Micron 4-2-1 on '03 FI -- radiator clearance issue and

[exskibum]

I know I've seen it somewhere, but in a nutshell, the FI birds' OEM header pairs 1&4 and 2&3, while the carbed birds' OEM header pairs 1&2 and 3&4 on the downpipes. Akropovic's 4-2-1 follows suit, with different configurations for carbed vs. FI. But Micron 4-2-1 headers all use the original 1&2 and 3&4 pairing. Which I thought raised an issue of radiator clearance on the FI birds that I would swear was once discussed here, but all I found was the Akro discussion.

I'm in the middle of installing the Micron (it's after 1 am, and time to get some sleep) and it looks like the header pipes are going to clear the radiator with nothing actually touching, but that clearance is much closer (maybe only 1/4") than was the case with the OEM headers on both my '97 and '03. Somebody remind me -- just exactly what was the problem? I thought I recalled it being something rubbing. What was the improvised fix and how far out do you need to (and can you) move the bottom of the radiator? Seems to me a quick trip to the machine shop to cut the OEM radiator mount bracket in the middle and weld a piece sistered onto it to make it longer (and maybe angle it up a bit to account for the radial swing forward of the radiator) would do the trick. Didn't someone do something with washers and/or a longer bolt?

If I don't have anything actually making contact, do I need to move the bottom of the radiator forward at all??

All the farkling I did on the FJR this winter, and almost nothing required anything extraordinary. On the XX, I've had to modify damn near everything to make it work this last couple weeks, and I was expecting another such task with the Micron header.

[Guest rockmeupto125]

If nothing hits when you shake or wiggle it, why modify?

[CBRBob]

If nothing hits when you shake or wiggle it, why modify?

Close is ok, as long at it dosent touch it for sure. What you could do inseatd of cutting is a longer bolt with a spacer on the lower mount. That would move it away from the engine block forward to the radiator. Leaving that mount alone.

[exskibum]

Joe -- that was EXACTLY what I was hoping to hear from someone with your mechanical and XX experience. And leaving it alone is likely what I'll do -- IF it really does clear when I have everything in final place.

Bob -- I recalled somebody saying something about a longer bolt when I read about it (last summer maybe?), but assumed that they were referring to bojacking a bolt on the radiator end of the bracket. What you suggested is what looked feasible to me last night when I got in there and was looking for ways to push the rad. forward; looks like I could gain maybe a quarter to half inch pretty easily that way. Gotta go to the hardware store for a bolt to hang the collector anyway (the stock bolt is welded to the front of the can inlet tube), so I might as well grab a longer bolt and washers to give me that little extra space. Easy insurance/alternative for a buck or so, because if I don't buy the bolt, then by the time I get everything together without it, Murphy will surely have found a way to have shit rubbing and touching.

Thanks, guys.

[demon]

I'd space it out if it's closer than 1/4". Headers put out a lot of heat when you have it at WOT. You won't have any cooling issues as the water passes through fairly quickly, but a little clearance is a good thing when it comes to exhaust heat.