yanivic Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 What happens if I just replace the Brake line which activates the center piston in the front with a stock one and connect it to the master cylinder with a longer banjo bolt? Do brakes get over sensitive? same question with the rear, what if I just replace the line which goes to the proportioning valve with another stock one and connect it to the rear caliper where it activates the center piston? Thanks, V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 What happens if I just replace the Brake line which activates the center piston in the front with a stock one and connect it to the master cylinder with a longer banjo bolt? Do brakes get over sensitive? same question with the rear, what if I just replace the line which goes to the proportioning valve with another stock one and connect it to the rear caliper where it activates the center piston? Thanks, V "For every problem there is a solution that is simple, neat and WRONG" Leave them alone or do the Delink the proper way as others have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 What's wrong about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 Hey Rock, if your question is towards me, Not much wrong with it but it is just annoying, I weigh 140 pounds and when ever I brake hard using the lever, the rear end just slides almost, losing control.. it also feels weird braking/correcting before or during taking a corner... I thought, it might be better if I just de-activate the LBS. If you were asking Airborne... that exactly is what, I want to know! I thought the set up should work but just the sensitivity should be of concern, as the same cylinder dia is acting on 6 pistons instead of 4 in the front and 3 instead of 1(or is it 2?) in the rear... Thanks, V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 What happens if I just replace the Brake line which activates the center piston in the front with a stock one and connect it to the master cylinder with a longer banjo bolt? Do brakes get over sensitive? same question with the rear, what if I just replace the line which goes to the proportioning valve with another stock one and connect it to the rear caliper where it activates the center piston? Thanks, V The front master cylinder is designed to provide braking force to 4 pistons, 2 in each caliper, not 6. Will it work maybe, maybe not. I'm not into experimenting with brakes, as they tend to be a very important part of a motorcycle. As far as the rear pedal goes it already goes directly to the center piston of the rear caliper. It also feeds the center piston of the front left caliper and the delay valve which brings in the center piston of the right caliper. As braking force is applied the left caliper pivots up to the secondary master cylinder which activates the outer pistons of the rear caliper. So if you want all 3 pistons working on the rear caliper you have to drill out the caliper to allow fluid to the outer pistons. Of course if you only want the center piston working then all you have to do is plug the line going to the delay valve. If I were going to delink, which I am not going to do, I would follow the instructions that are already posted here. Don't fuck around with doing this half assed. If you're going to do it do it right. Do you have a Honda manual? I have the 97-98 manual and it has a great section in the back that explains how the system works in detail. That's where I'm getting my info from, I'm not sitting here pulling it out of my ass. I would also suggest getting your scrawny ass down to the buffet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=29236 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 Hey Airborne, I didn't mean to offend you nor did I intend to sound that you are just making assumptions! I just wanted to get information regarding the brake sensitivity and so forth. I know it should work (theoritically) but thought some engineers around here might throw some light on the issue, with regards to dynamics ---> Cylinder Dia, brake force, lever travel and so forth! I do not have a manual for the 97-98 bikes but Rock125 was kind enough to send me a link to the Fuel injected bikes which is probably the same, as far as the brakes go and if at all there is a difference it should be a different proportioning valve to make the LBS less intrusive... Anyhow, trying to learn some information is not "fucking" around! and my 'scrawny ass' would never be a fat ass, as I am built smaller (Asian dencent, Indian to be precise...). Thanks for the information, though! Vinay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 Hey Airborne, I didn't mean to offend you nor did I intend to sound that you are just making assumptions! I just wanted to get information regarding the brake sensitivity and so forth. I know it should work (theoritically) but thought some engineers around here might throw some light on the issue, with regards to dynamics ---> Cylinder Dia, brake force, lever travel and so forth! I do not have a manual for the 97-98 bikes but Rock125 was kind enough to send me a link to the Fuel injected bikes which is probably the same, as far as the brakes go and if at all there is a difference it should be a different proportioning valve to make the LBS less intrusive... Anyhow, trying to learn some information is not "fucking" around! and my 'scrawny ass' would never be a fat ass, as I am built smaller (Asian dencent, Indian to be precise...). Thanks for the information, though! Vinay... No offense taken Vinay! It's a topic that's been covered here several times. I just want to get my point across that you shouldn't experiment with things such as brakes. I want everyone here to stay in one piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 Good... I did laugh my ass off, at you advice to take my scrawny ass to the buffet Vinay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 Good... I did laugh my ass off, at you advice to take my scrawny ass to the buffet Vinay. Glad you got a chuckle out of it. Now go get something to eat ya scrawny bastard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 The front master cylinder is designed to provide braking force to 4 pistons, 2 in each caliper, not 6. Will it work maybe, maybe not. I'm not into experimenting with brakes, as they tend to be a very important part of a motorcycle. If I were going to delink, which I am not going to do, I would follow the instructions that are already posted here. Don't fuck around with doing this half assed. If you're going to do it do it right. Do you have a Honda manual? I have the 97-98 manual and it has a great section in the back that explains how the system works in detail. That's where I'm getting my info from, I'm not sitting here pulling it out of my ass. I would also suggest getting your scrawny ass down to the buffet You may have a special master cylinder. My master cylinder is dumber than a box of rocks, and has no clue how many pistons its compressing, what the weather is, or how many calories in a 12 oz Yuengling lager. It does have a consistant bore and stroke, however, and is considered adequate to power the two 6 piston front calipers by people who have done more brake work and delinking than I will ever dream of, even in my wildest nightmares. I'm not really sure what's half-assed about his proposition except that perhaps it doesn't have "Galfer" stamped on it. Yanivic...There's different ways to do this and I don't think many folks have experimented with it. AND...you need to get your scrawny ass down to the buffet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 28, 2006 Author Share Posted May 28, 2006 I talked to my Brother and he said it will work... now, I have to find an extra brakelines (stock) to connect it to the master cyl in the front and a rear line which goes to the rear... Thanks, V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRBob Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 The rear m/c works fine pushing the 3 pistons. The front being 'adequate' means just that, it works but isn't great. You can find many parts from Honda that look the same with a bigger bore or go with something with a separate res. I had a 929 and a 954 m/c setup and used the 929's with the 3/4" bore. It gives a firm lever with good feel and works VERY well if you can handle increased sensitivity. If you want slightly less sensitivity, use a 954 m/c with the 11/16" bore. The lines bolt up correctly, the plug fits but you have to move the cup slightly so you can still see the tach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 31, 2006 Author Share Posted May 31, 2006 Thank you Bob. Is sensitivity directly proportional to Cylinder bore or is it inversly? how is it in relation to the length of piston travel inside the M/C? Thanks, V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRBob Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Thank you Bob. Is sensitivity directly proportional to Cylinder bore or is it inversly? how is it in relation to the length of piston travel inside the M/C? Thanks, V The larger the bore the more fluid you move and the 'harder' the lever will feel. The harder the lever the less feel as you will brake harder with so little lever movement. Being able to almost pin the lever to the grip will give you a broader range of feel but less 'power'. If you use a smaller bore the piston will move farther as well with the lever so if you are looking at bore and stroke, yes large bore/small stroke and the inverse. There is a balance and it is very subjective as to feel. Many people i ride the track with use large bore m/cs and get a lever that barely moves. These are usually the novice riders. What ends up is with less feel they tend to overbrake often. Too soft a lever and you have to move the lever sooo much that the bike reacts slowly but they can modulate the brake force very well. The m/c bore vs. total piston area is where the 'feel' comes into play. Like I said, very subjective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Interesting. :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dion Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Hey V, If you want to try this but don't want to drill, I have a set of front bypass hoses that Redbird gave me and I never used. He gave em to me so they're yours if you want em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted June 1, 2006 Author Share Posted June 1, 2006 Hey V, If you want to try this but don't want to drill, I have a set of front bypass hoses that Redbird gave me and I never used. He gave em to me so they're yours if you want em. Hi Dion, Yes I am going to deactivate the Linked Braking... I think its safer for me with out, especially riding in the rain and so forth. Thanks, V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted June 1, 2006 Author Share Posted June 1, 2006 Thank you, Dion... V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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