cbrxxquad Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 For those there at texxt know how much trouble I was having and thought it was injectors,,,went to clean them last night and when I pulled the vacumn hose off the regulator gas ran out. Shit that is not suposed to happen. Did a search here and found the one that Turbo city has and ordered it overnight. Will post the readings on the board of the o2 sensor and pc2 adjustments when I get results. Tom (turbotom) is a nice guy and cut me a deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Hey Stan, turbo city ( which is a couple of miles from me ) modifies the regulator to run a bit higher pressure. I don't remember the number though. As part of my ongoing investigation into my bad mileage I talked to Gary, I believe, over there for a bit. He believes that Honda runs the bikes a bit lean for epa reasons. So they just put a stronger spring on the regulator. He seemed extremely knowledgeable, and was very good to talk with. The other interesting point he made is that the rich spot all the dyno charts show at lower rpms is actually the accelerator pump function causing a momentary richening. I'll be interested to hear how this works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 The other interesting point he made is that the rich spot all the dyno charts show at lower rpms is actually the accelerator pump function causing a momentary richening. The accelerator pump function is only on PCIII USB if I'm not mistaken. And it needs to be enabled as it's not on by default. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 If any of you guys do this, can you please find out what he raises the fuel pressure to? Enquiring minds want to know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdman Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Stan, Turbo City Tom is a great guy and he stands behind his products. I have a modified FPR on my ST1300 and it fixed the dreaded throttle twitchiness instantly. When you find out what pressure the new XX FPR is set at, I would like to know as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 27, 2006 Author Share Posted October 27, 2006 not sure how I can get the fuel pressure. Any ideas where to tap into. Just found out the 2000 is different from the rest and lower pressure and will not fit. Learn something everyday here. I guess I could tee the return but that is after the reg, the feed is banjo, need a feed cap tap,,,oh wait there is a tap in the fuel pump outlet. I will see if I can match that to a gauge. Kinda talking out loud,,,,sorry I do that . :icon_duh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 IIRC, 99-2000 use 45psi regulator, 01-up use 50psi. Just wondering what the modified regulator runs at, and somebody would have to ask Tom that question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 The other interesting point he made is that the rich spot all the dyno charts show at lower rpms is actually the accelerator pump function causing a momentary richening. The accelerator pump function is only on PCIII USB if I'm not mistaken. And it needs to be enabled as it's not on by default. His comment was about the Honda ECU accelerator pump function. Certainly car FI's have it, any reason to believe that the Bird would not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 28, 2006 Author Share Posted October 28, 2006 42 psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 The accelerator pump function is only on PCIII USB if I'm not mistaken. And it needs to be enabled as it's not on by default. His comment was about the Honda ECU accelerator pump function. Certainly car FI's have it, any reason to believe that the Bird would not? Sorry my mistake.... I though u were refering to the PC's.... :icon_wall: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markvmod1 Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 Tom usually engraves the PSI on the side of the regulator, should let him know your altitude, pipes and if you have a K& N filter as he can vary the psig of the regulator to accomadate those changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 28, 2006 Author Share Posted October 28, 2006 I did not see any markings, did not see any means to change settings. Not sure how he does the change. The bag it came in had 42 psi on it. Looked exactly like the stock one. At 100 dollars more than stock he must be deep in equipment to do the mods. Just installed last night, and the flooding has left some residual problems even on the new set of plugs. As I am blocked in with test equipment and can not go out for a ride to clear out the cylinders yet with just reving the motor, and setting the idle, the first thing I can tell is the response of the throttle is instant. Idle is much lower, and has a drop that it never has had from 1500 to 750. I am thinking there is a problem with my trottle bodies that I saw and tried to clean but not sure what it is doing yet. There is a vacumn cylinder on the left that moves a bar and opens a pin in each cylinder. Number three is different, in that the others have plastic bushings and a nut to do adjustments. I will have to look in the book, but I thought they were for sync. However number three has no bushings or screw, when I noticed it was stuck out, and when I touched it it went in. So I cleaned it with carb cleaner, and tried to move the bar to pull them out to work them wet and get off what was stickin them but the vacumn cylinder prevented it. Wonder if the sticking of this is the drop in idle that is not consistenty happening. Seams to be getting better and more consistent, which would make sence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 There is a vacumn cylinder on the left that moves a bar and opens a pin in each cylinder. Number three is different, in that the others have plastic bushings and a nut to do adjustments. I will have to look in the book, but I thought they were for sync. However number three has no bushings or screw, That cylinder is the wax unit for the fast idle, and the reason only 3 cylinders use adjusters is that you balance the rest of the cylinders to #3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 28, 2006 Author Share Posted October 28, 2006 you think that is why the idle drops to low is the needles are sticking that it operates??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 you think that is why the idle drops to low is the needles are sticking that it operates??? It's definitely possible. How fast is the engine idling when you first start it cold? I would guess that if they were sticking, your idle would change very little from cold to warm until the valve actually moves, then it would drop suddenly. Is that what is happening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 you think that is why the idle drops to low is the needles are sticking that it operates??? It's definitely possible. How fast is the engine idling when you first start it cold? I would guess that if they were sticking, your idle would change very little from cold to warm until the valve actually moves, then it would drop suddenly. Is that what is happening? yep, sounds close to what is happining. With the new reg. after warmed I can adjust the idle down lower and it will drop from 1500 to 500 if I adjust the throttle by hand. Can't seam to get the idle screw right just yet to hold the idle at 750. Some times it will not drop and sometimes it will take a few seconds. I think I have had this problem for so long they have been pulled out and not going in that they had a build up on them. It is getting better the more I work it. I have to wire up some things before I can put it all together again and ride it. Want to put a guage on the fuel pump to get a real reading on the pressure for Tom, as well as o2 readings. Need to get a cig lighter plug mounted, etc. now that I have time. Thanks North. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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