Mekanix Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 Burned off the last of my Michelin pro pilot and slapped a Dunlop Qualifier on the front as well as tightened the steering nut. I probably should have got a Michelin, but the price was right. Anyhoo, the bird has gotten really squirrely since then, wiggles like my dog's tail behind a semi and just feels dangerous to drive over say ~90ish. Tracks the cracked asphalt so bad the only way to run is to avoid the cracks or lean really hard into it and the tracking goes away. Because it's squirrely, I don't like leaning that much. I was picking the bike apart today and noticed my rear tire is cupped. Huh? It's a little old but, the rear tire is cupped? Has this happened to anyone else? Been pretty religious about air pressure for a while, and have been working on chicken strips so I don't know exactly when it happened, but it only got squirrely after the front tire change. I guess I am getting a new rear tire, but... could this be causing the handling? should I be looking at anything else? 45k on the ticker. has this happened to anyone else? What to put on the back? Open to suggestions. Any info would be appreciated Johnny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 You got something wrong with the front. It was fine before the new tire and steering head adjustment right? Make sure the tire is mounted in the right direction. Make sure it's balanced correctly. Make sure the bearings aren't too tight. Carefully inspect the front tire. I put on a used Dunlop once. It was one I took off myself,so I knew it's history. after 200 miles it developed a wicked headshake. When I pulled the tire the bead was broken. It looked fine on the rim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackStreet Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 I've got Dunlop Qualifiers but I don't have any of what you describe. I did replace both at the same time. I may replace a rear and keep a front one time but I would not mix brands or models. I suggest you get the matching rear for the front you have and have the bike checked out by a pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanix Posted July 28, 2006 Author Share Posted July 28, 2006 OK, double checked rotation and balance and remounted the tire to the forks. I bumped the air to 45 front and back and the wiggle is much less pronounced. Also checked the neck again and it still is within specs. The front is brand new so I am thinking the back tire rubber is just old and probably should be replaced anyway. BTW, no horn + no blinkers = bad turn signal relay. wall + 'percussive maintenance' (whack whack whack) = good turn signal relay. I ordered a new one anyway I'm gonna swing by my buddy at the Triumph shop and see what he thinks too, keep y'all informed. Johnny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 The front is brand new so I am thinking the back tire rubber is just old and probably should be replaced anyway. If the rear looks that bad then yes replace it. Do not overlook that front tire being bad. New does not = not fucked up. If you take you hands off the bars at speed do the bars shake? If so... front tire is most likely your culprit. It's the one major change you have made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgeezer Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 You got something wrong with the front. It was fine before the new tire and steering head adjustment right? Make sure the tire is mounted in the right direction. Make sure it's balanced correctly. Make sure the bearings aren't too tight. Everything Brett said. I had Dunlop 208's (predecessor to the Qualifier) front and rear and they were excellent and never had a problem. But I changed them as a set, not just adding a new front one while keeping an old rear of a different brand. Have Michelin Pilot Roads now and am well pleased thus far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 +1 on the bad tire thing. I had a new D208 front fitted on my K12RS a couple of years ago and could barely ride the bike around the block. Side to side vibration in the bars at speeds over 45 that threatened to become a tank slapper at around 60. Turned out to be a defective tire. Runout was OK, beads seated all the way around, all looked good, damn thing just wouldn't track above 45 mph. New MEZ-4 (told you it was awhile ago) fixed it right up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 Dunlop sucks.That is all. Always check the ride height when switching to diff. tire. 10 mm difference is not that uncommon,that can couse huge handling problems if not corrected via fork sliding,shims etc.Performance/track tires are usually taller then street tires. That is the 1st thing to do in case like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 When you said the head bearings were "still within spec", did you go with the fish scale pull as described in the manual? If so, my recommendation is to back the head bearings off a bit and try it again. Even my dealer says Honda is out to lunch with that tight of a spec. FWIW, tight head bearings will cause oscillations of the front end above 60mph, and will be more pronounced at higher speeds than that. IMO, it's an easy modification, and certainly cheaper than buying another new tire. How many miles on the bike? It's possible the stock bearings are fucked, and not just loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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