EVLXX Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 Whats the best proceedure ? The whole nine yards of it, from removeing panels, to flushing it, cleaning it, etc. I did a search an came up with alot about Water Wetter, alot of you like that stuff. So I'll probably grab some of that somewhere. Somewhere else though, I read were someone said they used Vinegar as a Flush and cleaner. I definately want to hear more about that, or whatever you guys use for a cleaner / de-scaler. Add, any thoughts or knowledge conserning the Long-life fluids ? Hopeing to do this tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 I've used the same method for each sportbike i've owned. Since none of them are really THAT old, flushes are usually marginally effective. Meaning that, they may need it, but if it went another year, it wouldn't be that big of a deal. Take off left fairing. Loosen radiator hose that goes to the base of the left side of the engine. On the xx it looks like the lowest place of the radiator system. I put the bike on its kickstand to lean it to that side, instead of the center stand. Yank the hose off. It will come gushing out...i had an empty wide mouth 5 gallon bucket nearby. Remove the radiator cap to help drain all the fluids. I usually put my finger inside the tube. If i feel anything gritty from the radiator breaking down, i will flush with the garden hose, cap, run, drain and reflush. Fill with whatever fluid makes you happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Bird Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 Motul, no other additives. Doesn't get that hot so I don't use anything else. I change coolant every two years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdman Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 Erik, I have been running this stuff in the last three bikes of mine for several years now. Evans NPG Ultra high boiling point, minimal expansion under heat, and because there's no water involved, there's absolutely no corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 15, 2007 Author Share Posted March 15, 2007 Thanks Tuff, I thought it would be straight forward, and it's nice to here that it is, before I actually dove in. J, Thanks for the info, Prick, It looks like a very good product, especially the part about it being a lifetime product. Now I gotta see if I can find it locally and in short order. (PS. My name is spelled with a "c", ya butt-hole, ... but then again if you were melting my name in with me being a Dick... then I understand. ) Does anybody think it's really neccesary to "super flush" the system with some type of cleaner or de-scaler ? Thoughts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 15, 2007 Author Share Posted March 15, 2007 J, Been reading a little more on that stuff, and found they do have a "Prep Fluid". Did you use that? Plus, it calls for a Zero pressure system, and sometimes a different water pump (I'm guessing because of the increased viscosity), so what did you do there ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 Eric, remove both side panels. Remove rad cap. Remove both drain plugs (one on water pump housing, the other behind the header on left side of engine. Drain, then refill with 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water, unless you're planning on changing fluid again before winter. If you are planning on changing again, then fill with distilled water & Water Wetter. It's really pretty easy, and I can swap out the fluid in about half an hour or so. As for flushing, I don't think it would be necessary, but you may want to fill with distilled water, run the engine, then drain it out once or twice. That should get rid of most of the remaining fluid. Draining the overflow bottle is a huge PITA, so I don't usually do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 15, 2007 Author Share Posted March 15, 2007 Thank C, What's your take on that Evans stuff ? (since you are still recomending the 50/50 mix, I'm guessing you don't like it for some reason, or just don't think it's worth the cost) Drain, then refill with 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water, unless you're planning on changing fluid again before winter. If you are planning on changing again, then fill with distilled water & Water Wetter. Draining the overflow bottle is a huge PITA, so I don't usually do it. As for drianing the Overflow bottle..... I think I have a big horse seringe with a clear tube on it somewhere in my garage. (bought it at the local feed store) I use it for sucking out the brake/clutch fluid resivors. So, it should work good for that too... thanks for makeing me think of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 Thank C, What's your take on that Evans stuff ? (since you are still recomending the 50/50 mix, I'm guessing you don't like it for some reason, or just don't think it's worth the cost) Never used it, but I'm of the opinion you should be changing it frequently, anyway. I change mine twice/year, so I only use a quality antifreeze over the winter to keep anything from freezing or corroding. I don't actually ride with it in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 FWIW, it's been over a year since I've done it, but if you follow the procedure in the manual, and leave the rad cap on until after you take the drain bolt out of the water pump, as it has drained as much as it will, it'll suck most of the coolant out of the burp bottle... Same as changing it in my wife's Neon... leave the rad cap on and it sucks it out of the overflow as it's draining... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdman Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 The beauty of Evans is that you never have to change it. No water = no corrosion. It doesn't break down and so far, none of the coolant in any of my bikes has even gotten dirty. The Evans requires that there be NO WATER in the engine at all. Instead of using the flush fluid, use Sierra antifreeze because it is also non-aqueaus. The stock water pump is fine and the radiator cap can remain, it just won't be required to hold pressure. Also, go with the NPG+ It's thinner and is designed for street use. The original NPG was thinck and designed for racing only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 15, 2007 Author Share Posted March 15, 2007 The beauty of Evans is that you never have to change it. No water = no corrosion. It doesn't break down and so far, none of the coolant in any of my bikes has even gotten dirty. The Evans requires that there be NO WATER in the engine at all. Instead of using the flush fluid, use Sierra antifreeze because it is also non-aqueaus. The stock water pump is fine and the radiator cap can remain, it just won't be required to hold pressure. Also, go with the NPG+ It's thinner and is designed for street use. The original NPG was thinck and designed for racing only. Non-Aqueaus... Now that's a funny word, That makes my head start to twist... OK... Well thanks for the update on the Rad cap and pump... although I think I'll find some way of modifying the stock cap to run at a much lower pressure. maybe heat up the spring or something. ... If you can tell...... yes I already bought some, ya fuck'n jerk, at $36 a gallon, I'm holding you responsible for that. Now... tell me more about this NO WATER flushing thing. How did you do that ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdman Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 OK... Well thanks for the update on the Rad cap and pump... although I think I'll find some way of modifying the stock cap to run at a much lower pressure. maybe heat up the spring or something. No need! The stuff doesn't expand until it gets to 370°F so there's almost no pressure in the entire cooling system. If you can tell...... yes I already bought some, ya fuck'n jerk, at $36 a gallon, I'm holding you responsible for that. Now... tell me more about this NO WATER flushing thing. How did you do that ? Drain the entire system and then burp it with compressed air. Fill the system with Sierra and run until hot. Drain again and burb, fill with NPG. Go ride. Psst, on eBay NPG is selling for $30 a gallon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 16, 2007 Author Share Posted March 16, 2007 Thanks Mike, for the tip about the resivior bottle. Psst, on eBay NPG is selling for $30 a gallon. Thanks again... will do. $30 a gallon on eBay is probably equivlant to my $36.17 after tax locally, once you add in shipping. It's a funny thing really... I enjoy doing maintenance on my bike withthe exception of Rad. fluid, it's the one thing that for some reason I just hate dueing, go figure. So yes.... never having to change it again is very, very appealling. But the most appealling part is the resistance to localized nucleation, since I've done a few things to my fuel curves. It just makes me feel a little safer now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Interesting. Never heard of that stuff you guys are talking about. Yet another way for me to spend money and justify it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 Drain the entire system and then burb it with compressed air. Do you BURP it by putting the air in the cap area or up from the bottom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdman Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 Drain the entire system and then burb it with compressed air. Do you BURP it by putting the air in the cap area or up from the bottom? OOPS.......... I put air into the top and the bottom, with the bike leaned to one side and then the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 17, 2007 Author Share Posted March 17, 2007 Drain the entire system and then burb it with compressed air. Do you BURP it by putting the air in the cap area or up from the bottom? OOPS.......... I put air into the top and the bottom, with the bike leaned to one side and then the other. I got a good visual of you Burping your bike big J., and it has nothing to do with compressed air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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