bartonmd Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 so I changed my front tire out today and went to balance it... Lowe and behold, there was play in the front wheel bearings. There was no play 8000 miles ago when I put that tire on, but there's plenty now... not enough that I could feel riding it, but enough that I'm driving the car for the next week or so, until my parts come in... There are no rough spots or grinding or anything... just loose bearing. Loose enough that I can move the wheel side to side and feel where it stops on both sides (on the front stand), and can see the wheel move a little bit... definately trashed! BTW, my bike's got 45,000 miles on it, mostly highway. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Dude, I wish I got 40K out of front bearings. I'm on my third set now, and have a 4th set in the garage waiting for me to put them in because they are already roaring a little. I'm at 41K miles, but I'm a fat kid too. The rear ones are fine, but I switched out rear wheels somewhere along the way (I have like 3 rear wheels) so that's not exactly accurate mileage on those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Bird Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Interesting, b/c I'm about to replace the WB's at 105,000 kms and I've never noticed anything in the past. I don't think the owner's manual mentions WB's. I'm probably late but I have a set from Jaws so when I install the new Storms I'll have the bearings replaces. What is the recommended kms prior to replacing? Please don't tell me anually, b/c it aint going to happen. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Mike, Where did you order your bearings from, and what brand? Mine turned 40k last night and I was worried about the motor blowing up, but now you say I need to worry about my wheel bearings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 it's not to say that they WILL go out... bearings should last a long time, but the action and side loading of a motorcycle front tire doesn't do good things to them, I'd immagine... there is not a service interval for them other than "check them" I am ordering them today... going to see if any local shops have them in stock first... If I order them, they will DEFINATELY be allballsracing bearings... Actually, they will probably be those, too, if I get them from a dealer, because Parts Unlimited and Tucker Rockey sell All Balls bearings... Just check them... get the front end lifted up by the forks and check the lateral play in the wheel. there should be none. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Last month I replaced the front and rear wheel bearings with the ones from AllBalls. They can ordered through University Motors. Front Set (Two Bearings): 25-1077 ($11.39) Rear Set (Three Bearings): 25-1358 ($21.36) These part numbers are for 97-98 XXs. The FI XX will use a different part number. Freeze the bearings for several hours prior to installation, makes it a little easier to install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwimack Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Last month I replaced the front and rear wheel bearings with the ones from AllBalls. They can ordered through University Motors. Front Set (Two Bearings): 25-1077 ($11.39) Rear Set (Three Bearings): 25-1358 ($21.36) These part numbers are for 97-98 XXs. The FI XX will use a different part number. Freeze the bearings for several hours prior to installation, makes it a little easier to install. Matt, whats the e-ddress of university motors, I am getting some british car club............................... never mind found it...................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 I called, and the local dealer has them in stock for the Honda parts... They sell them for MSRP ($20 each + $5 each for seals), but at 80 miles a day, at 3.40/gallon, how much does it cost me to drive to work for a week instead of ride? BTW, it was 11.39 for the SET... INCLUDING SEALS?? or 11.39 each side? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 UMotors 701.235.6478 The prices I posted are for the set, which includes all the bearings needed and the seals. But, IIRC, one of the seals that comes with the rear set was the wrong size, so I had to re-use a seal. Be gentle when removing your old seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 Well, the local place had both bearings and only one seal, so i called University and the AllBalls stuff was like $16.something, but he would have had to order it, but he had the Honda stuff in stock for $35.48 + 5.00 shipping. It's going out today and should be here Friday... I only saved like $14 over the dealership, but I would have had to wait for the seal to come in anyway, so oh well... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Yeap... my front bearings went at @ 35k ...at 62k now, so getting close to that time again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 That is funny,first thing I`ve noticed after coming back from Ozarks,my steering bearings are totally killed. Might as well I`ll do wheels also. FYI 95 k miles on original bearings,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Wow, I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but apparently I must be real hard on front wheel bearings. Since I seem to be the guy with the most experience at this, let me give you my take on this replacement process. The first thing you need to do is determine how you're gonna lift the front of the bike. I use the centerstand and a floorjack with a board under it and raise the front of the bike slightly off the floor by jacking on the bottom of the engine. I've also attempted it on the centerstand and using an engine lift and a chain pulling up on the triple trees, but that was about as safe as the LA riots, so I recommend the floor jack method. Anyway, break all the bolts loose BEFORE you lift the bike. It's steady when the front tire is up, but not steady enough for you to be bowing up on stuff. You'll need to break loose the 4 bolts at the ends of the forks, the axle bolt, and the right side caliper bolts. Remove the front fender, right caliper, loosen the 4 fork bolts (might have to pry them open with a prybar or screwdriver) and the axle nut itself. Slide the axle out, remove the front wheel (you don't have to remove the left caliper, the wheel will come out with it still on the bike). Once the wheel is off, the fun begins. Me personally, I take the rotors off at this point. I then lay down a sheet of cardboard or a board, or even an old blanket. Find a socket that is about the same diameter as the inner part of the bearing, and a Big Fuckin' Hammer (BFH). Line the socket up and whack it one good lick with the BFH. This transfers the force through the center bushing and actually pushes the opposite bearing out a little from the wheel. It also makes the bushing movable between the bearings. Then, you can take a big screwdriver, slide it down in the opening, and hammer the bearing the rest of the way out of the wheel. This also pushes the seal out without damaging it. Once that bearing is out, you can remove the center bushing and the other bearing is super easy to remove. To install, you're either going to want an actual tool that installs bearings, or you're gonna need a big socket that lines up with the outer edge of the new bearings. Then you hammer it in, flip the wheel over, reinstall that center bushing you removed, and hammer in the other side. From centerstand up to centerstand down, I can do this, even searching for tools, in about 30 minutes. Like I said before, I haven't done a rear wheel yet, but I can tell you that you need to pull the sprocket and cush drive side off first. Once the wheel is removed, there is nothing holding that cush drive in. Sometimes it slides right off, sometimes it doesn't and you actually have to pull on it. Make sure you keep those rubber bushings clean because if they get dirt on them, it makes it difficult to slide the sprocket drive back on the wheel. As you can tell, I've been there, done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Weird. Just Mounted my Pilot Powers yesterday :icon_thumbsup: and as usual checked my wheel bearings. At 78K miles still tight and smooth. Never changed a wheel bearing on a bike in my life. V65 had 72k miles on all its bearings no problems. One note, the old bearing makes an ideal tool to hammer the new bearing in. I had a hell of a time pulling my rear sprocket hub out of the rubbers. Had a build up of dirt right at the edge where the 2 metal parts meet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Ya' Know,,,,,,, I've only got 19K miles on my bike , but I swear I hear a "growling" from the front end at lower speeds. I thought it was just tire noise but now I'm having some second thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 This also pushes the seal out without damaging it. One thing I happened to think of... you are replacing the seals every time, right?? If the seals are loose (like happens when a bearing goes bad and the axle moves more than normal), they will let dirt and water in, and will shoot the new bearings in short order... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 I replace my seals everytime, but somebody had mentioned saving the seal because they couldn't get one, so I was just giving them a tip. BTW, you can't use the old bearing to drive in the new bearing because you will start driving in the old bearing because they sit in to the wheel too deep. You need to use a bearing driver or a socket. Been there, done that too! If the front end is growling or whining, it's the bearings. It's most noticeable under a side load, like when in a corner at 40 or so before the wind noise overrides the bearing noise. I don't know how you guys are getting so many miles out of bearings, but more power to you. They're not very expensive and once you've done it as much as I have it becomes very easy. The screwball part is I've gone through 3 sets of front wheel bearings but my steering head bearings have given me no problems as of yet. They are still tight, even at 41k and some change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 The clutch pilot bearing puller available for free rental at autozone with slide hammer works perfect pulling wheel bearings in no time. Use your old bearing as a cushion when knocking new one in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Will a bearing puller like this works better than a screwdriver and hammer? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=5469 and a bearing installer? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=92387 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 That set should work. I tried the hammer and screwdriver method and was beating up the edges too much. The bearing puller works faster with less damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 I think those wheel bearings,both fronts and outside rears are sealed type,those dust seals are not that important in this case. Putting new bearings in the freezer for couple of hours makes replacement job little easier. Anyway, I`ve ordered All Balls steering,front and rear kits from Dennis Kirk,30,15 and 30 bucks.Bearings and seals,free shipping. You can use those old bearings to balance your wheels,if they are O.K. of course.Remove dust seals ( bearings),wash the grease out with WD40,and bingo---you have low friction bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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