scott s. Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 i was thinking about a 1200 kit this winter.something to do you know.just wondered if anyone on the board has done this.going to have it ported and polished to.is relyability a problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 Nope. Just make sure there's a gap between the valve and the piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 Nope. Just make sure there's a gap between the valve and the piston. ROFL ....... ouch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott s. Posted October 25, 2006 Author Share Posted October 25, 2006 why would i want a gap between the valve and pistion i thought i was riding a jack hammer!!!!!!!!!! :icon_wall: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 Bang for the buck, bore & head work isn't the way to go, IMNSHO. If you are going to spend $3k+ why not do something really fun like turbo it? Or save the $$ and toss a dry-shot on it for the same gains. Otherwise, no, it doesn't hurt reliability, but will require a complete tune from top to bottom for best results. Additionally, I would use the PC3 for fuel, not the PC2. what has to be done to convert a 2000 to use the pc3,,,get wire and computer for newer model???? Have pc2 on 2000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 i was thinking about a 1200 kit this winter.something to do you know.just wondered if anyone on the board has done this.going to have it ported and polished to.is relyability a problem? Depends on what you're after in the long run. If you're looking for max power gains, go with a turbo. If you're looking for the occasional burst, go with the NOS. If you're like me, and just want more power/torque all around, then go with the big bore. As Joe said, no reliability issues once you get enough valve/piston clearance. :icon_doh: A good porting job is necessary, IMO, with any increase in displacement, but you can leave the stock valves in with a 1200. Cams are up to you, but you can gain a few more hp with the bigger cams, without sacrificing midrange torque. Do yourself a big favor and buy a really good exhaust system. Ti-Force or Akrapovic. The Ti-Force is the better pipe, with the Akra very close in performance but priced ~$500 less. what has to be done to convert a 2000 to use the pc3,,,get wire and computer for newer model???? Have pc2 on 2000. According to Dynojet, they no longer make the PCII, it's only PCIII USB's now. I also have a PCII on my 2000, and a PCIII (they now make them for the 99-01) on the way. AFAIK, the PCIII does not have a timing function, so I may keep the PCII for timing purposes only. The PCIII USB is definitely easier and faster to tune with direct injector control vs. the sensor "adjusting" system the PCII uses. I have large changes in my baro sensor adjustment with the PCII, which triggers the FI light at lower elevations if I use a large rpm range (roll-ons in 4th gear to redline for instance). If you can get a timing module for the XX w/PCIII, that would eliminate the need for the PCII. If you already have the pc2, use it. It is just easier w/ the 3. Agreed if your engine is stock or close to it. PCII is fine for smaller adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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