silverbird1100 Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Really well actually, just kinda stumbled across this. The bolt is the perfect size, I've actually never had a bolt go in so smooth, you can feel it with you finger on the other side (yea, still talking about the frame slider ) it stops right where the stock bolt stops. The indentation around the frame houses the base of the slider I think as close as you are going to get without a perfect match. I am wondering if this need to be a snug fit because it's not, but I'd say less than 1/2mm of free play if you put it in place w/o the bolt. Not looking forward to cutting the fairings though. The left side also needs a couple of 2mm washers to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbird1100 Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 One more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Very cool... A couple things though... 1. How far do they stick out with the fairing on?? They don't look like they stick out all that far... 2. you will want to watch the Aluminum... it looks good, but in a slide on pavement, AL will tend to dig in and stick to the pavement, and the AL is the same strength, or stronger, than the frame and the threads in the engine case, so when hitting the ground, I'd be concerned about the AL slider not deforming like a Nylon or PTFE slider, and mangling the frame and ripping the threads out of the engine case, totalling the bike when it could have just been a cosmetic lowside... Nylon sliders, on the other hand, melt between the slider and the road, acually lubricating the slider as it's sliding along the road, and even in a hit, the slider is softer than the frame, so the slider will deform and bend over before it botches the frame and threads in the engine... Also, just falling over in a parking lot, I'd be worried about not having the cousioning effects of the Nylon, and the AL slider transfering all the impact force to the bike, and botching the frame that way... Just some things to look out for, and be aware of... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 I was wondering if you had checked the forks at full compression and extension, with the caps at the extremes of the adjustment to make sure the rebound valve doesnt hit the top or bottom of the cartridge. I have the caps but i havent got around to installing them yet. Thanks Herb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbird1100 Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 I was wondering if you had checked the forks at full compression and extension, with the caps at the extremes of the adjustment to make sure the rebound valve doesnt hit the top or bottom of the cartridge. I have the caps but i havent got around to installing them yet. Thanks Herb I had the forks re-build by a professional after installing the caps and he say no problem with them whatsoever. You just have to make sure you compensate by cutting the collar for the different length of the new parts. You do need to buy a new washer with the cutout to make room for the damping rod. I worry about the AL too. These were giving to me with the 900RR I bought, unused. Are they just for bling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 I worry about the AL too. These were giving to me with the 900RR I bought, unused. Are they just for bling? I don't know, but the material properties of AL don't make as good of a "slider" as Nylon... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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