Amherst XX Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Okay, so I've got a Dyno Day coming up in the spring and I was wondering if anyone had any "tricks" up their sleeves that'll help me eek out a certain ZX-12 owner that has been shooting his mouth off for quite some time. I was thinking of NOS but have no idea which application would be appropriate for a carbed XX. I thought there was something called a sneaky pete system that was concealed and good for one or two passes before needing refilled. Any help would be great. Not a big deal...it's a charity Dyno Day so the real winner is the Crohn's and Colitis foundation of Canada but I'd love to see the look on his face if I could best him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Change your gearing. You'll probably be making the pass in 4th or 5th, so by dropping 1 or 2 up front and going up 1 or so on the rear (so it's not obvious) will trick the dyno into thinking you're putting down more power. Air your tire up to like 42 psi. Less contact area with the drum is less parasitic loss, and if you do it N/A, you won't have a problem with it spinning the tire. Remove your air filter. You're on a dyno, so it won't have much of a chance of sucking anything in. Not smart if you ride to the event, unless it's short distance. Even then I don't think I'd risk it. But that's free horsepower right there. If you do nitrous, you'll have to do a small bottle under the tank and it will have to be a wet kit since you have a carbed bird. There's no easy way to do it without going direct port, and that's a lot of money just to beat a guy on a dyno. I have a direct port kit, and it's not something you can throw on and hide really easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 run an almost bald tire less rotational mass and also shorter distance per reveolution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amherst XX Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 Thanks for the tips guys. As for the air filter thing....how would the bike run without the air filter....would it be too lean...would there be a risk of damage? I have done some research into the Nitrous thing and it looks like I'll be staring down the barrel of about $500 to get setup. That IS alot just to win bragging rights. I would love to have a Nitrous system someday but not sure it's in the budget for this winter. That being said...if one of you Nitrous experts have the time have a look at this website and tell me what you think. Might be a cheaper way out but how much higher is the risk of engine damage? http://www.diy-nitrous.fsnet.co.uk/motorcy...tion-system.htm Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX4me Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 As for the air filter thing....how would the bike run without the air filter....would it be too lean...would there be a risk of damage? No chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 As for the air filter thing....how would the bike run without the air filter....would it be too lean...would there be a risk of damage? No chance. Ditto especially if it's an FI model Also if you do it in the cool of the morning and go first and then delay him to the ambient air temp goes up a couple of degrees. Make sure your chain and sprockets are completely cleaned and oiled (if not fully new) to reduce friction. If you want more then make sure you're running aluminium rear sproket. And you can take off the rear break disk but they notice. The point here being reducing spinning weight. Put nitrogen in the tires and leave the valve stem cap off. make sure the wheel is clean and polished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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