testrider Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Hi all, After installing the lowered foot peg brackets of Dave, my rear brake pedal is too high. However, it was already adjusted to the lowest. I'm wondering it it's ok to remove the upper adjustment nut completely so that the brake pedal presses on the push rod nut and therefore the brake pedal is lowered? Thanks! -mike- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Hi all, After installing the lowered foot peg brackets of Dave, my rear brake pedal is too high. However, it was already adjusted to the lowest. I'm wondering it it's ok to remove the upper adjustment nut completely so that the brake pedal presses on the push rod nut and therefore the brake pedal is lowered? Thanks! -mike- Thats fine. I had to cut the adjusting screw to get mine to adjust enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 John, By "cutting the adjusting screw" I supposed that you made it thinner so that you have a little more room for adjustment? That won't be enough for me. I will have to remove it completely to get the height I want... -mike- Thats fine. I had to cut the adjusting screw to get mine to adjust enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Not the nut, I removed the locking nut and cut the screw to allow it to have more adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 Not the nut, I removed the locking nut and cut the screw to allow it to have more adjustment. So you pedal is now stopped by the push rod nut, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Yes. But teh adjuster screw hit the end of the box therefore I had to cut it to make room to adjust up more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stretch Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 Mike, I had the same problem, didn't want to make any changes I couldn't reverse. I ordered a new brake lever and had a friend cut and weld in to an "s" shaped brake lever much like on some dirt bikes. I can put it back stock and had to make no adjustments on the bike itself. Just my $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted December 18, 2006 Author Share Posted December 18, 2006 Mike, I had the same problem, didn't want to make any changes I couldn't reverse. I ordered a new brake lever and had a friend cut and weld in to an "s" shaped brake lever much like on some dirt bikes. I can put it back stock and had to make no adjustments on the bike itself. Just my $.02 Nice work! You really went the extra mile to get the brake pedal lowered... :-) Is the stock brake lever aluminum or steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 Aluminum. :icon_doh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 Yes. But teh adjuster screw hit the end of the box therefore I had to cut it to make room to adjust up more. Works perfectly. You don't have to cut much off. I checked it and mine could readily be returned to the stock position. I can't imagine raising the pedal anyway...you'd have to have a double jointed ankle, wear sandals, and sit on the back seat to use the brake pedal without taking your foot off the peg if it were raised UP from the stock position. And as far as cutting the pushrod......well, its a $14 threaded rod, as opposed to a $75 cast aluminum brake pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFT Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 Where did you get the frame plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted December 18, 2006 Author Share Posted December 18, 2006 Ok, to take off the pedal, I just keep turning the nut on the pushrod, right? When I tried to turn it, the rubber got twisted. Is the rubber supposed to turn with the nut or not? Sorry for the dumb question :-) Thank you all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01xxallen Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 Ok, to take off the pedal, I just keep turning the nut on the pushrod, right? When I tried to turn it, the rubber got twisted. Is the rubber supposed to turn with the nut or not? Sorry for the dumb question :-) Thank you all! If you are adjusting the pedal: The repair manual tells to turn the pushrod. No, the rubber is not supposed to turn in a perfect world. However, if you are taking off the locknut, I'd suggest taking the tiny cotter key out, pulling the pin and spinning the clevis. You may want to trim the threaded rod to make sure it clears the pin when you screw the clevis all the way up. I'd suggest this, go to your local boat store and look for a "cotter ring". They are used on sailboats instead of cotter keys. They look like a tiny split key ring, are made of stainless, are reusable, more secure, and easier to remove. (from this location, it's torture.) Also, I removed the two hex screws that hold the brake M/C to the pedal assembly to gain a little flex. Be prepared to adjust the brake light switch also, once you move the pedal down the brake light will come on. It mounts to the back of the pedal assembly and in theory can be adjusted with your fingers by turning the ring. In practice, it may be easier to remove the pedal assembly from the frame (and the exhaust mounting bolt) to gain access to the back of the pedal assembly. Someone said: In theory, practice and theory are the same; in practice they are not. You'll feel great when you fix it yourself (and learn a lot.) That's how I get all my tools, one at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 Well I have fitted mine and wow what a difference it makes, so much more comfortable on my knees and I am not getting the pressure on my feet anymore when I lean forward . The brackets themselves are great and I had no problem with them fitting into the hangers or the pegs fitting on the male tang, If anything they were slightly loose, I did have to file the bottom of the gullet in the peg to get the pin holes to line up and to get the pegs down level as the pegs were angled upwards quite a bit but that was it. [attachmentid=5716][attachmentid=5717][attachmentid=5718] [attachmentid=5719][attachmentid=5720][attachmentid=5721] [attachmentid=5724][attachmentid=5725] [attachmentid=5722][attachmentid=5723][attachmentid=5726][attachmentid=5727] As far as the levers go - The gear lever I just moved one notch down but I had problems with my size 14 foot getting under the shift lever because of the side stand. I did think about grinding off the little tang sticking out the side of it but decided instead to put a small bolt in the back near the pivot point ( pics 7 + 9 ) to stop the side stand coming up too far, I also unbolted the side stand and put a couple of washers under the front on the bolt to cant the side stand inward to the exhaust, I may end up fabricating a wedge shaped plate to make it neater With the brake pedal I wound it down as far as it goes but that wasn't enough so as someone else suggested I unbolted everything, took the pin out of the pedal and ground the end of the adjusting bolt, took the lock nut off and put it inside the connecting linkage on the thread and the wound the linkage and nut on together as you can see in pics 11 + 12 this enabled me to get the pedal down further The only real negative is a slight sloppyness to the pegs when they are lifted up but some more tension on the spring or new springs should solve that - Thanks again Dave you are a lifesaver ( or at least a knee saver ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stretch Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 [attachmentid=5728]Para045, Great idea canting the sidestand inboard, I'll have to try that. The bolt stop for the side stand, well it's been tried and there is a problem. At extreme lean angles, the sidestand will touch down and really screw thing up in the middle of a hard left hander!!!! It will cause the rear to step out!!! (Don't ask me how I know) I opted for a small sillicone bumper, it will give a little and let you feel the sidestand touching down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 [attachmentid=5728]Para045, Great idea canting the sidestand inboard, I'll have to try that. The bolt stop for the side stand, well it's been tried and there is a problem. At extreme lean angles, the sidestand will touch down and really screw thing up in the middle of a hard left hander!!!! It will cause the rear to step out!!! (Don't ask me how I know) I opted for a small sillicone bumper, it will give a little and let you feel the sidestand touching down. That is actually one thing that was in my mind as well when I first put the bolt in the stand - I was looking at the stand foot being almost level with the end of the peg and being lower I was worried it may touch the ground as you say so canting the stand in solved two problems :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted December 23, 2006 Author Share Posted December 23, 2006 But after the sidestand was canted, wouldn't that make the bike lean way over while it's on sidestand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 But after the sidestand was canted, wouldn't that make the bike lean way over while it's on sidestand? It is only canted in the horizontal axis - when you pivot the side stand down it is still in the same vertical axis so no it doesn't lean any more than before :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01xxallen Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 I took the nut off the adjuster and cut about 1/4" off the threaded shaft with a Dremel tool. I then screwed the clevis all the way to the top of the shaft. I also squeezed the clevis together a bit to make getting the cotter pin back in a little easier. (I used a split ring) I found the easiest way to adjust the brake light switch was to remove the spring from the pedal and switch, lift the switch out of the peg assembly and screw the adjuster ALL the way to the top. Reassemble and with the brake pedal as far down as it will go, the brake light is about right too. It's nothing that can't be reversed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Since this is covered in 3 places on 2 different web sites I'll put it in all. I also cut the stud shorter and removed the lock nut and now with the stud threaded all the way to its nut into the U bracket I hope the brake pedal is now low enough. Stretch what kind of glue did you use for your sidestand bumper? I used Gorilla glue to glue a piece of black plastic at the same place. So far it's holding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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