cyoungesq Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 New to this site . . . apologies if someone has already enquired as to my utterly frustrating problem - gas leaking from the base of my tank on a 1999 Blackbird. Visual inspection shows fuel weeping at a noticable rate (puddling) from the oval gasket that is to form the seal between the inverted/inserted fuel pump and the tank. Had a Honda dealer try, on their advise - replaced the tank. Didn't work. Over time, I have since replaced the gasket numerous times, was very careful not to "overtorque" the 6 bolts on the pump housing, finally resorted to a variety of gasket sealers, all to no avail. Don't know what else to do. Anyone hear of a problem like this? Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 You tried "anaerobic gasket sealer" and it didnt work??!! I don't know that I've ever heard of that, and on 2 completely different tanks?? Maybe somebody else has heard of it happening and can offer come help, but not this guy... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyoungesq Posted June 27, 2006 Author Share Posted June 27, 2006 You tried "anaerobic gasket sealer" and it didnt work??!! I don't know that I've ever heard of that, and on 2 completely different tanks?? Maybe somebody else has heard of it happening and can offer come help, but not this guy... Mike I gotta say, recollecting all the different gasket sealers tried, I'm pretty sure anaerobic sealer wasn't one of them. On at least one prior attempt, I had drained the tank, applied sealer to surfaces to be bonded, then re-assembled but left tank lid open and finger-tightened the 6 nuts & let set overnight before torquing nuts. Now, I got the tank off again, a new gasket on order (I use a new one for every fresh fix-attempt . . . on about #12 now), and a new idea to try. Thanks for the renewed hope at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porterb123 Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 I have never had mine off or heard of this type of problem. Do the tank and the flange that mounts below have flat matching surfaces? If so, have you checked each surface with a straight edge? I would suspect the outer flange if you have tried two tanks. Where the bolts go, are the areas around each bolt hole flat or are they warped from the bolts being tightened? There have to be surface irregularities between the two parts that is not being sealed by the gasket. Do some close checking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyoungesq Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 I have never had mine off or heard of this type of problem. Do the tank and the flange that mounts below have flat matching surfaces? If so, have you checked each surface with a straight edge? I would suspect the outer flange if you have tried two tanks. Where the bolts go, are the areas around each bolt hole flat or are they warped from the bolts being tightened? There have to be surface irregularities between the two parts that is not being sealed by the gasket. Do some close checking I was told by some buddies at the local dealership that, after the new tank purchase did not fix the problem, they switched the fuel pump from a newer bike for sale on the floor. This led me to belive that I was working with a new tank (confirmed) and new pump for ideal matching of the surfaces. I never actually doubted them, but also never double checked. Maybe they didn't after all . . . I'm headed out to the garage to scrutinize. You may be right. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 You may not want to wait overnight for the stuff to harden before torquing the gasket... That will cause high and low spots. you want to torque it when the stuff's still wet, so it'll fill the voids when you torque it... ALso, how much torque are you using?? DOes the manual say how much it needs? The other times I've seen stuff like this not seal is when it's been over-torqued. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyoungesq Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 You may not want to wait overnight for the stuff to harden before torquing the gasket... That will cause high and low spots. you want to torque it when the stuff's still wet, so it'll fill the voids when you torque it... ALso, how much torque are you using?? DOes the manual say how much it needs? The other times I've seen stuff like this not seal is when it's been over-torqued. Mike On the first few sealant attempts, I didn't wait but rather re-assembled when the stuff got "tacky" and torqued to 9 lbs. When that didn't work, I disassembled and discovered that the sealant was still pretty gooey and hadn't really hardened up. So I tried "stickier" sealant, and then tried letting it go beyond tacky to relatively firm before assembling. Essentially tried many variations in efforts to seal and tried to adhere to mfr. rec. 9 lbs. torque. Light torque b/c it apparently could bend the bolts projecting from welded tabs on the tank or even crack the tank welds (I think). I didn't previously use anaerobic sealant and will try that next. I cannot find any apparent or appreciable warping, bend, or other imperfection in the surfaces being mated that appears to be a problem or that the gasket wouldn't adhere to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyoungesq Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 Happy ending to my saga Just installed a brand spanking new tank with a new pump and new gasket last night and no more leak. In comparing the fit of the pump on the old tank to the fit of the pump on the new tank, it was crystal clear that the tank bolts onto which the pump housing mounts had been WAY overtorqued. The new pump seated snugly and evenly as compared to an ever so slight rocking on the old tank that I had attributed to the pump "skirt" catching on the bolt threads. LESSON LEARNED: When the oem specs call for 9 ft/lbs of torque (very little) on the 6 nuts that hold the fuel pump, there is very good reason. Beware of shop mechanics who are air-gun happy and too lazy to use a hand wrench. Ignoring this torque spec will RUIN your tank. Thanks for all the replies. Even anaerobic sealer wouldn't save the old warped tank. Anyone want the old tank that is in really good shape but for the overtorqued pump bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.