinist measure the rod and the crank before putting in a new bearing. Something made the old one fail. The big end of the rod could be stretched out of round, and you would need to either bore it to the next larger size, or replace it. If it's not out of round, at least you will know the correct size, and you can order new bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Well, the number three is the first to go, if you lost oil pressure. Even for a very short time. Been doing wheelies? First, thing is if the bearing spun it is done. Need new rod, and the bearing surface on the crank will determine if it needs to be welded. EFR ( Elton Fish Racing is who I had do mine. Send him your crank and he will either fix yours or send you a repaired one. The thing is there is only .001 clearance for oil and anymore will do it again. Your oil pump may not be good enough to supply enough pressure. I compared one to a new one and was amazed at the pressure difference. Had no visible wear on the old one and the clearance looked good. I have to run a lot of pressure and an oil accumulator to counter act the lack of centrifugal force that the bike has to keep the oil down. Also have a baffle between the pan and block. I have another rod if you need one. You will need to mike the crank to know if it is still within spec. If it is not perfect I would repair. I would have to look at the book, but if I remember the letters tell which bearing goes on which journal. abcd aacd cabd something like that basically means the rod are the same but the journals for the rod to go on are different. you can plastic gauge and know but measuring is best. Need to measure and add to get the clearance. Need very good mikes also. Id and ball end to get it right. Not that easy if you are not set up to do it. There are tabs on the bearing. If they are gone send it off and get another rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDyno Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 ... and I switched to a 5w-40 Castrol full sythn motorcycle oil. I rode over 1700 miles before this problem started. With all due respect to you folks who have a lot more experience than I with Blackbird motors... In searching the Honda literature, I can not find 5W-40 oil recommended anywhere. As far as cause for bearing failure, are we perhaps missing the obvious? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR71BLACKBIRDXX Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 clock wise will extend it, counterclockwise shortens it, just like a screw would, just spring loaded, and has a ratching action to prevent anything from pushing it in but the screw. I wonder, if the notches are to large in the ratchets. I think it rattles and then the next notch picks up and it would be quiet. Screw clockwise would extend to the next notch if it could catch. Well it sounds like the problem is solved, but just a side note.. The CCT does not work that way. There are no "ratchets" in it. It simply unscrews itself with a slinky type spring. Not the best way to do it IMHO. If that spring ever fails..(which it probably never will)..the CCT could, in theroy unscrew itself. Which wouldnt be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 clock wise will extend it, counterclockwise shortens it, just like a screw would, just spring loaded, and has a ratching action to prevent anything from pushing it in but the screw. I wonder, if the notches are to large in the ratchets. I think it rattles and then the next notch picks up and it would be quiet. Screw clockwise would extend to the next notch if it could catch. Well it sounds like the problem is solved, but just a side note.. The CCT does not work that way. There are no "ratchets" in it. It simply unscrews itself with a slinky type spring. Not the best way to do it IMHO. If that spring ever fails..(which it probably never will)..the CCT could, in theroy unscrew itself. Which wouldnt be good. I may have been thinking about the quads and simular type, but it may be that worm gear thing that it is easy to extend but not compress. Good catch, thanks. If it did not resist compression that may be what is going out on all these cct's. Wonder if a quad one would work???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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