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EURO SWITCHES


kiwimack

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Anybody know exactly what are the additional switches on the left and right euro handlebar switches.

On the right side, there's a switch directly above the starter switch that turns the lights on and off. I have this one to install this winter.

Not sure on the left, but I believe there's a headlight flasher switch for flashing your beams at oncoming cars.

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I believe on the left switch there is a flash to pass switch and on the right there is a three position switch for the front maker light (under the headlight), running lights and headlamp. I have the right one on my 97 and use it to cut out my headlamp to prevent the start up cycle on my HID.

Kinley

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Left: Same, except for the addition of a "Flash to pass" button.

Right: Same, with the addition of the headlight switch. The headlight switch has three settings... Off, Juset parking lamps, all lights on.

If you plug and play it, the OFF function doesn't work. Both the OFF and Parking lamp positions will have the parking lamps on.

If you splice a wire, you can have it kill all the lights... also known as "Stealth" mode...

Not that I have it set up that way... :icon_whistle:

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The headlight switch has three settings... Off, Juset parking lamps, all lights on.

If you plug and play it, the OFF function doesn't work. Both the OFF and Parking lamp positions will have the parking lamps on.

If you splice a wire, you can have it kill all the lights... also known as "Stealth" mode...

Not that I have it set up that way... :icon_whistle:

Did you ever do an instructional thread on how you (did or didn't :icon_shhh: ) set it up, Ben? I have to do some splicing or trick modifying to get my shorter harness '97 Euro pod to work for the longer harness "03 FI setup (thought I'd do it right, possibly by pirating a good part of the longer harness from the '03's U.S. pod) and might as well do it like you (may or may not :icon_wink: ) have done it.

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I don't have any pics of the install... maybe I'll snap some this winter when the tank is off.

First, you splice into the euro switch's harness before you pop it on the bike. Compare the plug on the end to the plug on the American model's. You'll find that there are two extra wires on the Euro model. I cut these an inch or so from the connector (the end that plugs into the bike's wiring harness, just in case someone doesn't know.) I then spliced on a length of wiring to each of the two cut wires coming FROM the switch. I took some four lead trailer wire and pulled off two of the leads, leaving a double strand about 5 feet long. I connected it in, and heatshrinked the connection.

Then you pop off the old switch assembly. A little trivia here: the bottom half of the euro switch assembly is the same as the American model... so if your old one is in better shape, just swap the top.

Put on the euro switch, and feed the wire harness down the to connector under the instrument cluster. I reconnected it, then zip tied the two loose wires to the bike's side of the wiring harness. I then threaded the wiring through the bike, under the tank, to the fuse box.

At the fuse box I spliced into the wire coming off the fuse for the bike's lights. I cut that wire, then spliced in the two wires from the euro switch. I don't think it mattered which wire went where. I heatshrinked those connectors, and I was in business.

The only down side is that when you are in stealth mode you also don't have any power to the gauges. I like that, though... it's an easy way to be reminded that you're blacked out.

You may find that once you have the euro switch you'll catch yourself forgetting to turn on your headlight... it's now a reflexive motion for me to fiddle with the switch at stop lights, making sure it's pushed on all the way to the left.

Hope this helps.

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